Re: The Spazmobile
 

you fail lol

Re: The Spazmobile
 

^ LOL.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the slow boosting is partially due to an exhaust leak I can't seem to get rid of. One of the bolts from the o2 housing to the turbo keeps backing out, I'll get that taken care of again this weekend and see how much that helps.

It's not so much that response is actually decreased, but audibly it takes longer for the piping to fully charge, I'm not really spooling any later. I haven't done an official leak test, but all the ones we heard during testing we fixed, so if it's a leak, it's relatively minor.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

O2 housing being loose shouldn't really cause slow boosting.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

LOL.... i need to get modding ours...

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Eh, if it's anything like my car, when the down pipe came loose (not off) it wouldn't spool as fast and didn't make much boost. At first I started cranking the boost controller up, but it did nothing.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Just remember, I got new tires and new suspension too! :P

Anyway, looking good!

Re: The Spazmobile
 

I suppose it could create a lot of exhaust turbulance which would hurt performance... but I sorta doubt it. More likely it is causing the knock sensor to register knock and pull timing...

Re: The Spazmobile
 

You know what? I think you're right.

But I have another question now... how the fuck does this even happen?

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...z/IMG_8098.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...z/IMG_8104.jpg

The bolt was fine when I put the heat shield on after the o2 housing came loose a few months back...

Anyway, vice grips are a no-go, was trying for 10 minutes, wouldn't budge, is my only option at this point dropping the turbo? I have spare studs, I just need to get this fucker out.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Damn that sucks. Id get rid of those studs anyway and go only bolts. Alot easier to deal with.

The car is shaping up though!

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Car looks nice dude, keep up the good work.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

depeding on how much wiggle rom you have. you could remove the turbo band, the 3 other mani bolts, and the exhaust and just remove the hotside of the turbo. that way you can try and leave the lines

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Actually, that was one of the bolts. I fixed that in my post.

I'm going to see about having a nut welded to the top of it, thoughts on that?

Re: The Spazmobile
 

welding a nut could work, methinks

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Do it right.... Get it removed and get rid of those studs.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Do you recommend anything specific to replace them with?

Re: The Spazmobile
 

take it out and all bolts
I have some good bolts for turbo's I can get you a set just stop by

Re: The Spazmobile
 

A Irwin bolt out would probably get that out without having to drop the turbo. Otherwise welding a nut on would do it.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Brand new OEM bolts and some high heat treated lock washers, thats why I used on my 1g back in the day, never had an issue.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Same thing happened when I upgraded to a t28, for some reason the top broke off. Couldn't get it out with it in the car, but it was easy to get out with the turbo in my hands.

Go with OEM turbo bolts, should be the same as evo ones. I think they are about $5 apiece new but worth it over hardware store stuff.

Re: The Spazmobile
 

Yup, put on new bolts and you won't have any problems.