Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

I have talked to these guys (turns out the be the company that did MAP's sponsored drift 240sx) and I really like what they do. I'll check in with them when they are open. Racecraft thought I was nuts, and I'm waiting on a reply from Vassil. Worst case I just go tubular front end with new strut towers front, and have Patience do a new floor pan along with a roll cage connected to the rear strut towers.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

What are your goals for the car and is a tube chassis needed or wanted?

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Are you sure he wasn't just quoting you on a tubular front suspension/structure and/or roll cage? That seems awfully cheap. You do realize that once you remove the unibody, you have little to no positional references right? This is a massive undertaking to do it right and get all the pickup points dimensionally the same.

If all you want is something rust free, just find another pristine running/driving DSM from down south or something. It will cost you less and be far less hassle and you'll get what you're expecting.

I don't think you realize what this would actually be... a stripped out, loud, harsh, rough, bare bones race car. Even trying to fit all your creature comforts back in there would be ludicrous and difficult. You would NOT want to daily drive it.

Are you sure this is what you really want? I'm seconding Nate on this.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Eric's car (green 240) was far more than $6k to tube chassis.

I agree with single. I don't think you know what you're asking for. My caged and back-halved 1g was ridiculous. Just getting in and out of it sucked hard. Too loud for the street, absolutely zero creature comforts and #becauseracecar problems left and right.

My 10pt caged / not back-halved 1g was ok on the street but not even close to something I would want to DD. Again, did have #becauseracecar issues because of a billet stall on the freeway. In all honesty, the only time I took it out was when I knew for sure something special was out. I'd scout first with my DD.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Just buy Buschur's 1G race car he is selling for $25k.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

If you are willing to wait. There is a sick part out that is going to happen in about two months.

And there is a shell with a 10pt cage, freshly painted engine bay and exterior.

That will be part of it and it retains full interior. I actually contemplated selling my eclipse and just buying his out right. But he cant wait till next year when id have the difference in cash.

It'll be posted on ecmlink car makes around 700hp

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

I wonder if what he's actually talking about is a caged chassis... and not a tube frame car.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

If I had space and time it would be a fun project. Good luck.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

After much research on why you guys are right on tube framed cars, I have been looking into a tubed chassis with a full cage and front and rear sections if possible. I have talked to a few more fabricators I knew from the off-road world and have decided the money and mostly time going into full tubular would never pay off and since most sections of our chassis can be fixed or modified without using tubular designs that gives me more confidence. Wanting it to be daily drive able if I needed, but also safe for the occasional event, all while trying to prevent chassis decay, is a hard target to hit.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

As others have asked. What are you trying to achieve, prevent or are worried about?

For daily driving, you should just do a cage in a normal chassis car, with swingouts. There is no need to do all you are talking about, if corrosion is your worry. Everything can be fixed or replaced for cheaper than what you are proposing.

None of this will "pay off" in any sense of the meanings, so not sure what you mean by that comment above.

Back to the original question, what do you think all this will achieve? What are you trying to achieve? Answering this clearly will help us all give you sound advice.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Frankly I plan on traveling to several tracks throughout the country as I start to perfect sections of the car. I will start with BIR, Road America, Indianapolis, and possibly some tracks in GA and FL. I have family all over the country and would love to eventually travel more with my car not just a couple hours here or there to a local event. I have over 10,000 miles on a built setup from DD and small trips here and there and I know that in order to truly make the car ready for anything, the chassis would be best modified to allow some serviceability and versatility.

Front end:
-More open to allow better routing of cooling devices and cooling airflow in general
-Lighter
-Stiffer
-Easier mounting of aero/performance accessories like splitters, intercooler, etc
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust

Rear end:
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust
-Lighter
-Stiffer

Main chassis:
-Lighter
-Stiffer
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust
-Ability to mount additional safety gear like harnesses and lower seating front and rear
-Allow for easier wiring routing


I saw that I am drooling.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Sounds like you want a cage, along with tubular front and rear subframes.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

I would even suggest subtracting tubular front and rear subframes. Just get a clean southern car and have a cage added by bulfab, etc. Do maintenance on it, get it in good running condition, add necessary upgrades for tracking the car, and go have fun. I am basically currently doing exactly that with a new racecar for WRL/Chumpcar. LMK if you want help or advice.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

This the route you should go. All the rest will likely make life with the car worse in the end. Don't over complicaten what isn't needed. Build it this way, try it out, and mod IF needed. Don't create more items to fine tune before you even start going more harcore.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Yes exactly.

I appreciate the input from you both and frankly will strongly consider doing just the roll cage first and cleaning up the rest of the car as best as possible and go from there. I look forward to mainly the safety, strength, and rigidity of a cage anyway so I feel it's money well spent in the grand scheme of chassis modifications.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

FYI - driving a caged car without a helmet is actually more dangerous than driving a non-caged car without a helmet. Lots of metal to bash your coconut on.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Very good point.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Rust is not an issue in a car driven only in the summer. I've never had even a spot on mine.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

same with my spyder. but then it sat for 11years apart lol. I did put winter rims and tires on it this year and it never left the garage

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Same with my old 1g. Nevada / AZ car, and I kept it out of the snow. Best way to do it if you're looking to get and maintain clean shell in my opinion.