Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

The stock O2 location is too close to the turbo for a wideband. The best value for use with a laptop or system like the DSMLink is the Innovate LC-1.

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

Or you could get the PLX M-250, that doesn't have the display on it. You would then have the reading only through DSMLink or other logging software. I bought the M-300 and that is the same but has a seperate display so I can see my AFR just by looking down.


PS if you plan on running race fuel to dyno, don't, Ron won't let anyone dyno with race fuel and use their wideband. At least that is the way it was last year.

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

Thanks out again for the great info to you both!

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

Check this out!

The M-300 Controller come with two analog outputs, linear wideband and narrowband. Our linear wideband output gives you the freedom to interface with a number of tuning devices, such as data loggers, piggy back fuel systems and stand alone engine management systems. With the narrowband output you are able to completely replace your stock narrowband sensor and "feed" our analog signal directly into your ECU. This eliminates the hassle of welding a second sensor bung on your down pipe. Your ECU will "think" that your narrowband sensor is still there while you're measuring wideband information at the same time!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PLX-D...spagenameZWD1V


Sounds like this is the shit for $300.00 including the display! And it REPLACES the regular O2 sensor??? Now all I need is the $300.00!....:->

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

Honestly, if you are able to hit 20 psi, you probly do not have that many holes in the system. I have had it where I couldn't build more than 10 or so on the turbo. I wouldn't mess with the TB. Just get a new BISS oring at your local hardware store. Check the core and pipes and call it a day. With how your tune sounds, it sounds as if you have a huge leak but I cannot see why you are able to hit 20 psi though...

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

That's the exact one I use. I just replaced the stock sensor with the WB and used the narrowband simulator to go back to the ECU and then used the wideband output to log to DSMLink. The nice thing about the PLX system is that it uses the VW style Bosch sensor which is right around 40-60 dollars to replace when it goes bad, as opposed to some of the other sensors that go into the hundreds to replace.

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

I have been able to make over 30psi and hold it with a large crack hole in my intercooler, it did make it much laggier and lose a 100 HP though.

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

The real issue here is not nessesarly the leaks at the TB, and Injectors, it's WHY all of a sudden is the car slower and DSMLINK shows that I'm running so lean , 18/1 and the car is even slower?

This changed with ONLY the swapout of new small 20G and a install of a FMIC?

It would make sense that I have a large boost leak, that is causing the "false estimations" from DSMLINK right?

Guess the smartest thing is to nail down as many of the leaks as possible, and get on a wideband?....Or???

Also can you buy the M-300 unit without the display, and just dump the signal off to your DSMLINK?

And do you need another seperate "module" to make that M-300 WB O2 sensor work in narrow band mode?

What would you guys think between spending the $200-300 for a wideband unit or $100-200 for some time at the RS's AWD dyno/WB?

I know I should be getting both but, my DSM budget and my wifes tolerance is running pretty lean as of late.......;->

Or does Elite have a portable WB unit so Shane could just help me street tune and diagnose this pig, for a price of coarse?

Agian a Thank you both for the solid information!

Someday I'd like to get this A/T slug into the 13's!

If I had all the $ I put into this damm 2G A/T car, put into a 1G M/T, bet I'd be close to the 11's by now!

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

As I mentioned above, the M-250 is the same thing as an M-300 but without the display, they run 249 from Mach V motorsports. And not nothing is required to make it seem like a narrowband O2 to your ECU, just got cut and tap into some wiring at the ECU and then you are done. Easier than installing an AFC.

If I remember RS Motors wideband for their dyno is one that only would go into an existing bung, unlike Elite's where it just goes into the tailpipe. Therefore you would either have to weld an additional bung in, or if you don't have your rear sensor anymore and still have an open bung you could do that.

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

Just replaced all the injector seals, man the old ones were totally crap! Took it her out for a run and it is much better than before! Still need to look at the DSMLIMK readings, but my alternator is toast so gotta find a good one somewhere before I can test any further. Please PM me if you know where I can get a descent one for a 2G auto?

Thx......

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

Anyone know just how does the PLX M250 interface with the DSMLINK?


TIA....

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

Well you would use one of your unused inputs to hook up to the output from the PLX. I don't know what the unused inputs are on a 2G, I think MAP, BARO(Only if you use lock BARO or a GM MAF), EGR Temp, or the Rear O2, I think those are the available ones. A quick search of the DSMlink forums would yield the answer you are looking for. It doesn't need to be specific for the 250, the 300 would work too, so if you find a thread that says 300 it hooks up the same, just because I have seen a few threads for the 300 on there recently.

Edit:
After looking, this thread has some good info for all the inputs that are available on a 2G:
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showth...ight=2G+Inputs

Re: What is a "REAL" boost leak test?
 

The PLX M-300 should be here Friday, hope to have it all setup and tuned up better for the cookout!

Thanks for your help!