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Re: whats up
Welcome to Mitsu Style. With your setup I would install a FMIC and ARP head studs then port the turbo or try a LIPP cast o2 housing that we sell to fix the boost creep. Then turn it up to 20-21psi and it should make good power, then if thats not enough buy DSM link and try E-85 to max out the 16g.
~John |
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+1 (again woot JET), you should be able to turn your boost up to, say 16psi, and then it will rise up to 19psi by redline from the boost creep. You should then also be able to set your boost at 19psi, and it will not rise much if any by redline. If this is not the case, something else might be amiss...weird MBC or something?
I love the LIPP housing that LSE sells, it is awesome and I highly recommend it. On the same note, might be $$ more well spent on porting and DSMLink, so you can run E85 next summer :D |
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Just porting would cure the creep, or you can port the turbo and put the LIPP on to stop it. Link won't do anything for creep, he was talking about running E85.
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i really want dsm link.. i already have a laptop that i just got like a week ago and i really want 272 cams!! i just cant make up my mind on what im REALLY gonna do next??? if what you say about the 16g being good for some power then i might stick with it for now but i really want to hit 300awhp by next summer :) |
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SAFC should be fine for a 16g. I would do cams next.
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The only problem with running E85 is that there is no gas station around us that sells it. The closest one is on lexington and 35E or on 96 in whitebear. I wanted to go to E85 but noone sells it. Do you know if the gas station at the end of ware rd sells it?
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Cuz I want to run it REALLY bad. They need to sell it somewhere around here damnit!!!!
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i went to the dealership and they put a new IAC motor in my car and they set it at 750rpm's and i really dont like its too low so i try to turn it up but even if i do a little at a time the computer resets it back to 750 and i wanna run about 850 or 900 at idle.... |
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:lol: |
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Higher octane. You can run higher boost, only bad part is you use alot more fuel.
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Yep, cheap and you can run almost 30 psi on it.
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wow ok well thats something new that i learned today.. thanks for that input
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its not like its something i need just what i want!! ha ha |
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I would stick with pump gas, don't go to E-85 yet, plus isn't E-70 now? RETUNE!
You would need to upgrade the injectors again because the 680cc would get maxed out. You are set up with a good S-AFC and injectors. Leave the system alone for right now. Look at fixing your creep (but with those injectors you can let it creep up to 18-19 psi and be fine if it does), upgrading to a FMIC, Cams, ARP, list will go on..... Plus if you are thinking about switching to a 6 bolt block, save the money for that. I might have one available coming this spring, once I remove it from my car. |
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base idle set screw.
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swap the engine yourself. save yourself the money. blageo23 has a ton of experience and wouldnt mind helping. you should check out his car in person...
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Most of the time it is an overall exhaust flow issue. The wastegate is getting choaked/can't bypass enough, so most of the time you have to start the boost lower than you'd like so you don't end up overshooting. Severe boost creep (like this car has) nearly makes the damm car nearly supercharged, increase in rpm is an increase of boost, and it says linear* when you are running into a flow restriction. * It is not directly linear as you run out of compressor efficiency, but with his car it was shooting for 20+psi easily, something I didn't want to do on a smic w/o timing control on a 16g. Welcome to the forums, glad you figured it out! |
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Then again maybe I am wrong, I only tune cars for a living and have set the boost on a 500+ of them by now... He was having a boost control issue, aka his wastegate wasn't flowing, aka he needed to address it with the ability to flow more air. If you give the compressor wheel a running start (aka more boost down low/allowing the wastegate to remain closed longer) why WOULDN'T it go higher? Again, Justin, I understand what you are saying, but his car was going higher on its own will, its a pretty common problem actually, something I get to deal with on 1/2 the dsms I work with. Unless we have a proper wastegate on it (or a good boost leak) the car will build 20+psi by redline easily, yes it will hold, but that overall boost spike will continue to rise until you run out of efficiency.
I really doubt we would tell a customer to keep the boost down for shits and giggles... |
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Welcome again, darn winter now we will fight untill spring....
Here is a car that did the same thing, we did head studs and a AFPR and now its fine running that much boost. http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/4...reepgj1.th.png ~John |
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So how do you like the forum so far? ~John |
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Tuning can obviously change boost creep also. If you tune for more power (at the point boost creep starts) then even more exhaust will go through the exhaust and make the boost creep worse. Try only turning up the boost on a car once, I bet it doesn't go higher for boost creep. I was fighting this with my car for a while, those were the first turbo's I ported. I was logging on my AEM and the boost creep did not get worse when I turned up the boost. I have seen the same results first hand with probably a dozen cars, several are members on here.
I would like to hear Shane or Mo chime in on the subject. LSE boys, don't take my posts the wrong way. Technical banter on here doesn't come around often, so this is interesting. I am not trying to bash you guys or anything. What you are saying is the opposite of my 1st hand experience and the opposite of the physics I can come up with on the subject. |
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I've seen it go both ways. On cars with big exhaust (3" all the way or similar) and stock waist gates it tends to be the higher you set it, the higher it creeps type situation. Josh's $800 Talon worked this way when we put the exhaust on it. Crept like a mofo till we did something to fix it (ported turbo, or external dump, I forgot what we did)
We had an Audi in here that was similar, it would creep to ~21 on straight WG setting, with the inital at 18 it would creep to 24, about all they wanted to run. My GVR4 had a 14B, with an external dump O2 housing, it would boost creep if it was "cold" outside (50F) with the boost low, but not when it was warm (65-70). I could also just set it higher and not have issues, but this is when I first got it running so I wan't comfortable with it yet. It seems to me, On cars where the creep goes away when you turn it up, the WG itself isn’t big enough. On cars where it creeps higher the higher you set it, there is a WG flow path issue. |
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~John |
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My thoughts exactly he has to work the wastegate housing by increaseing the size of the bypass OR a higher tension spring. BUT is is a flow related restriction, so if we turn the boost up down low, it will continue to creep as the wastegate isn't displacing enough air. I have seen this in HUNDREDS of cars. You can starve off a creep by tuning ignition timing, having the boost come on lazy, or decreasing wastegate force up top (ebc applications only). On this setup, he should just port the turbine housing/upgrade the 02 and call it done. That is my point is he can't just set it to 15 and expect it to stop at 19, it doesn't work like that. |
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ok to all of you.. you all have very good points of view and when it comes down to it i think the turbo being ported and a diff o2 housing is in order for me, plus i think im going to do a fuel pressure regulator
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MAP is having a special on FPR. Buy it now!
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