Timing belt jobs run $200 from a shop and considerably less from friends who have done it. I really think you would be able to do it yourself as many times as you have seen it done. It isn't that difficult and is one of those things that you really should learn if you stay into these cars. Pay Ryan to teach you instead of doing it for you, it would be money well spent. Just a thought. At any rate, good luck with it.

Everytime I have it done I'm like I'll pay you to teach me. but in the end Ryan or John just end up doing it. (cause I'm blonde and don't catch on to quickly) :stick:


But you're right I do need to learn - as many times as I'm in there fixing things.

I'm just a fraid of getting it wrong and messing up my head. it's just one of those things where it isn't a bolt on. And there's actually something at stake if you mess up.

And don't get me wrong I can tear that side of the motor apart pretty easily now.

It's putting it back together that I'm worried about.

i did it myself on my car.... now true it did squeal like a $5 hooker.. but it worked for the 15K miles and we almost couldn't get off some of the tensioners since they were soo tight..

keyword is good torq wrechs and light hand..

-E

We'll see what kind of mood I get into.

If we take the pan off and nothing is out of place. then I'll see if I can find someone to tow it home, and then I'll tear it apart at the house.

Chris, (dsmpartsguru)

How much is a new oil pump/water pump for my car?

1995 GSX

If I'm going in anyways I might as well replace both. Just looking to see what all I need to come up with if it turns out to be the pump.

Brian - why dont you just give him a call? It would be much faster and he wouldnt have to look it up come on here and type it down and all..

isn't oil pump part of the front case? because if it is oil pump it probably took the front case with it.. so i'd say somewhere around 160 for that and another 50 or so for the water pump..

-E

Thanks E for at least a general idea.

Brian, I have all of the timing belt tools at the house. We can do it there. I was going to get an oil pump/case and it was $256 with the 2 gaskets. Lets pull it apart and see what it looks like before you order anything.

6bolt swap, I have a block, crank, oil pump, head, etc. jk you should get it figured out.

~John

As long as we are on that subject, built 2.4 6bolt :bounce: You could join the club. There are a bunch of em out there now.

Brian, I can teach you how to do the timing belt any weekend if you want.

Craig

I'll just keep this motor till it blows. Then I'll build the 2.4.

But until then I'm going to stick with the problem at hand.

Well found out a few things.

1)1996 GS-T and 1995 GSX Oil pans are a little bit Differenct in Sum Respects but in general can be considered the same

2) Oil pick ups between the 1996 and 1995 are different. the 1996 GS-T pick up is about 1.5 inch's longer then the 1995 GSX

3)The Oil Pick up wasn't the problem. We're moving on to the Oil pump. I have my Oil pump from my 1995 GSX hopefully they are the same, john checked it out and said it's fine.
If we find that the oil pump failed and the metal that was in my oil pan is from the pump that it went through the motor and that could be why I have a vibration in my pedals now at idle which I didn't have before which could mean my motor is trashed, If that's the case then I'm done for probably the next 2 years.

Good luck, i hope thats not the case..

but if it is, guess what that means ??

that means you get to take your car apart ;) .. put it up on the stands.. sand all the rust off it and remove all dents.. primer it and get it all nice and painted!!! lots of details can be done over time and missded when you are in a hurry.. Just think how clean that car will be in two years ;)
And that won't cost you much, maybe max few hundred for the supplies..

-E

I doubt you'll be able to last 2 years without your car Brian, unless you're in South Carolina.

If I'm in South Carolina I'd want it up ASAP. - above 50degree's year round.

road Coarse larger then BIR, and a 1/4 Track less then 10 minutes from where we're trying to move to.

Hopefully today I'll get things figured out.

What road course is bigger than BIR down there?

Hopefully it is just the oil pump Brian. That isn't too terrible to change out.

Well I'm hoping it's just the oil pump. However I have a vibration in my pedals now. I don't know if it's from no oil in the head.

Or if something happened when the oil pump went. - the metal shavings, etc in the oil pump have me scared, I'm starting to think they might have gone through the motor.

In which case who knows what else is in the motor. I'll probably have to tear it apart just to make sure.

-brian

Replace the oil pump and run her 'til she dies! It's a 7 bolt for gods sake!

Well believe me that's my plan. But if the motors shot it shot.

Before we tear the motor apart I'd like to do a Compression test to see where it's at.

if there's no compression would there be any point to tearing the motor apart?


If the compressions still decent then - we'll test the oil pump, and/or swap out the oil pump. I have the spare one so it's not like it'll cost me anything.

I'm just looking to last till winter (novemberish) - then I can take the winter to figure something else out.

Ok yesterday the oil pump was spun with a drill but Nothing was happening.

There was no grinding sounds, or anything. But the oil also wasn't being pumped?

So what does that mean? is the pump blown or is the system not "Primed" so to speak?


Compression test was done before taking things apart:

(I forget the exact numbers but they were something like this)

142-160-185-152

Not the greatest but hopefully still able to get me around till winter.

Anyways what are your guys opinions on what's going on? today I was going to have the oil pump replaced. But do you think there is anything else it could be?

140-165-180-165

~John

Thanks, I couldn't remember.

-brian

loosing a bit of compression there.. .. maybe its getting too lean in that cylinder.. check your plug and or injector..

_E

Injectors are brand new, and plugs are changed basically every 2-3 weeks.

(in this case they are brand new since my cars only run for 2 weeks, and we swapped them out on the Dyno)

Have a few replies from the guys on DSMLINK.com


1)
I wouldn't start the motor again....

How did you spin the pump with a drill? You have the timing belt off right? I would use the drill method to get oil flowing before trying to start the thing again...

Pull the feed line from the turbo (it's off the filter housing right) and try spinning the pump again? See if you get any oil.

You may also want to try taking off the pick up agian, making sure it is not some gasket problem or something. Also putting some grease on the oil pump gears, trying to pack it like you do when you assemble the oil pump on the front case would not be a bad idea. This would aid in suction...


__________________
Joe Riggieri
96 GSX 11.3@125.7


2)
Did you change the oil filter? I vaguely remember something about Fram or someone having a problem where they shipped some filters that were missing holes necessary for oil flow.

DaveMertz



3)
You should be able to hear the drill "load up" as oil starts to flow as well.

Definitely do not start the car again until you resolve the issue.

You can use a vaccum pump to prime the motor from the filter housing if you don't feel like pulling off the front case to grease up the gears. The gears should still be plenty wet though with oil which is what is baffling....

rich


__________________
93 AWD
10.70@138.4



4)
I used rich's method as well as priming the oil pump with a gear. Pump it through the oil pressure sender via a clear hose and a hose barb.

Put 2 quarts into the pan via the normal method, and pump 3 quarts via a fluid pump.

You should see oil coming out of the rocker arms. Pull plugs + mpi fuse (or turn fuel pump off) and dry crank the car until you see oil flowing through the rockers and until the dummy light on the dash goes off. Do this a few times, but it only took me what sounded like 3-4 rotations of the crank before I had oil pumping nicely and light to go off.

-Tony Turk

Ya there is no problem between the pump and the pan, the drill did not have any load on it at all, and there was no sign of oil flow anywhere in the head atleast. And it would come from the HLA's over the camfollowers, we do not have rockers.

~John

Well Over the weekend, John worked some magic and got my car back together and running better then ever.

The Funniest, and weirdest thing however was that for no reason what so ever the oil pump started working just fine. It was as if nothing ever happened.

All he did was pull off the oil feed line to the turbo from the oil filter houseing.

Crank over the oil pump with my impact gun, and Oil started flying out, which proved that the oil pump was working and at least oiling the block.

So we moved onto the head. - Pulled the Valve cover off Cranked over the oil pump with the impact gun.

And Oil started spraying out of the head. As if nothing was wrong.

So he put everything back together and we fired it up, oil light went off right away, and the oil pressure came up.

One things I've noticed now is that when I first start the car the oil pressure builds up slower then usual. But when it builds up it has a little more oil pressure then usual.

Since the weather was so nice yesterday I spent a good part of the day driving around. And she's back up and running like a champ.

As for the internal Dump - the Turbo is spooling a lot faster now then it did with it to atmosphere. Not sure why but the power comes on a lot quicker.

And although we didn't finish welding the dump tube all the way around 1 of the flanges the sound is still much much much much, nicer then the external dump, and so pieceful.

As for lbs/min - I haven't turned the boost back up to 22psi yet. But I'm sitting at about 20psi and I'm seeing 48lbs/min.

turbo still acts the same holds 20psi and then creeps at 7200 up to 25psi by the time I hit 8,000rpms.

Just wanted to share this weird experience. Not sure why the oil pump started working, etc. maybe it's just John's Pressence that scared it into working. Since John's the only person I have really let work on my car in a very long time.

Or maybe it needed some care from my trailer!?

-E

just a thought? maybe the bypass spring stuck or cot caught up? then weh nyou removed stuff / or the e ride jared it loose?

chris

e-ride fixes things.. hurry up and schedule yours!!!

-E

Well what ever it was. I glad things turned out ok. I was expeciting my motor to be shot, with the metal in the oil pan.

And I was thinking I wouldn't have my car back for another year. :headache:

But I'll say this I'm going to start to be much gentler on my car. I haven't launched it yet with the new set up.

And I haven't NLTS yet. I've been doing things gradual. 1 gear pulls, easy shifts, etc.


Another thing I forgot to mention is I put in a 170 degree thermostat and so far it's looking like it solved my temp issues.

At the high points my temps only reach 206.

Most of the time they sit right at about 196.

Used to be even if I was just cruising into work my temps would reach 216-220.

Its cold outside thats the only reason your temps arent up there yet.

outside temps actually have nothing to do with it.


My car always runs hot. Even in winter. (yes I take it out if the roads are clear/clean)


I know they'll go up a little but for normal cruising temps - being

185-196 (that's awesome)
WOT Temps only reaching 206 after back to back pulls is also awesome.

For my car that is.... Hopefully temps will get back up into the 80 sometimes soon where I can do comparisons.