Originally Posted by MustGoFaster (Post 253034)

What are you guys speculating (Shane, Mo, Swanny) about? Pre ignition causing the valve to snap and dominate the shit out of everything it can? Seems relatively obvious to me that is was a random valve failure. Even more so after what he just posted.

Originally Posted by MustGoFaster (Post 253034)

What are you guys speculating (Shane, Mo, Swanny) about? Pre ignition causing the valve to snap and dominate the shit out of everything it can? Seems relatively obvious to me that this was a random valve failure. Even more so after what he just posted.

Originally Posted by niterydr (Post 253084)

Tough break Brandon.

Originally Posted by Halon (Post 253081)

I wouldn't think at 1/4 throttle, 3-4k RPM's, rush hour on Central kind of driving conditions, that my motor would detonate enough to cause something like this.

Originally Posted by ecoli (Post 253093)

It's hard to tell from the pictures. I can't tell, if all that damage is from a shit load off beating from the valve or if that's melted alum from pre-ignition. Maybe it's obvious in person. I have only seen stock valves fail when a piston hit them from a broken timing belt or whatever and there usually isn't that wide spread of damage even with a broken valve in there, but usually when a timing belt breaks, the motor stops running pretty quick versus Halon's that might have kept running longer with the other 3 cylinders still fine.

My reasons for thinking pre-ignition was the hole in the center of the piston, which is a sign of it. What looks like melted alum all over the piston, head and spark plug, which can be pre-ign, but maybe it's just beat up metal and not melted. A melted valve that fell off, which can be from pre-ign. And I was thinking that maybe the pre-ign started and first thing to start melting was the spark plug, which caused the tach to start going wierd once the electrode melted to the ground strap, then things keep heating up and the valve and/or the piston failed soon after.

Regardless, I would get the fuel injectors tested before putting them in a new motor.

Originally Posted by ecoli (Post 253097)

Pre-ignition and detonation are two different things. Often them come hand in hand though with bad detonation causing pre-ignition to occur. But you can have a pre-ignition failure caused by something else.

Originally Posted by Halon (Post 252993)

... they start as 2 pieces and are then fused together some how to create a single valve..

Originally Posted by Halon (Post 253169)

Big thanks to Brian for lending a helping hand for a little bit today. Got the oil pan off and the piston/rod out. There were some larger chunks in the oil pan, that's for sure. Also, we found what we believe is a broken off Oil Squirter laying in the oil pan as well. How many oil squirters are there supposed to be on each cylinder? We're unsure where it came from exactly.

Steve, where is the honing tool that you have? I could stop by your shop tomorrow and maybe grab it if you're going to have it there. The knicks in the cylinder are definately there, but I'd like to try and just hone it and see how it turns out.

Also I think we decided that I will be replacing all the rod bearings. I currently had King bearings in there, not sure what I'll use this time around.

Originally Posted by ecoli (Post 253294)

Will the piston be given away as a door prize at the cookout? :)

Originally Posted by EclipseGST (Post 261725)

1. Yes, I would highly suggest using new bearings. You're already in there and I dont think you can just buy bearings for 1 rod, so might as well replace them all. I use "Lubriplate" assembly grease. Comes in a white bottle with a blue cap. Lube the side that touches the crank ONLY. If you lube the other side, chances are the bearing with spin. Make sure you clean them up really well before installing. Even though they are packaged good, they can still have dirt on them. Basically by cleaning them up you are inspecting them for any defects or damages.

Plasti-gauge is pretty simple. Find out the factory clearance, get the correct plasti-gauge, assemble the crank/rods/block DRY. DO NOT... READ: DO FUCKING NOT turn the crank over dry. I'm guessing you are replacing the main bearings too? Or is the crank still bolted into the block, untouched? Disassemble and check the plasti-gauge with the gauge on the packaging that it comes in. I'm sure it will be in spec. If not, measure the bearings seeing those are the easiest to fuck up, then check crank journal and rod journal sizes. Go from there.

2. Use ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Put some on a non-dust/lint rag/towel and wipe out the cylinders for any dirt/debris. Coat the entire piston in ATF, rings and all. I usually cut a QT bottle in half and dunk the whole piston in, rings and all while attached to the rod and the rod is sticking out of the container. Lube up all 4 as its much easier to work with it even though the other 3 are used. It doesnt hurt anything, just makes things much easier and better safe then sorry.

3. Are you putting the piston on the rod yourself? Minor lube on the pin will help, DO NOT force the pin into the piston/rod with a hammer or any other type of tooling. Easiest way I found was throw the pin in the freezer for 20mins, then heat the rod slightly with a torch, dont get it red, just warm. Put the pin lock rings in one side of the piston, when the rod is ready, the pin should slip right in and sit against the lock ring, then just put the lock rings in the other side and you should be good to go. Just make sure there isnt much side to side play and the piston/rod move freely. Compare to the 3 used ones.

Disclaimer: This is just part of my methods/techniques, they are my opinion, some have different ways of doing things. I'm not saying these ways are the only or best way of doing it. I just found it to be the way I am most comfortable with. Take them as you wish. Good luck!