Re: joel's build
 

Nice work!

Re: joel's build
 

Compliments from GH? You must be doing something right haha

Btw great job man

Re: joel's build
 

Kick ass man!

Re: joel's build
 

Well it was short lived... there is a odd sound coming from the engin bay, and when I press in the clutch it goes away. This will be a fun one to try and hunt down.

Re: joel's build
 

Loose flywheel. What kind of noise is it?

Re: joel's build
 

Turbotalon!?!?!?! Remember when you and Jim came up cause I thought it was blown up. Fixed the tune and could hear sloppiness in the trans and my throw out bearing was toast! Sounds like that.

I stopped over there for a minute and it sounds awesome running when pressure is applied to the pedal (alot of play in the pedal up top).

Our thoughts were in it got bled and adjusted it would hopefully make the noise stop. We will have to see. Worst case scenerio throw out bearing or flywheel bolts.

He used the arp flywheel bolts that Map sells. (Celica kit). I've heard that sometimes they don't go all the way in so maybe :news:

Another note is he said it worked fine until he got to Acapulco in Blaine 15 mins or so of driving then the noise started. So to me it sound like a bleed and adjustment away from being good to go. Crossing fingers.

Re: joel's build
 

pressure plate rattling some too?

Re: joel's build
 

clunking clanky kind of business.

Sounds like broken rod but in the trans.

Re: joel's build
 

Thanks for explaining it you said it a lot betting than I could. My thought is that there might be air in the line and it isn't disengaging the clutch all the way. There is a large dead spot at the top of the pedal.

Just watched this video on how to adjust the clutch so we will see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw

Re: joel's build
 

Did you gob the shit out of red loctite on the flywheel bolts?

That's what my bet is on.

Re: joel's build
 

^^^ shouldn't that noise still be present though even when slightly engaging the clutch? As soon as you get past the dead spot in the pedal the noise goes away.

Re: joel's build
 

Yes I did. And put them in at 110 ft pounds. My guess is if my flywheel was loose I would feel it in the pedal.

Re: joel's build
 

To be honest its seems to be just like this, and his ended up being the flywheel. witch is weird because mine worked perfect last year. If you watch the video in this link it sounds kinda like that.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238691

Re: joel's build
 

You shouldn't feel anything in the pedal if its the fw bolts. If they're only a little backed out, the noise should go away when you disengage the clutch. If they're backed out a lot, the noise should be present all the time.

Of there's a dead spot, there might be air in the line, but that shouldn't stop it from disengaging. Only engaging.

Re: joel's build
 

But I can only diagnose so much through a computer. You know what you're doing, Nick. Check the easy stuff first.

Re: joel's build
 

After reading up on the arp extended lengths what if they bottomed out on the crankshaft? And actualy didnt stop at the flywheel. It says to use a automatic spacer plate or cut them down some. The disclaimer is right on maps website under description.

Re: joel's build
 

I could see that happening. But that would lead to them backing out. Because the head holds the torque.

Also, were the bolts step tightened like headstuds? And was the crank bottom tapped?

May have just toasted a set of ARPs. I've never had trouble with OEMs, honestly.

Re: joel's build
 

The crank was not bottom taped. But I did tighten in increments of 20 lbs starting at 50 up to 110lbs.

Re: joel's build
 

Did you torque the pressure plate? If its not evenly torqued it won't disengage correctly and will make all airts of fun noises when you try.

Re: joel's build
 

Pull off trans go from there.

Flywheel/PP issue, sounds like those fancy ARP things you used.

Re: joel's build
 

What was the reason for using the extended bolts? Aluminum flywheel? I know some people using an aluminum flywheel use them because of the smaller thickness of the bolt surface. Some use extended bolts with the auto spacer plate, some just use regular length OEM bolts. Both methods seem to work fine, but I have heard of the extended ones bottoming out on some cranks, especially without the spacer plate.


Anyone doing their own work deserves some sort of pat on the back. Not something 90% of you evo guys would know about though. ;)

Re: joel's build
 

Orderd the studs not knowing they. Where longer. They where about a 1/4" longer at the most. And when the flywheel was attached to the crank I used a screwdriver to determine how deep the flywheel and crank hole is. And it was deeper then the bolt is long. We will have to see going to mess with it tonight.

Re: joel's build
 

Yea, I think they are 3-4mm longer IIRC

Re: joel's build
 

Trans is going to come out tonight to find out what the issue is. I hope ot is easy to see what was going on in there.

Re: joel's build
 

Glad im in that 10% then

Re: joel's build
 

:lol: right.

Re: joel's build
 

I oughtta smack a hoe. lol...I actually do you homo. Aside from clutch jobs and tuning.

Re: joel's build
 

Well got a lot done today. trans got pulled and the flywheel studs where the issue. there was about 1/16" of play. The flywheel looked fine because It was only on for about 15 miles at max.

So Cornfed2.4 helped me get the trans back on with some oem flywheel bolts.

Tomorrow I need to install the intercooler piping, cross member, and exhaust.
Go get some gear lube for the trans, and it should be good to go.

Re: joel's build
 

Good to hear it was something simple.

Re: joel's build
 

It's close!

Re: joel's build
 

Well got it all back together. it was a pain in the ass today seemed like nothing wanted to be nice. couldn't get the cat back attached and got tired of trying so ripped it off. So I was already frustrated. Took it out for a short test drive, and now it wont idle down when I push in the clutch. So I called it quits.

Re: joel's build
 

Taking a break when things start getting frustrating is a good idea. Glad you got it figured out man.

Re: joel's build
 

Did the idle switch get unplugged?

Re: joel's build
 

^^ I asked last night. Not sure if he checked it today yet or not.

Re: joel's build
 

Well some good news. I think the computer just needed to learn how to idle. Its running good. Now I dont know if I want to run strate 3" out the back or put the muffler back on.

Re: joel's build
 

Car seems to be running strong. The only issue I am having is it's still running worm on the highway. I am guessing I need some sort of air dam to force air into the radiator. Or find a way to make more negative pressure behind the radiator.

I set up a tune date for the 29th of this month so I am hoping the new turbo will make it here in time to install.

Re: joel's build
 

Get some of that becool radiator treatment. I had a car that ran warm and after I put that in it ran at less 10 degrees cooler

Re: joel's build
 

I don't have a aftermarket temp gauge so its hard to tell off the stock one. But at idle it sits right in the middle. And on the highway it sits at the top of the flag. Ill have to have shane tell me what it is running at on the dyno.

Re: joel's build
 

Maybe you need to burp the cooling system

Re: joel's build
 

Tried that today by letting it run for about 15 min with the radiator cap off. Got a few small bubbles out of it but nothing crazy. drove it for about a half hour and it still runs around the same temp. I am going to just wait till Shane hooks up the computer and gets a temp reading instead of guessing on the stock gauge.