MitsuStyle - Project Lex

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- Project Talk (http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=5)

- - Project Lex (http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28018)

Quote:

Originally Posted by b00sted_spyder (Post 418156)

If you need a custom driveshaft, I can build them at Proven Force.

Thanks, will consider hitting you up when I get to that point. Still a ways away though :)

Hah! Your rule of thumb and my advice are one in the same :) I'm all about the process as well, it's enlightening, therapeutic, and something to be proud of!

Flexplate adapter and hardware.

Some other misc info I'll post up since I've been asked.

WEIGHTS
Stock 2jz Flywheel = 34lbs (source = internet, however I will measure mine once I get it off)
Stock 350Z flywheel = 37lbs (source = internet)

My Setup
Stock 2jz Flexplate = 5lbs (source = none, this is a complete guess, cannot find this, will measure once I have one in hand)
JWT 350z Flywheel = 14lbs (measured by me)
Custom Flexplate to Flywheel adapter = 3lbs (measured by me)

Total = 22lbs (12lbs less than OEM 34lb flywheel).

Again, I will measure some of these myself once I get the parts in hand.

Gearing

Supra 6spd
V160 - (V161)
1st - 3.827 / (3.724)
2nd - 2.360 / (2.246)
3rd - 1.685 / (1.541)
4th - 1.312 / (1.205)
5th - 1.000 / (1.000)
6th - 0.793 / (0.818)
rev 3.280 / (3.192)

350Z 6spd
1st - 3.794
2nd - 2.324
3rd - 1.624
4th - 1.271
5th - 1.000
6th - .794

So you can see the 350z gearing is pretty much right in the middle of the 2 Supra 6spd's.

Rear Subframe is disassembled. Took about 2hrs longer than it needed to because one bolt was seized in one of the arms. Had to resort to the grinder.

I want to replace most of these fasteners. Not sure what other people do, but I'm guessing I'll have to just go to the dealer to get most of these? Where else would someone go for decent SS metric hardware, maybe Fastenal?

Subframe disassembled:
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1353031788

Rear Driver Side wheel hub mess:
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1353031788

Rear Pass Side wheel hub mess:
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1353031788

Old Diff in front (4.08), New Diff in rear (3.26):
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1353031788

Fastenal or a place like them would be cheapest and have a wide variety of anything you might want, say nylon locking nuts or specialty washers.

Yeah, it gets pretty limited on the big metric stuff. Fastenal has a decent website and good selection. Frattalone's Ace hardware has a decent selection of the smaller stuff (especially the one west of Northtown).

I wouldnt use straight stainless on suspension bolts. I would say get OEM bolts.

The only thing I don't like about ACE, is when I get a metric bolt to replace one on my car that was a 12mm socket, usually their off the shelf ones I need to use a 13mm on. Kind of annoying, and why I was hoping maybe there is a better place with more choice.

Joe, can you explain why SS would be bad? I'm sure there's a good reason, and I just don't know. The only thing I can thing of would be any sort of dis-similar metal corrosion or something maybe?

Just watch the grade on the bolts, stainless is usually grade 2. Stainless has a low carbon content so it cannot be hardened. Some of the suspension stuff may be grade 8.

Small update.

Ordered a JWT 350z clutch w/ metallic disc from Vinny Ten Racing. Showed up with an organic disc though, so they will be shipping me a new disc in a couple weeks.

The rear subframe is completely disassembled with the exception of the pressed in bushings. I cleaned it up with soap and water out back.

Ordered all new TRD bushings for the rear subframe with the goal of stiffening it up a bit for performance reasons, yet still retaining some comfort (which is why I chose these TRD ones over poly/solid bushings). TRD are the same exact design as stock, just use a stiffer rubber. Had a hell of a time trying to find a shop that will press out the old and press in the new bushings. Nick (munchgsx) offered to try so hopefully we'll give that a try soon.

Once the old ones are out, prior to putting in the new ones I'll be sending the subframe to PowderKeg to blast and powdercoat so it's in better than new condition.

On the control arms, the ball joints are not servicable, so you have to spend stupid amounts of money to buy all new arms from the dealer. So instead, I asked John (Pushit) to see if he can figure out a way to get the old balljoints out, and modify the arms to accept some standard off-the-shelf ones. Will hopefully be able to get him an arm to try out here soon.

Also, started on the small amount of rust spots under the car. Basically just bought a sanding pad and sanded down the areas with rust. Then hit them with some Rustoleum rust inhibitor primer, and will follow it up with some Rustoleum black enamel. Hopefully that'll help reduce any rusting under there. But again was pretty happy with how little there was.

Also I sanded and primed the new rear diff. Giving it the same treatment with the rust inhibitor primer, then will give it a final coat of black enamel.

And same treatment to the axles, and the front face of the wheel hubs.

So the disassembly stage is coming to an end with the rear diff. Will be moving onto the reassembly portion soon which is exciting for me!

careful with those control arms B. If i remember correctly they're aluminum. And since they're a structural item they'll be heat treated, so don't try and torch those ball joints out or you'll seriously compromise the strength of the arm.

Yes they are aluminum. Thanks for the heads up. I'll pass that onto John when I give them to him, see what he says. I don't know much about metal properties or whatever, just hopefully he will know what he's doing.

Just sucks that the only other real option out there is to spend $400/ea on new arms, just because of the ball joint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon (Post 418767)

400 per arm?!!? Jesus

Yup. 2 in the front, 2 in the back, and I'm at about half the $$$ I paid for the entire car.

How much is powdercoating that whole subframe gonna be?

Don't know yet, but whatever it'll cost what it costs.

Hahaha I wouldnt powder coat that, no one sees it. Just clean it with degreaser, paint it with that rust inhibitor primer and then black. But if you really want to powder it, ballin university for sure!