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Venturi vacuum pump
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Will work with any turbo/supercharged car.
Problem: Pressure in the crank case builds up while car is at wide open throttle (WOT) causing oil leaks. The stock vacuum system in our cars is designed to deal with this problem, -but- our cars are not stock anymore, they move more air, have more blowby, and have more problems. Symptoms: Oil dip stick pops out Oil leaks from the oil cap Oil leaks from the valve cover gasket Oil leaks from the cam angle sensor gasket (this assumes that you have a working PCV valve and have replaced the above gaskets before you do what I am about to suggest) Conventional solution: Use a breather filter, if that doesn't work, weld large AN fittings to allow air to blow itself out at a slower rate, thus decreasing the pressure in the valve cover to about atmosphere pressure (~15psi). I disagree with this solution, because it only allows the crank case to vent to atmosphere, it will never be @ atmosphere, always slightly above atmosphere, with air constantly escaping. My Solution: Much cheaper and easier then welding AN fittings to the valve cover, and I insist will work better. A venturi vacuum pump creates a vacuum in the valve cover while under boost. (see picture). I have been using this for over a week and it has worked great, my car idles better and no oil leaks anywhere! If anyone wants me to build them one. |
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How is this any better than pulling vacuum from the intake pipe before the turbo?
I doubt it is, or the factory would have done it. |
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I guess I should have been more specific about the applications for this pump.
stock cars with stock intake pipes are probably going to be ok. cars with 4 inch intake pipes coming off the turbo have a problem. Since the 4 inch intake pipe is such low restriction, there is absolutely no vacuum created by hooking a vacuum line up to the side. I tested this with a boost gauge, didnt pull any vacuum at all. again, this is for people who are having problems, if you are not having a problem, nothing to fix right? |
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I remember that Raptor was using an old Ford Escort Diesel (Yeah they made a few of those) vacuum pump for his Talon's crank housing. Same idea, no?
Come to think of it, I still have one of those pumps. It's at the other end of this room...weird. |
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What is the white thing on the valve cover line, a catch can?
Raptor was going to use a mechanical pump. Those flow much more than this could. He was also going to tap into the block, since this is where you want the air coming out of, not the valve cover. There are a bunch of cars running a venturi style, but they normally use the exhaust pipe to create the venturi, not a tiny little vacuum line. The biggest reason that people do the breather filter is because they don't want all that oily mess going back into their engine and IC, which yours still has. You are on the right track though. |
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the little white thing is a fuel filter, it collects oil like a catch can to keep the intercooler free of oil.
yes, a mechanical pump would probably work out pretty good also, but i would consider that overkill. the stock PCV valve works great for off-boost conditions, and this is for only when you are boosting. |
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Lets put it this way, I had the car setup just as it was stock, the turbo pulling on the crank case vent, I had oil leaks everywhere, but due to the (massive) change in diameter of the intake pipe, the stock vacuum line did not pull much(if any) vacuum, and I HAD OIL LEAKS. all I am saying is this FIXED THE PROBLEM that I have always had, my first TSi AWD (stock) popped the dip stick all the time, and when i let my friends drive the car it would pop and send oil spewing up onto the underside of the hood, make a huge mess of things! I wish I had this then! |
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I am using this catchcan because you can see through it, if (when) oil starts building up in it, I will know. A more permanent solution is going to be putting a larger catch can there. This will require moving the location of the catch can, but it will be in the same location in relation to the routing of the vacuum line |
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umm... i basically just use a tube that goes all the way to the bottom of the engine.... never really had any problems. even boosting 30 psi.
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Krank Vents would solve everyone's problem.
http://evo.dejonpowerhouse.com/ Go to the "misc" section and they should be at the top of the page. I ran these on my S2k and they do what they claim to do. They are huge in the S2k community for N/A and boosted guys. On N/A S2k's they generally show a 3whp gain and on a turbo S2k they have shown up to 20 whp. They also eliminate oil consumption; I went from using a quart every 2k miles (normal for the F20C engine) to using ZERO in my 5k oil change intervals. |
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Did you put a Vac gauge on the crank case to show a difference?
~John |
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I have not measured how much vacuum the thing creates, ill do it because I am curious.
That "Krank vent" is just an upgraded PCV valve. It does not deal with added pressure in the crank case, just look at the picture! and its $110 plus shipping! |
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Does it not connect to the same place as yours?
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~John |
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1. Makes no sense. 2. Is incorrect. 3. Has no factual evidence to back up your claims 4. Has nothing to do with the topic. If you want, I can tear your paragraph apart piece by piece. I would love to write a ten paragraph explanation of how everything works, http://xkcd.com/386/ But instead, lets get back on topic. UNDER BOOST: air needs to be forcefully removed from the crank case drawn through the (almost inadequate) crank case vent. this can be done by: -sucking air into the turbo (not desirable)(ineffective with large turbos) -using an electric pump -using a mechanical pump -using a venturi (i claim to be the cheapest/best bang for the buck) -welding large AN fittings onto the valve cover (solves problem by offering a low restriction large hole for gasses to vent to atmosphere pressure) depending on my schedule I might have some data collected this week, but after my math exam sounds more likely. will have video(s) posted by sunday. Kraka you are a cool guy, you would be even more cool if you were able to take it like a man and admit you have no idea what you are talking about. |
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In short, yes, it does connect to the crank case vent -and- to the pcv (basically a backup pcv valve) but it does not apply vacuum at all, it only stops air from flowing INTO the crank case.....and seeing how the stock line goes to the turbo intake pipe (small amount of vacuum) no air would travel back up that line anyways. this KV product will solve the problem of a defective PCV valve, but that is the only thing it will do, and for $110, I would rather buy a mitsu pcv valve and be done. |
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I feel like additional explanation is needed. I am not trying to push a product to make a huge amount of profit, I am offering knowledge that I gained through trial and error.
I know I am not the only one with this problem, I kinda wish more people would have chimed in with "yeah man, same problem here, can i buy one/tell me how you made it?" again, just trying to help with a problem that is not really covered enough (in my opinion) |
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I'm sorry that you don't like what I posted, I made no personal attack towards you nor did I say anything negative about the product you have made. I merely shined some light on a product that does something similar to the thing you designed, but goes about it in a different manner. I did not make any false claims and after re-reading what I posted I do not see anything that does not make sense. It seems like you are getting very defensive for no good reason and frankly I do not understand why.
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please explain how a PCV valve (which IS the KV product) is in any way remotely similar to what my venturi is?
A PCV valve is either open or closed, like a gate, it does not generate any positive or negative pressure, it can only regulate pressure applied to it. |
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Yes, the KV's are heavy-duty glorified PCV valves, I know this. They create vacuum in the fact they let air/gasses out, but not in. The difference between a KV and a regular PCV valve is the fact the KV will not leak air into the valve cover no matter how much boost you throw at it unlike a stock PCV valve. If you don't want to believe they work that is fine, but I can promise you that they do as I have personally used them as have MANY other people on both N/A and boosted applications with very positive feedback. I also think that you have it in your head that I am bashing on your venturi design which I am not and have in no way implied in this thread.
Similarities in the two products being discussed: -less crankcase pressure -no more dipstick pop-out -fewer/smaller oil leaks -smoother running engine |
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taken from wikipedia: The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, or PCV valve, is a one-way valve that ensures continual evacuation of gases from inside a gasoline internal combustion engine's crankcase. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pcv_valve So, again, the "Krank Vent" IS a PCV valve. PCV valves do not create pressure or create vacuum. in the picture taken from the website. you can see clearly that one (1) of the "Krank Vent"s is inline with the stock PCV valve. (only makes a difference if your PCV valve is broken) (This Krank vent is irrevalent and pointless, we are done talking about it.) and the second(2nd) "Krank Vent" is to allow high pressure air to escape through the crank case into the atmosphere(high pressure to low pressure) This second one will not allow unmetered air to be sucked into the valve cover and thereby getting sucked into the manifold. SO the second krank vent will help with idle, and help keep the crank case maintain vacuum while at idle. But here is the funny thing, this is not the problem, the car doesnt leak oil at idle, it leaks oil at WOT. The "Krank Vents" do NOT create VACUUM while UNDER BOOST. |
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We obviously have differing opinions here and thats fine, but I can tell you from real-world experience the KV's work very well and help to eliminate the exact same symptoms that your product sets out to fix. Another thing, I am not a fan of how that KV is setup with the breather filter on it, I think a much better setup would be to run it to a catch-can and then back to the intake pipe.
Anyway, good luck with your venturi sales and I'm glad you are happy with the product you designed and are using. |
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If your PCV valve is failing, The KV product is a great band-aid fix!
- and - or - If you have (INTENTIONALLY BROKEN)modified your intake system from stock so that you have a breather on your valve cover(allowing unmetered air into your engine), the second KV will aid in restoring your idle. Please, maybe I am over-reacting a little bit, but what you are suggesting is in no way related to what I am talking about, it is severly off-topic and your non-factual comments are cluttering up the thread. |
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I think you are extremely biased against the Krank Vent for no good reason. It's been around a long time. Long enough for people to find out the good and bad aspects of it. But people still use it. Nothing non-factual has been stated about the Krank Vent, so why are you claiming that?
You said earlier that size doesn't matter, it's how you use it. Well, I don't know if you know this, but when you're talking about airflow, size matters ALOT. Why do you think people put larger turbos on their car when they want more power? Because they flow more. You can't tell any of us here that a vacuum line will be able to keep up with the rotating assembly pushing air around at 7k rpms. That's why people install large diameter AN fittings with a REAL vacuum pump driven from a belt off the crank. This is a chincy, hardware store "bandaid," as you labeled the krankvent, that you are peddling here for 30 or 40 dollars. I can buy that same junk at ace for 10 bucks and steal some vacuum lines from a junkyard for free.99 and it'll work just as good or better than yours. So what do you have now? |
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Excellent comments Fatty.
iceminion, no offense but I don't really like your little venturi thing you're peddling here for two reasons. One, this is not the place to sell stuff. This is the place to show how you built it, show how it works, etc. Two, I don't really like the design. The KrankVent's are simple and they do the job. This venturi apparatus you have fashioned here seems insufficient to fill shoes of what needs to really happen. I am editing your current post as of now for pricing, as it really does violate the rules. I let it fly initially, because I thought it was a neat alternative. Now with your fierce backlash comments towards others that seem to come from nowhere, I simply ask that you cease and desist. If you want to show the parts you used to build the thing, great. Otherwise, I think I'll order some KV's. :P |
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How does the Krankvent work under boost on a car with some blowby or a loose built big HP engine? Once the vacuum from part throttle cruise is gone, where does it get more?
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Thats why you need to save some for later...duh Shane!!!
Actually, my assumption has been the intake pipe. I have no idea how much vacuum this creates, but worst case scenario its no different than running a crankcase breather filter. I would imagine there is some decent suction from the turbo though if the air filter or MAS pose any restriction what so ever. |
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If you run it to the intake pipe, then you would have some vacuum. A decent sized turbo can suck your hand in from a couple feet away.
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This thread is doomed :pc:
Nice idea iceminion. |
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So what about a GM MAF equipped car in suck through configuration. Would your route the vent side line to the intake pipe AFTER the MAF, before the throttle body?
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