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Serious Issue
WTF!?!? Did a boost leak test found out I had an air leak coming from my throttle body, Got new oem gaskets, fixed it and now my car is running like shit! Idles rough and when I rev it, it sounds like its missing and somehow magically now I have white smoke coming outta my exhaust manifold area and muffler really bad.... No idea how i could be burning coolant from just taking off my throttle body and the part that is attached underneath the throttle body.
Any suggetions.... |
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Did you get coolant from the fiav in the throttle body when you took it off? Or hook something back up wrong?
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did you separate the throttle body in half (take the bottom half off)?
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possibly pinched the gasket in between the two throttle body halves.
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Noi coolant got into the tb, and it seems like the longer it runs the worse it gets. Im not sure what could of got hooked up wrong to cause coolant to do that. just took off intercooler pipe and my throttle body thats it. |
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I'd be pulling the tb off and double checking. |
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most times if you separate the throttle body in two, the gasket between the halves swells and usually have to replace it.
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x2 I agree. I had a brand new oem one put in a fiav block off plate. Ran for only a few thousand miles. Took the plate off and the gasket wouldn't even sit in the old grooves with out bunching up somewhere.
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I took off the 2 coolant lines going into the fiav or whatever its called. and I just connected them to a valve so they just recirculate. It seemed to fix my problem with the coolant but yet again that part is just pissing out air, I have a oem o-ring gasket coming. I really hope that fixes the air leak. Also with my new throttle body gaskets, The tb that connects the air hose is still leaking...
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You can buy it I am not using it. Send me a pm
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I HAVE Bypass plates in stock at MAP...block off plates, I'm not sure about...shoot us a call if you need one...we can get the block off plates too...but I KNOW we have bypass plates
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I put my gasket in the freezer overnight. shrunk it down enough to fit.
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Blockoff plate = block FIAV and IAV/ISC? Bypass = block FIAV and retain IAV/ISC? |
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I'd personally run one of the bypass plates that block off the FIAV, but still allow you to run an ISC.
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if you dont block off the ports from the fiav after rerouting your coolant lines. the bead inside the fiav wont heat up and plug the hole so you will always be allowing more air past the throttle blade than you want.
eventually heat will make its way to the intake manifold and then the throttle body to fix this but it will take a long time/ Quote:
yea the block off plate replaces the lower half of the throttle body. the bypass plate goes in between the 2 halves and still allows for ISC operation. |
Re: Serious Issue
Sooo what do I have to do to fix my problem. Just get a bypass plate?.
My issue im having is im leaking air really bad from the fiav/isc? the part attached underneath the throttle body and if I hook up the coolant lines to it now I get coolant inside my engine.( which never had this issue before till I took it apart ha go figure right...) I have a oem gasket arriving tomorrow that odd shaped one, I'm having doubts that it'll fix the problem. I've tried sealant twice now and still just leaking pretty bad. Was thinking of just getting a whole new throttle body setup... |
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if the gasket doesnt seal it off i would guess that the Fiav portion of the lower half of the throttle body is damaged internally somehow.
also if your talking about rtv sealant your supposed to let it cure for 24 hours before use. so if you have done gasket sealer twice since this topic was posted i would guess thats why it didnt work. either way the fiav portion of the throttle body is janky and old school plus prone to failure. after so many heat cycles the wax breaks down or the mechanism can fail inside. i got the bypass plate myself and it solved a lot of my idle issues and boost leaks. |
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I would run the bypass plate and still retain the ISC if you are intent on removing the FIAV. I'm guessing a new gasket will fix it though, better than RTV.
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Install the new gasket and see what happens. If that doesn't fix it, go buy a bypass plate to bypass the fiav, install it, loop the old coolant lines so that coolant is no longer being fed to your TB, done.
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:angryfire::angryfire::angryfire:
So I installed the new o-ring gasket. Got everything hooked back up... When I first started it, the air/fuel was reading good(14's), but then the longer it ran and the more times you reved it the worse it got.. adjusted the tps a little bit and had it steady in the 13's. Took it out for a little cruise and it went to reading 10-12's super rich on my gauge.. In idle it's reading rich also. It just doesn't seem right in general.I know my car and it's just not right at all..... I don't fucking know anymore, Just Irate about this. |
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boost leak test
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I'm gonna hook up a scan tool n see what my tps sensor is at, and see how my o2 sensor is reading. For the tps sensor on a 2g suppose to be 5-10%? Or whats the exact number? |
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http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinktpsadjustment
'The ECU wants to see 0.63v from the TPS sensor when your foot is off the throttle and greater than, say, 4.6v when you're fully on it. You can datalog TPSvolts to see what the ECU is really getting. The value at idle (foot off the throttle) is probably more important than the value at wide open throttle. A value that's too high at idle can prevent the idle switch from activating or it will prevent the “simulate idle switch” functionality from working properly.' Hopefully somebody will correct me if that is wrong or doesn't apply if he isn't using link... |
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Just start from scratch and get this thing setup correctly for starters. Adjust your tps exactly like brad wrote. Set your base timing and idle properly, refer to vfaq if you don't know how. Verify your idle switch is working. Verify your isc is working. Get a bypass plate to block off the fiav to rule it out, plus you will never have to worry about it again. No idea what injectors you have but ensure your injectors settings are decent. Make sure your o2 sensor is working, or just force it into open loop.
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Hooked up a scan tool today. Adjusted the tps to 0%.. air/fuel is a little better not 100% idle is sitting at 12.8-13.2 and cruising its at 14.8-15.2... ideal would be idle n cruise to be 14.2-14.6. Still gotta do a boost leak test and I did not install the bypass plate yet. My tuner told me idle should be at 5% so after I do a blt I'll adjust the tps to 5% n see what happens. Scan tool only shows % not volts. O2 sensor and maf sensor seemed be to okay also.
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I run a bypass and mine works fine
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So that didn't work.. I took off my TB again and gonna install that bypass plate.. Do I still use the o-ring gasket with the plate? and do I use some sort of sealant with the plate on either side?
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Even with the bypass plate installed im still having issues with it running rich but it is better than before. It'll run good for a awhile then go rich again, So I'm thinking it's the tps, Still gotta adjust that to the right %.. Hopefully I can get a tantrix cable hooked up and get more in-depth with it and see what's going on.
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