problem
When trying to tune today, at WOT, the car went boom and killed on me. The rpm guage doesn't work on the safc or the guage cluster. The car will crank but does not spark. The T-belt is fine also unless it skipped. Could this be caused by the SAFC connection that goes to the computer coming out? Would this cause it not to start? I don't have time to look at it now because I work.
Thanks |
Re: problem
Does the AFC have power at all? If not, the plug going in unclipped itself. Just open it up and plug it back in.
|
Re: problem
Please state the car this is on, 1g or 2g. I would check the CAS too, if the problem isn't something really simple.
|
Re: problem
it is a 2g gst and it seemed like the car was cutting in and out a littler bit. The rest of the SAFC has power. I reconnected one wire that needed to be fixed for the power, But I didn't have any time to check anymore.
|
Re: problem
It doesn't sound like the AFC has anything do with it.Do you have a multimeter? Check the CAS and the transistor.
|
Re: problem
Crank walk eating the crank sensor?
|
Re: problem
The crank tollerance was .009 when mike checked less than a month ago so it was walking but not walked yet. Bartons went to .030 and I thought it ate sensors at .020?
|
Re: problem
SAFC works fine except does not register rpm either. Code p203 popped earlier (#3 injector). There are no check engine codes present now. The prior one was cleared and did not come back on. Something happened, the gauges turned off and the car stalled while moving. Has oil, cranks fine. Timing belt is also on there. Haven't checked to see if it jumped though. The car still had an exhaust tone though while slowing down??? Haven't had a chance to check if out yet. Happened before work.
|
Re: problem
Quote:
|
Re: problem
Sounds similar to what mine did when my ECU went out. I didn't get any sensor response on the afc or datalogger.
|
Re: problem
ecu. Did you do a proper install with the afc, or a blue-snappy-T install? If one thing or the other crossed, buh-bye!
Check the ecu for blackness. |
Re: problem
No, I used the red tap splices. Has worked on the 3 other cars without a problem. I would guess that the ecu is fine but will probly be pulled in a couple of days for dsmlink if the car can get running. The car may have been wheel hopping a bit and knocked a connector loose. May check over tonight.
|
Re: problem
The car gets fuel but no spark. The ecu is out of the question so I need to figure out how to test the cas on a 95.
|
Re: problem
Could I just wire in a 1g cas? It seems easier than pulling the intake cam and checking it that way.
|
Re: problem
I believe you can, but the pulses will be inverted.It would let you know if thats the problem though.I'm about 95% sure its your CAS or the CAS's wiring.The easiest thing to do would be to take a multimeter, set it to AC, put the positive lead on the RPM wire of the AFC(or the CAS wire), ground the negative lead and check for voltage during cranking.
|
Re: problem
We will try it after school today, Thanks
|
Re: problem
Quote:
|
Re: problem
You're checking for AC voltage though, so unless your gay voltage testers read AC, they won't work.
Yeah no voltage would mean the sensor is not functioning |
Re: problem
Ok, I just got back from checking it. I couldn't read anything off the SAFC wire or the ECU plug. I then went under the hood, popped the connector and checked the wires. With the multimeter grounded on the battery, there was no sign of any voltage on any of the three pins. So it looks like the CAS is shot. Hopefully I can find the one I threw aside when throwing a 2g head on a 1g... Looks like it may be time to swap the t-belt, HG and get some ARPs. Fucking 2gs...
|
Re: problem
BTW, the multimeter setting it was tested on was AC 750 I believe.
|
Re: problem
90 CAS
New power transistor 1g coil new ecu Car still does not get spark. 99% sure on the wiringbeing correct. Did it off of vfaq Any ideas? We will have to check the cas and other things later. |
Re: problem
Have checked the crank sensor to make sure by some freak occurence it didn't get eaten by the crank or disconnected?
|
Re: problem
the crank sensor was wired into the 90 cas along with the cam angle sensor.
|
Re: problem
We put another working ecu in and checked the cas and saw it got power. The car still doesn't get any spark.
|
Re: problem
Anyone know other reasons it wouldn't get spark besides the ecu, cas, power transistor, or coil? We also put 1g wires on it.
|
Re: problem
Lets go back to the basics here.
Does spark signal get to the transistor? Does spark signal get to the coil packs? Its just like any other wiring issue, trace it back to where you lose signal, theres your problem. More often than not, people just automatically begin replacing shit because they heard it might be an issue instead of trying to solve the problem, they try to fix it. Its one of the main reasons dsms are consitered as shit boxes at times and are constered 'unreliable'. How did you guys rule out the ecu? Start at the beginning...How is the battery voltage? |
Re: problem
What is the order in which spark travels? The only reason "shit was replaced" is because the car has a 1g head now. The ecu was ruled out by:
Throwing in another Eprom ECU Throwing in another non-eprom ECU All three ecus worked at one time. I haven't had a chance to diagnos the problems yet. All I know it that the cas is getting power and there is no spark. Have not had time to check for signal. Is there a fuse that could have blown? I checked them all but they appear fine. I haven't checked for continuity though. Still no reading on the tack. |
Re: problem
Eric came over and the car now has spark. Apparently the car did not like the coil off my old motor. The car still doesn't start though. The car sounds strange while cranking. Compression numbers dropped alot and are now at 75-75-125-75. Were at ~173 across before. New head, HG, valve seals, etc. Any ideas? Shouldn't the car still start with those numbers??? It sounds strange when cranking...
|
Re: problem
75 is definatley down there. If it has a high leakdown % it may not start. With those #'s the head has to come off anyway to see what the problem is.
|
Re: problem
What kills me now is that it has a fresh head....
|
Re: problem
Leakdown test.
|
Re: problem
anyone know how to remove the head without having to redo the timing. I know you need to take the gears off on top but I am not sure what to do to keep the tension. I don't have a leakdown tester and checker doesn't rent them so I am most likely going to neet to pull the head anyhow.
|
Re: problem
You can zip tie your timing belt to your cam gears and then support them once they are removed with bungee cords to the hood to get them out of the way.
CRAIG |
Re: problem
thanks
|
Re: problem
Yep, 2 zip ties per cam gear and make sure there is spoke of the cam gear in between them. I do mine like this when I change a head gasket. Be careful with the dowel pin on the cam gears. You still need to loosen the tension on the tensioner before you do this.
|
Re: problem
thanks, Anyone know who sells leak down testers? Napa doesn't, sears doesn't and checker doesn't. Either that or does anyone know how to make one? We started to make one a while ago but had trouble finding a part or two and stopped.
|
Re: problem
You could have just washed the oil off the cylinder walls with gas, from cranking but not starting.
|
Re: problem
That is very possible, try redoing the compression test after squirting about 5cc's of oil in the cylinders. If the numbers get better, you found the problem. One thing also I noticed when I came out to do the timing belt, the cam gears were out of phase, If they were that way when the head was bolted down, there is possibility of bent valves depending on the crank position at the time (You should always check this when bolting a head on). I would do the compression test first. That will give you the best information right away.
|
Re: problem
The crank was not at TDC and not one of the pistons was at the top of its stroke. I noticed it when putting the head down onto the ARPs. So there is not really anyway I see of the valves being bent when installing the head.
|
Re: problem
Update: Just did a leakdown test on cylinders 1 and 4. When the car was at TDC, there was a lot of air coming out the mufler and a very little coming out the intake side (bov line). The intake side was only noticable when put up to my ear or lips. Not really noticable by hand. The exhaust was another story. I could feel it with my hands over the 5" tip. I also put a bag over the muffler to see if the bag felt the pressure and it bulged quite a bit :( . Looks like I will be without a car for another few days.....
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:57 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.