Re: Engine Oil
I wish there was info on the non-synthetics like that. Also wish it included info on the oil after being run the equivalent of 5k miles or something. But a good read though.
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Re: Engine Oil
I found some good info on Mobil's website, including this:
Question: Oil Film Strength of Mobil 1 Compared with Royal Purple Does Mobil 1 have less oil film strength than Royal Purple? I have seen many times the friction test of oils using the machine that test the oil film, test result shows that Royal Purple has more friction protection that Mobil 1 does, seeing these results makes me think that Mobil 1 is lacking some benefits, therefore Royal Purple has the better protection of all. -- Guillermo Tristani, Miami, OR Answer: There are certain oils in the market today that use EP (extreme pressure) additives in their engine oil that are really designed for gear oils and not engine oils. Extreme pressure additives are typically not used in engine oils for a number of reasons but the most important is because they can cause engine corrosion over time. The rigs being used in these demonstrations are primarily designed for industrial applications like gear oils where extreme pressure is an important performance feature you need. These demonstration rigs have very little to do with modern engines and that is the reason that market leading oils in the industry perform poorly in these tests. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._Strength.aspx Lots of other good answers on there too if you have time to read through it all. |
Re: Engine Oil
Amsoil!
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Re: Engine Oil
I'm putting Rotella in Emma's ass next oil change. conventional, since that's all she's known.
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Re: Engine Oil
Just heard about this stuff on the TV show Cut Chop Rebuild today, kinda wonder if it's any good?
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil-rh.html |
Re: Engine Oil
I don't trust anything from Royal Purple. If you want a good engine break-in oil use any of the conventional high mileage oils since they contain much more moly than traditional oil. Some manufacturers (Honda for example) add extra moly to the factory fill oil.
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Brad Penn motor oil?? thoughts?
Brad Penn motor oil?? thoughts?
I'm seeing a lot of people use it in their built motors, especially the 20 W 50. its a lot cheaper than amsoil race oil and more available. |
Re: Brad Penn motor oil?? thoughts?
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Re: Engine Oil
***Do NOT use Rotella T6 if you have Cat Converters on the car*** T6 has a high level of Zinc which will destroy the converter!
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Re: Engine Oil
Do not run Mobile 1 5w30, if you are making more than stock HP and don't want to spin a rod bearing or put a rod through your block. I personally wouldn't run any brand 5w30 or any Mobile 1 anymore. 4G63s are a bit more forgiving than some motors when it comes to oil, but I recommend most people run at least a 10w40 in the Summer.
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Re: Engine Oil
RotellaT it is, then.
My car somehow manages to burn Mobil 1, I'm down a qt over 3k, so I'm definitely up for a switch. |
Re: Engine Oil
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Re: Engine Oil
Last car was a 2004 STi. Mobil 1 is CRAP! Number one leading cause to spun bearings in the subie community!
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Re: Engine Oil
Will 10w30 be fine for summer? I bought a case of amsoil dominator race oil. Car won't be driven in the winter.
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Re: Engine Oil
I run valvoline conventional 5w-30 then switch to 10w30 when it gets hot, I try to get rotella if its in the right weight, but I have been unlucky.
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Re: Engine Oil
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Re: Engine Oil
I run straight crude oil. BP is practically giving it away right now.
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Re: Engine Oil
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LOL. We should make a roadtrip down there with a boat and a few buckets. Theyre giving away free lifetime supply. ;) |
Re: Engine Oil
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I just noticed this thread had been bumped recently. I just talked to Dan, the owner of the Blue 2JZ MKIII, and he said that his car was running Mobil1 when it spun the bearings. I think it ended up being like 1 rod bearing and 3 main bearings. |
Re: Engine Oil
I've always ran mobil1 15w-40 in my dsm during the warm months.
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