99 gst manual
Here are few images.. i had my clutch changed 600 miles ago, it was babied until 500 miles.. and the lasat 100 miles it only saw full boost about three times..

Now.. this is engine oil.. i checked and it is lined up with the bottom mark of the oil level ... so the stick still gets wet until the first mark.

But there is a lot that leaked out under the car and a trail coming into the garage and about two miles ago at my gf's driveway is a puddle as well.

I am going to check the compression now and see how that is.
What would you guys say is leaking oil.. i've never had oil leaks on this car...

It seams to be coming from where engine and trany bolt together?



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Rear main seal. It is possible for dead clutch material to get in there and screw things up. Had this happen the second time we did clutch (ACT disc said self destruct) :uh:

so you say i have to take the trany off, take flywheel off and replace rear main seal? can that be done without removing the damn crank? i am checking my compression right now.. just started actually.. the cyl#4 is at 159 and staying there for like 3 minutes now without leaking :)

oh yeah also.. traced back my driving.. and it only leaked in the corners .. which my logic says that it was collecting in something and when inercia pushed it other way thats when it leaked out.. soo.

its most likely collecting in the area where clutch and flywheel get together .. and leaking out the hole on the bottom ..

You could take off that inspection sheild and see if it seems like its coming from in there.

i checked my compression... i did it by myself so i had to run out of the car and to the gauge to see... well.. here it is..

#1 175
#2 160
#3 165
#4 174

whats weird is that the one that should be the worst is actually the beest...

Either way i'm happy with the compression... now just to figure out the damn oil leak..

Oh yeah did i mention it only oil leaks were in corners..

-E

#2 is usually the worst that is normal. They put the knock sensor on #2 for a reason.

This may be another good application for that handy little boroscope :bounce: If you want to pull the inpection plate, maybe we can get it in there and identify where the leak is for sure. Let me know Enes, I want to use this thing as much as possible where it might save someone some extra work.

now is the seal replacable without taking the damn crank off?

if it is not.. then i might as well start taking the damn engine out and ordering new internals ?? i just hate to do it while the compression is soo good still :(

well Mike, i'd love to use it but that means i would have to bring the car down.. and with the oil leak i dont know how far it would make before it would loose all the oil you know.. only if i towed it ..but i have no trailer or anything.. now if you were to stop up here in Blaine if you are ever around here that would be nice..

hmm.. or if you are willing to part with it for a day.. but an item like that would be ver hard to let other people use..

i'd like to get the car up and running again asap because i just ended up driving it super nice for like 500 miles.. no boosting.. oh that was hard... and i only drove it like 20 miles a day since i didn't work a few days.. and no driving over weekend..

So its hard now to let it go in storage for the year before the snow even gets here..

-Enes

I actually would drive up to Blaine if you wanted and we could check it out. Monday or Tuesday would be best, but any other day would work as well.

Thank you Mike for checking it out and a nice talk about stuff :) always a pleasure talking to you!!!

Well we ended up taking the inspection shield off and it looked clean in there no oil deposits or anything.. Mike checked out himself with the "remote eye" and the seal was in place and dry..

then i drained engine oil and there was plenty of it... then i drained out the trany oil and there was barely two quarts ...

soo the conclusion..


driver side axle seal



:razz2:

No problem Enes, it was fun as always hanging out for a while and chatting.

Glad you got it figured out Enes!

unfortunately... there is a bad thing in figuring this out..

Ended up draining the trany oil... Mike remember how i asked you about the shiny stuff??? guess what it wasn't reflection.. Chunk galore!!!! well i measured how much transmision oil there was.. 1 1/2 qt of oil..
I also measured engine oil.. 4 qts ..... plus when i let some engine oil get on the floor next to the other oil that leaked out.. there was a huge difference that should of explained it to me as well.. black compared to goldish..

Soo there was no engine oil it was trany oil.. and it was only leaking when i would take right hand turns which would explain the driver side axle..

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Did you get some better fluid in there? I am not at all a fan of GM Synchromesh. Not that it had anything to do with the metallic chunk collection in the fluid, but definately worth changing. There is really no question as to where the leak was. The drivers axle seal is definately the culprit. Not sure what I would suggest you do about the metal collection in the fluid. Maybe after the new seal are in and the fluid is changed, check it again in a week or so and see how it looks. Maybe some of that is from all the trouble they had getting the axle in on the passenger side and issues with that retaining clip. If there is a new collection of particles in the fluid at that point, maybe have someone who knows trannies better check it out and give you some options. I don't think it would be good to assume disaster and pull it for rebuild right away. Maybe someone with some more tranny building experience can chime in on this and help out with some useful advice.

I am bringing him some Redline tranny fluid on Friday...

My trany got overheated most likely and from my limited knowlede...from what i know about metals is that i'm screwed.

Once metal starts flaking it means that it has been heated up above designed temperature and its starting to flake..which means the tensile strenghth of the metal has changed and has become softer.

Which means that it will work for some more time but it will start wearing out more rapidly.. until the gears are rounded out completely..


am i right?

-Enes

New thicker oil will not help me most likely... once metal is heated up and cooled off the properties of it change.. just like you don't want to cut simple springs because heat will change property of its tensilnes...

can you imagine what heat does to gears that are made to take a lot of rpms and traction?

-E

Actually, I doubt if that will be the case. 20 years of metal work and there are a few things I know. Metal that is sitting in fluid or at least continually bathed in fluid will not get hot enough to change it's temper usually with the exception of bearings. It takes heating steal to a color of at least dull red then slow cooling it to remove temper. It really depends on what the material is that was in the fluid. If it is magnetic, it could be gear material or bearing material. If not, it could be case or synchro material. Really depends on where it is coming from as to how bad of a problem this is. With it being a manual tranny, I would expect the particles are coming from metal to metal grinding somewhere rather than metal fatigue.