No Reverse and bad noises...
 

So I start the car up to take it for a test drive. Put it in reverse, feels normal. Start slipping out the clutch and the car moves forward! All the other gears work great and engage good. However, there is also a rattling that has a metallic sound to it. It sounds kind of like scraping, doesn't matter if the clutch is in or out, what gear it's in, nothing. Shifter cables are hooked up right, nothing is loose. I even manually put the levers on the trans into the reverse position, and it does the same thing.


I also have a big oil leak on the oil pan, but that isn't as big of an issue as this. I would like to start daily-ing the car asap, but this shit is holding me back. Any and all input is welcome!

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

The way the tranny shifts into reverse is kinda weird if a pin ar a detent ball came loose in the linkage it would probly shift into 5th instead of reverse.

I have a 90 FWD tranny sitting here if you need a different one.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

I sent you a pm regarding that trans.


If something broke in the linkages inside the trans, why would the car move forward when the levers on the outside physically go in reverse and every gear shifts like butter? On the outside, driving it, it feels just like it should.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

I found something that might be of interest regarding the shifter cables:

Reverse:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/../.../SDC10576R.JPG

5th Gear:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/../.../SDC105775.JPG

On those two gear it looks perfectly normal to me. Now, look when the top cable moves the gear selector down into the first and 2nd gear slot.

1st Gear:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/../.../SDC105781.JPG

See how the boot stays the same? Is that normal?

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

Reverse works now I guess. All I did was unhook the cables under the hood completely, only then could I manually put it in reverse under the hood. Hooked the cables back up and test drove it, all seems well now.

I'm going to swap turbos back to my 14b cause the 16g is junk shit. I'm hoping thats all my problem is. Otherwise it might be the starter too. Gotta drop the damn pan too. :(

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

I took that turbo off my car for a reason, make a mut turbo or toss it, no other use for that turbo

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

Yeah, turbo's are already swapped. Oil pan is off too. Do they make thicker rubber or cork gaskets for the oil pan?

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

Why not try rtv? That's how they came from the factory. I believe its grey rtv or something like that. I used high temp copper rtv on my friend's laser cause he got the wrong oil pan gasket and it doesn't leak at all. He even has 2 stripped out holes.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

I tried that and it leaks. I used the black rtv shit, no gasket. I'd rather have some gasket in there tho.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

You gotta make sure the block and pan are perfectly clean if you're gonna RTV it. Black works the best.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

I'll have to get a new tube, im just about out of my current black stuff.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

I prefer Ultra Gray Rtv, always worked for me. Just make sure you have patience and let whatever you use dry for at leat 24 hours. Otherwise you will be pullin it again.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

I think I did it wrong to begin with. I layed it on and tightened it up right away instead of letting it set for a half hour. Silly me.


Thanks for all the help guys.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

No no your fine, just let it set up for at least 24 hours, you will be good.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

Yeah the key to rtv is to let it cure fully. I'm known as the rtv king between me and my friends. haha

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

Just to make it a little more clear, put it on the pan or block, whichever works best for you, a thin layer will work fine as long as there are no breaks in it. Then install the pan right away, don't let it cure before you put it on. Then wait for it to fully cure before adding oil and running the engine.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

That's what I did and it still leaked. I put oil in it maybe a day or two later. I'm going to try letting it dry a bit first so it's more solid before I torque it. To me it makes more sense that way because you're letting it harden up a bit so when you do torque it, it will seal up better instead of just squeezing out the sides.

What is it, 6-7 ft lbs. is what I torqued it down to last time, starting at the opposite corners and criss crossing.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

Use the light grey RTV and clean off ALL old gasket and make sure the surface of the oil pan that meets the block is perfectly flat. Get all of the oil off and make sre both surfaces are perfectly oil free and dry. use almost the entire tube or at least half of it and but the oil pan up with finger tightening the bolts on and go back an hour later and snug them but dont tighten the shit out of them.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

Don't let it skin over before you put it on, otherwise it won't seal to the other surface. well, unless you're a robot and can make a perfectly flat even seamless bead all the way around the pan. And like Kerry said, make sure the pan and block are absolutely clean. No old gasket material or oil on them.

Re: No Reverse and bad noises...
 

For the shifting problem, you might want to look at replacing the in-car shifter bushings. My car did the same thing, replaced the bushings and problem solved. Because the bushings were just so worn out, it didn't allow the linkage to get into reverse position.