[Pushit2.0]

If you want to go fast in a dsm here is what you need to do.

-Strip the car down to nothing, and I meen nothing, weight will be the thing that slows you down and breaks everything.

-Install the proper safty equipment, if you crash this thing at a rate of speed it would be better to get out and say dam then to be injured or worse, full roll cage, 8 point at least(kits are called 10points) and have it certified.

-suspension and tires, a good coil over set up(ksports) and good DRs or full slicks, this will help with ETs and if setup right should save the drivetrain also.

-A good tranny, auto or shep stage 4, you can have the lights car in the world and make the most power ever, but if you can not shift you are going to be slow.

-proper tuning, EMS or similar for a series power setup and pay someone to tune your setup, this will save you money and headaches in the longrun.

-ignition, up grade this, DIS2 or COP

-Fuel sytem, install the biggest fuel system you can afford. At the minum twin Bosch 044 pumps or bigger, 4 1600s min, fuel cell.

-a good SMIM, JMfab, Magnus, AMS, Forrester, etc. Get a nice sized TB, not to big but not to small, the Q45 his big but works.

-clutch, get somthing that will hold, and no a ACT 2600 will not work.

-turbo size, this will come down to how much power you want to make and how fast you realy want to go. Look at power band, what your motor can handle for power, same with the clutch, tranny, axels, Tcase, and you as a driver. You do not need a GT4202 to run a 9, just look at DSM times.org, I would say start with a big T4, 67 GTQ, if that is not enough just upgrade, turbos are cheap if you stay away from BB, and sell your old turbo. Do not look away from bigger A/R housings this will define your power band, the wheels size(weight/size of the wheels) is your total power possible and most of your lag.

-Motor, if you want to rev build a high compression 2.0, if you want drivetrain shattering torque build a 2.4, if you want to burn up some pistons build a 2.3, if you build cars on paper build a 2.1 or a 2.7. If you are only looking for 9s just copy a proven setup, to run 9s there is no reason to re-invent the wheel. Head studs if you can get some L-19 head studs go for it, or if ARPs are the only option just plan to replace the head gasket every now and then. Cams, buy the crower 415s or 288s if you are going to rev high, if you are looking hte 2.4 route buy a cam sized for that power band, FP/comp(thats who fp uses I think) make a good line of cams also some are sized more the 2.4 motor size. 1mm over SS valves and a good port job will go along way, its easy to go to far with a DSM head. Springs/retainers just get a set that matches the cam card.

-intercooler setup, this depends on fuel type used, boost, etc, a good bar/plate core intercooler(PTE or similar) with or with out custom endtanks will get the job done, just watch your AITs and you will be fine.

-Fuel used, most DSM setups do not need c-16, they might make more power on E85 or E98 or 110 leaded. But for a bigger setup like the one I am talking about I would say c-16, run 35 or so psi and get the car/chassie/drive setup and working together then look at the holes in the setup, more power, more traction, more money, more what ever.

-Dyno time, do not try to street tune, that is the worst thing you could do, track tune or dyno tune, there are a few awd dynos localy and to make sure your setup is running like a top, just pay someone to tune it, people dump who knows how much in the rest of the setup but will not put the money into the tuning, I do not understand.

~John