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Originally Posted by Pushit2.0
I would do a leak down test to see how much blow by you are getting.
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I agree, this should be done.
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Originally Posted by Pushit2.0
What was your compression test method and brand of gauge?
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Wal-Mart, we bought it to determine if a friends engine had bent valves, all i can trust it to do is tell me if i have ANY psi in a cylinder
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Originally Posted by Pushit2.0
Also did you check all the machined surfaces on the block to make sure they are flat, with a straight edge and feeler gauge?
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John Gosh did this for me, resurfaced the block.
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Originally Posted by Pushit2.0
If the block is warped it will leak oil like crazy.
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not going to rule this out, its possible
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Originally Posted by Pushit2.0
Also where is the oil coming from? and do not say "from everywhere" it has to be coming from seals, gaskets, cracks, etc.
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From everywhere. JK the whole engine/transmission was coated with gunk and grime, i just finished cleaning the whole assy up today, see attached pic. it was black when i started this. and I have added a bottle of dye to trace any leaks WHEN they surface
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Originally Posted by Pushit2.0
The idea of venting more crank case pressure is good, but I do not see it as needed in this case, the valve cover is a little easy to drill into. Who did the machine work and assemble on the motor again?
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I am in no way suggesting that everyone do this, just i think this is going to be a fun experiment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pushit2.0
John Gosh is a well rounded machinist, not some legend of 4g63 building, thats Rick Shindly.
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True, but i learned everything I know about DSMs through rick, back when he was working on DSMs (is he still doing this?)
therefore, I am as crazy as rick.
Also, if John Gosh looks at a block, feels the metal, and says "there should be no problem with block strength if you drill a hole right....there" I am going to believe him over what anyone else here says. DSM pro or not
The second picture is a counter-measure to Boostcreeps picture