MitsuStyle - View Single Post - Re-torquing ARP headstuds

**scheides** · 05-12-2009

As everyone saw last saturday my car is puking coolant under high boost (again) - 29psi. When I drive/boost my pump gas map (24psi) it is rock solid, no coolant issues.

So, what's everyone's methodology for re-torquing headstuds? I have run 10k miles since I put the HG in and am going to yank the valve cover to make sure everything's tight. What's the best plan of attack? Just hit it with a torque wrench set for 90 (this is a 7-bolt remember), or crack them loose and re-torque?

Yup, this is basically a shot in the dark, but I'm not ready to yank the head off right now.

Thx for the input.

05-12-2009	#1
scheides flips McGee Cribbage Square Champion! Great Mahjong: Classic Champion! Mah Jongg Solitaire Champion! Mahjong Connect Champion! MuMu Champion! Join Date: May 2004 Location: Minneapolis, MN Drives: BeaterX Posts: 12,900	Re-torquing ARP headstuds As everyone saw last saturday my car is puking coolant under high boost (again) - 29psi. When I drive/boost my pump gas map (24psi) it is rock solid, no coolant issues. So, what's everyone's methodology for re-torquing headstuds? I have run 10k miles since I put the HG in and am going to yank the valve cover to make sure everything's tight. What's the best plan of attack? Just hit it with a torque wrench set for 90 (this is a 7-bolt remember), or crack them loose and re-torque? Yup, this is basically a shot in the dark, but I'm not ready to yank the head off right now. Thx for the input.