Re: 2.4 build advice needed.
Put a degree wheel and dial indicator on it and you will see what I mean. Yes, it will run, but not as well as it should/could.
The cams on the 2.4 motors have the dowel in a different position in relation to the centerline of the cam.
It's a conversation you and I should have the next time you are in Duluth because it is so much to type.
2.4 engines have a longer timing belt, so when the crank is at TDC, each cam gear is off by 1/2 tooth. So on the 2.4 cam gears, the timing marks are moved by a half tooth. But look at where the dowel hole is drilled.
If you put a 2.0 on and engine stand, stock belt and stock gears. Then put a 2.4 on an engine stand, 2.4 belt, 2.4 gears. Look at the position of the dowels while the crank is at TDC, they are not in the same position. The dowel hole is drilled in a different spot in relation to timing marks on a 2.4 cam gear then on a 2.0.
Well every cam out there (including fp3's, verified by a phone call with fp) has the dowel inserted in the cam so that with a 2.0 gear, the centerline of the cam is where it needs to be. fp3/fp3x cams where built for 2.3 strokers, not 2.4 with the longer timing belt.
Pretty much by using a 2.4 mitsu cam gear, at TDC with the cam gear timing marks lined up, the cam is not in the right spot because the dowel hole in the 2.4 cam gear rotates it just slightly.
Im not saying it wont run or wont make good power, Im just saying that if you put a degree wheel on it, solid lifters, dial indicator, piston stop, etc etc etc, you will see that the lift of the valve is not correct in relation to the crank. I verified this on my motor with both 2.0 gears and 2.4 gears.
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@BloodSweatMotorwerks
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