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Old 11-26-2003   #14
JET
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ham Lake
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Quote:
Originally posted by niterydr@Nov 26 2003, 01:04 PM
The things I personally believe that help fight against crankwalk are:
-line honing blocks w/torque plates still attached
-pinning caps
-proper assembly techniques (which I think is common knowledge, using plasti-gauge, etc).
-Making sure everything else 'attached' to the crank is in working order (from undampened pullys to improperly attached transmissions)
This is the exact list of things that I have come up with. I have already talked to Mike about renting the torque plate when you guys get it. I am also installing the CRCO dowel kit. The only other thing I would add is the piece that John posted up from NABR that went over the alignment of the crank bearings, but that only matters if it is not doweled.

I have been toying with the idea of putting a torrington bearing in place of the clutch side of the thrust bearing. I know they will take a pretty good amount of force on them. For anyone that doesn't know, basically it is a set of needle bearings. I am thinking of machining down my dead crank and block to make room for the bearing. That is the major problem with putting a torrington in, I have not been able to find one that thin because that will decrease the surface area of the bearing which means it will hold less pressure.

The other issue with that is that the block is cast iron and I don't think it will like a needle bearing rolling around on it. To solve that the block has to be machined down even farther and a bearing surface mounted. .100" would probably work. Food for thought and I don't know if I will ever get to it or not, but it is interesting.
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