Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane@DBPerformance
I don't know. Just peeling and faded/dull/color changing. I see a lot of cars on the dyno with carbon fiber parts on them that are a few years ago and most look like crap. Maybe do what TKR said, if you want the CF look. I prefer painted, but that can cost a decent amount of money to get it right.
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Noted sir!
Quote:
Originally Posted by asshanson
The problem is that most people want the CF look, so it gets the nice weave finish and gel coat which doesn't last more than a few years if the car sees a lot of sun. The cost is also a huge markup because of time to lay the nice finish.
The CF parts with a nice finish and gel coat weigh a decent amount more than carbon parts that look crappy but are meant to be painted, minimum 15-20% more weight and a lot more cost. I think for my Exige the unfinished carbon hatch weighs 5lbs @ $1700 and the finished weave and gel coat part weighs 7lbs @ $2500.
The only hard part is finding places that make unfinished carbon parts that are meant to be painted. Not many people care about the weight and cost savings, only want the look. If you really care about weight savings, get the bare carbon parts (if you can find them) and paint them.
Sanding down the gel coat and doing a real clear coat on the carbon weave is risky, because you might sand down too far and ruin the weave, and then you have to end up painting it anyway, with the added weight of the final weave. Plus you should probably wear a mask, so if you do sand into the carbon fiber you don't get any CF dust into your lungs, definitely not good to breath that stuff in.
Just my .02c.
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I have access to a neighbor's aircraft company's resources for help (ionaircraft.com, I'm on the homepage :P) and I'll discuss with him the best ways to get the old finish off when it discolors etc and have it painted black. They have some serious capabilities of actually reapplying a great top coat but at what cost and weight is the point you mentioned. I think I'll wait until they disappoint me appearance wise, and then bring it down to the surface, save the weight and do a light black/clear layer to protect it. Strong UV resistant stuff to be exact. I have made several compression molded parts with absolute minimal surface resin and it was amazing how light it was but then again it didn't look very shiny in the least.
Thanks for the input guys, I want to make it purdy and still keep function. The doors and tubular cross member are coming after I deal with drivetrain beef later on...