New wg and cant controll the boost. HELP!

HiImBrian · 07-08-2006

So it's 3:00AM and I just finished putting on my ported 2g mani and 40mm HKS wg. Before I had this external wg I was running 10psi w/ a stock internal wg. I've got a stewart warner boost gauge so that's accurate. And my boost controller is a Joe P. After I put on the new mani and wg my boost just shoots up to 15+. I let off as soon as I see it over 10psi. I addjusted my boost controlled all the way down and all the way up and my boost still shoots way past my safe and happy 10psi. Why is this happening?!

Swifty1638 · 07-08-2006

what WG spring does the 40mm have?

-A. Swift

HiImBrian · 07-08-2006

Aw shit! I totally forgot about that. I don't even know. Can you adjust the wg at all or do I need to replace the spring?

Swifty1638 · 07-08-2006

i'd replace the spring if it's too big. the wg doesn't adjust like some of the internally gated turbos.

-A. Swift

HiImBrian · 07-08-2006

I can just take off the wg with an alan wrench and get to the spring right? I've never taken one apart and I don't wanna bust my wg.

Swifty1638 · 07-08-2006

I am not 100% sure, as I don't remember what the hks wg looks like..it's liek a squarish looking canister, with cooling fins right? And there are 4 alen heads on each corner holding the two halfs together? I'd look at it to tell ya, but I am semi-busy at the moment, and also really numb (dentist owned me)

-A. Swift

HiImBrian · 07-08-2006

If I can get a new spring from LSE today I'll give you a call swift.

http://www.hksusa.com/images/?id=1378 <-that's the one

s1ngletracker · 07-13-2006

your spring is too stiff and your lower limit for boost is set by that spring... you can always raise it using a boost controller, but you can't easily lower it using a similar method. you'll need another spring.

s1ngletracker · 07-13-2006

figure out which part No. Your wastegate is, and theres a table on the HKS site that tells you waht boost its set at.

HiImBrian · 07-13-2006

Thanks, I saw all that. I don't want to spend money to buy a softer spring and lose hp, so I'm getting a set of 660ccs and a walbro 255

s1ngletracker · 07-13-2006

dude, ack! did you read what i said?

"you can always raise it using a boost controller"

--no matter what spring you have.

but yeah, another spring costs money, so if you're sure you can handle the boost that your spring is set for, then go for it.

HiImBrian · 07-13-2006

I was planning on buying new injectors and a fp and dsmlink eventually so why not now? I understand that you can raise it w/ a mbc. Thanks though.
-brian

s1ngletracker · 07-13-2006

ok cool dude... just be careful.

HiImBrian · 07-14-2006

I'm barley boosting at all right now. Im getting used to my car being slow, then it will feel a million times faster when I get my injectors n stuff. I've got a fmic, 660ccs, and a fuel pump on the way. then i save for dsmlink.

tpunx99GSX · 07-14-2006

The boost will usually only go as low as the wastegate spring. Wastegate springs are only like 15 bucks. Your best bet (based on personal expirence) take your time, get the WG spring, then save some money and get the right parts to make your car fast, after you have all of the supporting mods at your house, install them all, then take the car directly to the dyno.
On my GSX (that i no longer have) i was in too much of a rush to throw parts at it. i threw on a 50 trim, 680cc injectors, safc, boost controller, tial wastegate, but didnt have the tranny built, didnt have a FMIC, and didnt have dsmlink and it was never tuned. On my GST im finally learning, Im making sure that i have everything that i need and the money to put it on a good 2-3 hour dyno session before i install anything. Granted the car already is pretty built up. but before i upgrade the turbo i want to make sure that all the supporting mods are there. yeah the wait does suck and I hate looking at the 50 trim sitting in my room and not on my car, but i just know it will be worth it in the end.
Lesson of the day: DONT RUSH THINGS, IT WILL MAKE YOUR CAR SLOWER THEN STOCK AND EVENTUALLY BLOW UP.
Tom

s1ngletracker · 07-14-2006

amen to that Tom. Take your time man, I would never recommend raising the boost first, followed by fuel system and management. Should be the other way around, be safe duder.

HiImBrian · 07-14-2006

Yea yea, I totally agree. Check out www.hksusa.com the springs are like $50. To me it's not worth spending $50 to get a smaller spring. I would rather just drive my car slow and barley boost at all till I can get the money for fmic, injectors, fp, and dsmlink. I'm not trying to rush anything. I leave for school in the middle of august and I don't think any of this will be on yet. Would you agree that fmic, 660s, fp, and dsmlink are pretty good supporting mods? I've already got all the bolt ons plus a big 16g. I'm not like other dsmers, I take my time, buy good parts, and I can be ok with having a slow are for a while.

s1ngletracker · 07-14-2006

who says other dsm'ers are like that? There's always idiots, but not everyone is that way.

Isn't dsmlink pretty pricey? I would just go with the SAFC for now. FMIC isn't vital.

Do you know which spring you have?

tpunx99GSX · 07-14-2006

The spring is not going to make you lose horsepower. It allows you to pick a boost setting that is more geared toward your setup, which in a lot of cases will lead to more horsepower and a much better running dsm. And you can get it here http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale.../part/Standard for $32.00. and im sure if you did some more research into where your buying these parts other then on the Manufacturers site (where they deal in MSRP) then you could maybe find it cheaper then that.
Yes FMIC, Fuel Pump, 660s and a dsmlink are pretty good supporting mods, but what about exhaust, Clutch, Flywheel, the other aspects that wont nessesarily net you some more HP but will allow expansion in the future.
Honestly the best "Mod" you can do even though its not a mod at all is put it on the dyno.
Dyno tuning I have seen it MANY times, will net more HP gain then pretty much any mod you just throw at your car. and usually costs less.
Honestly I see this too much on this site, people get these cars and they see cars like many of the senior members of the site putting down 500+ hp and think "Man i would love for my car to do that" they then go buy all of these parts, but dont think of the whole aspect of the car. Like suspension, Block, Pistons, Crank... The senior members of the site in most cases have owned many DSMs have spent countless number of dollars on their cars and have built well rounded machines that can throw down numbers into the 600's because they have built the car very well and taken care of all of the details.
Im not trying to rag on you, Im just trying to stop you from making the same mistake that a lot of people make, and end up blowing up their motors and giving another one to the dsm gods. DSMs can be very reliable even at Higher HP, but if you dont want to be replaceing parts every 400 miles then i suggest being ready for the long run, taking your time, and saving up enough money to do things right like building the block, and doing very detailed work.

p.s. dsmlink isnt that bad for a price, i think $450, but you can check the site, www.dsmlink.com

HiImBrian · 07-14-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

who says other dsm'ers are like that? There's always idiots, but not everyone is that way.

Isn't dsmlink pretty pricey? I would just go with the SAFC for now. FMIC isn't vital.

Do you know which spring you have?

I apologize, I wasn't trying to put other dsmers down. Yes dsmlink is pricey, but I'm planning on running 660ccs and that is just out of range for an SAFC. And I'm planning on tuning my car 2-3 psi under its max (just to be safe) I am pretty sure a fmic will be necisary because my sidemount will probably start to heatsoak my engine since I'm only running a big16g. I've got a 1bar spring=14.7psi