Turning my quest into a dsm.

[Super Bleeder!!]

It certainly cant hurt.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Originally Posted by Shotgun!

I'm very scared for your shortblock dude.

Meh, it'll be fine, it's a champ! anyway, I'm not trying for rediculous numbers, and no one has ever really even pushed a mostly stock block.

[FattyBoomBatty]

lol, thank FSM for simple fixes. The feed line for the turbo has an adaptor and that wasn't tightened down enough. And I figured I'd just let'er buck with the thermostat and all was well, no problems, got up to temp and stayed there. adjusted the idle a little bit, it'll hang around 800-850. Baller. got all the vac lines hooked up and took it for a spin, went and got gas, half a tank for 20 bucks, haha. it's a fun-ass car.

[Shotgun!]

Make a video!

[FattyBoomBatty]

I will. belly belly soon.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Instead of having a bolt go through the valve cover like it used to, I took advantage of the head being off the car and drilled and tapped a new hole in the back of the head. It goes through to the water passage, but I'm not worried, I sealed it up nice. The bolt is more of a precaution since the CAS is a tight fit anyway. Better safe than sorry, I guess.

[scheides]

Cool, what's the status of the bottom end?

[FattyBoomBatty]

Just waiting for the rotating assembly to be balanced, then I get it back. Maybe friday.

Then I just have to buy gaskets, and be sure to put it all back together correctly.

[Febo]

Yay!

[FattyBoomBatty]

Here we go! 8:1 forged wisecos, shotpeened rods, block was bored with a torqueplate, crank polished and rebalanced. I'm going to start assembly later this week and take my time and do everything right.

[turbotalon1g]

Awesome!!

[FattyBoomBatty]

Going together. I got the head on and found two broken valve stem seals, so I'm going to use the compressed air method for holding the valve while I replace the seals.

Just need to get the rear main seal on, then I can put the oil pan on and start dressing the outside of the block. I need the stem seals and freeze plugs, then it can be buttoned up and installed in the car. The problem with having the head and manifolds on when it goes in is that I have to remove the hood. Oh well. small price to pay for making things easier overall.

[Febo]

Mmmmmm sexy.

[scheides]

Get some thin rope or thick string to fill the cyl just in case a valve drops! Looks megabitchtasticalawesome man!

[FattyBoomBatty]

Someone else said that also. I do have a large air compressor and all necessary tools at my disposal to use just air.

I would hate for a piece of rope to get stuck on a ring and scratch the walls or something.

[Super Bleeder!!]

dude its rope, its not going to scratch anything metal. its going to burn!

[FattyBoomBatty]

Your mom went to college.

And you never know, brah! Also, I would have to buy a rope probably.

[Febo]

Dude, just use rope.... its fail proof.

[FattyBoomBatty]

We will see soon enough, I guess.

[FattyBoomBatty]

GM Trailblazer knock sensor. Booyah! it has an M8x1.25 bolt, so you get a helicoil for that size, and it threads right into the stock knock sensor hole which is M10x1.25, no need for an expensive "special tap." I got conned into buying one (kidding) only to find out it was the exact same pitch and size as the stock hole, so back to Ace hardware I go to return it (24-25 bucks ). Then you just snip the tip of the bolt and it goes right in. Voila, a brand new knock sensor from www.gmpartsdirect.com for 18 bucks not including shipping.


Here's the passenger side, and all that's really left is to install the intake manifold and replace the valve stem seals that are broken (they broke from the lash adjusters being too tight, which also probably had something to do with the detonation which broke the hyperU engine in the first place, holy crap I'm an idiot for not checking the lash).


And here's the back side of the engine, I don't know why, but I felt like showing this off, mainly I think it's cause I love the new drainback setup.


Henjoy!