Re-torquing ARP headstuds - Page 3

**Halon** · 05-12-2009

If you go too high with the Moly Lube, you could surpass the yield strength of them, enhancing the issue in the future.

I personally would just get the ARP L19's, and be done with it (that is what I ended up doing. L19's are in my parts cabinet waiting for the next time the head comes off).

As for the powder coating, I am always nervous about doing Valve Covers. They can be so picky due to the tiny little corners you have to get into, and the possible outgassing that could occur. We could definately do it, just have to bring it in already stripped and clean and ready to go. Expect to be here awhile though because I take a lot of time on Valve Covers because they are so picky. And there's a real good chance there will be some small blemishes. I'm not a pro, but it should still turn out pretty deng nice. If you wanted to, we'd have to setup a day, as my weekend schedule is always busy as crap. And I need to pick up some more powder I think.

**scheides** · 05-12-2009

Brandon,

I'll prolly wait till I pull the head to do the HG (assuming it comes to that) then, this is 4 coats of black and 3 coats of clear.

Looking back, I'm pretty sure I did 87 lbs on them.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 05-12-2009

Just get the A1 L19 studs and follow the directions that come with them. They are cheap for the Evo/7-bolt compared to 400-500 for a 6-bolt or 600-800 for a Supra.

FattyBoomBatty · 05-12-2009

IMO, I'd really assess your goals with this car. Will you really be taking advantage of the L19's or would you be alright with regular arps?

**scheides** · 05-12-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

Just get the A1 L19 studs and follow the directions that come with them. They are cheap for the Evo/7-bolt compared to 400-500 for a 6-bolt or 600-800 for a Supra.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

IMO, I'd really assess your goals with this car. Will you really be taking advantage of the L19's or would you be alright with regular arps?

IDK, 400whp is about my limit w/o building the motor, and I don't really plan on doing much more than where I'm at.

Damn it shane, really?

4g63tcrazy · 05-12-2009

L19's! L19's! L19's! L19's!

Mwolf83 · 05-13-2009

With a RA tester. Go to a machine shop and they should have one. They arent cheap so they might be hard to find one. The shop I work 4 has them and they are $2000+.

**scheides** · 05-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mwolf83

With a RA tester. Go to a machine shop and they should have one. They arent cheap so they might be hard to find one. The shop I work 4 has them and they are $2000+.

Is this something mobile? I mean not like I'm gonna wheel the car down there....

Mwolf83 · 05-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

Is this something mobile? I mean not like I'm gonna wheel the car down there....

Yes it is mobile, fairly small actually. You can google it (not many results, but they are there, pics I mean)
Here is a link to a pic:
http://pracownia.mechaniki.com.pl/in...osciomierz.jpg
they come in all shapes and sizes.

**scheides** · 05-13-2009

Also, I bought the ARPs as 'the last set I'll ever need' and now look what happened. Why should I waste my time and $$ on these L19's?

Shane, what headstuds were in that 700whp evo?

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 05-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

Also, I bought the ARPs as 'the last set I'll ever need' and now look what happened. Why should I waste my time and $$ on these L19's?

Shane, what headstuds were in that 700whp evo?

AMS L19s. Same as Titan, A1, etc.

Cometic headgasket. No ghetto copper spray. No O-rings.

**Halon** · 05-13-2009

OK keeping that mindset, why waste time and $$ on more of the same ones your having problems with right now?

You have all the info at your finger tips, it's your call dude.

sleepydsm · 05-13-2009

Wtf does surface roughness matter? Isn't the important thing FLATNESS?

I really don't think copper spray is the devil, either.

If/when I build an engine I'm gonna be surface grinding my deck surfaces down to the .0001" muahaha. I'm going for flat as flat can be.

**Halon** · 05-13-2009

My understanding is that flatness is very important. As far as RA goes, if you are running a composite type gasket, a rougher RA could work, but if you are running any sort of MLS gasket, then RA is important as well.

**scheides** · 05-13-2009

Anyone local have access to one of these? Anyone mobile that could help me check flatness on the block?

FattyBoomBatty · 05-13-2009

Well, what will you honestly do to the block? I don't think it's been out, so I doubt there are any real problems with it. RA must be good enough for the factory, so I'd only worry about the head. Just check the block with a straight edge, not for roughness.

**Halon** · 05-13-2009

My roommate has one of those certified straight edges. That's what I'm going to use to check my block's flatness when I have the head off.

**scheides** · 05-13-2009

orly! perhaps I could borrow it for an afternoon sometime?

**Halon** · 05-13-2009

I can ask him. I'm not really sure exactly what to do though. I think just lay it on the block in as many different ways as you can, and I suppose use some feeler gauges or something to measure any gaps you find?

niterydr · 05-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

I can ask him. I'm not really sure exactly what to do though. I think just lay it on the block in as many different ways as you can, and I suppose use some feeler gauges or something to measure any gaps you find?

Correct.