How to swap heads quickly. - Page 2

niterydr · 08-14-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

Mark showed me how to do this when we did Kevin_1G_drummer's HG on his 1G, I used the same technique each time I did HG swap on my evo. First time however, I dropped a bolt down in the timing belt cover and ended up pulling the tbelt half apart anyways. Re-doing a t-belt easily adds two hours and a lot of PITA to a HG swap. Just to not have to pull the water pump pulley off alone makes this worth it.

I like your tool, very nice

10mm ratcheting wrench and a 10 mm fixed end wrench, Take the ratcheting one and spin it towards the fixed, the fixed will "tighten" the other will loosen up. Then its a game of :

for the 4 bolts as you spin the water pump and remove the bolts.

**scheides** · 08-15-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

10mm ratcheting wrench and a 10 mm fixed end wrench, Take the ratcheting one and spin it towards the fixed, the fixed will "tighten" the other will loosen up. Then its a game of :

for the 4 bolts as you spin the water pump and remove the bolts.

The head on my ratcheting wrench is too big for the evo water pump, I guess that's my problem. Then again, coming off isn't really a biggie, you're right. It's putting it back on that is a freaking wh0re! Remember the evo one is on the back side of the motor, the dsm one is more towards the front. Doing it alone sucks extra salty balls.

turbotalon1g · 08-15-2009

Good idea on the bug hideous tool.
We older dsmers roll zip ties and paper clip thingys even cheap cam blocker from harbor freight.
Congrats though if it makes ur work go faster then it's worth it

sleepydsm · 08-15-2009

That's awesome, what a time saver!!

spinz4 · 08-17-2009

I bet $10 bucks that the little bit of cam movement made the hydraulic tensioner extend all of the way out, congrats.

joesushi · 08-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinz4

I bet $10 bucks that the little bit of cam movement made the hydraulic tensioner extend all of the way out, congrats.

It's an auto adjusting tensioner, so that wouldn't matter. The car runs great now.

niterydr · 08-19-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by joesushi

It's an auto adjusting tensioner, so that wouldn't matter. The car runs great now.

Its actually a hydraulic rod that provides tension over the length of a typical belt cycle/revolution. If the tension is not correct to begin with (on the pully/tensoner rod not centered) it is very likely that the tensioner will eventually run out of range and not compensate on during a high rpm condition, or start-up/shut-down stress.

iceminion · 08-19-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

Its actually a hydraulic rod that provides tension over the length of a typical belt cycle/revolution. If the tension is not correct to begin with (on the pully/tensoner rod not centered) it is very likely that the tensioner will eventually run out of range and not compensate on during a high rpm condition, or start-up/shut-down stress.

Correct, an auto adjusting tensioner.

**Halon** · 08-17-2009

Tool looks cool. If it works well for you, and saves you time, then sounds like a win win situation for you.

FattyBoomBatty · 08-17-2009

Nice work on the tool. If it helped at all, it was worth it.

Forced Fed · 08-19-2009

Yea it might save time and money, but it also could cost a lot more time and money... If you take the head off, just replace the timing components IMHO...

bertrenolds5 · 09-01-2009

Is he renting this contraption out? Would like to do my valve seals

slowbubblecar · 09-01-2009

The bungy cord method worked well enough for me. I was able to swap my head off and back on it a few hours. I used to zip tie the belt to the cam gears in many spots, use the bungey cords from the hood to the top of the cam greas to keep the tension and stick something between the cam gears. Worked well enough that I wouldn't use the time to make a tool. Removing the timing components on a dsm isn't that tough though. Everything is right there after you remove the covers.