Dave's Evo X Build/The Life of Dave blog - Page 150

**Kracka** · 10-14-2013

Cool, I was mainly just wondering if you're getting MAP's new one.

**Murlo26** · 10-14-2013

I was going to do Mil Spec, then Bill at MAP let me know they were finishing up their Evo X TB's and I figured why not. I just like the idea of a local company doing it just in case I have issues.

My favorite part of the weekend, got to spend $350 at Sears in Tools! Got some good stuff, my favorite pickup, craftsman electric 3/8" impact driver, seriously made the job so much easier.

**scheides** · 10-14-2013

It's awesome how you got those pistons out through the intake ports on the head! Nice work! Money well spent @ sears

**Murlo26** · 10-14-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

It's awesome how you got those pistons out through the intake ports on the head! Nice work! Money well spent @ sears

Super Gosh porting on the head made is possible to squeeze the pistons out

yea, I officially need a toolbox now, probably another trip back to sears. It's starting to suck trying to be organized with my small bench.

The pistons are from my 1st built motor, sold those last week, so need to ship them out.

bramagedained · 10-14-2013

Fuck it. Get a 6765 and a direct port N2O kit and run a 100 shot as a spoolup.

**Murlo26** · 10-14-2013

Nah, don't want that nonsense. I'll be happy with 550-600 on the new setup with stock like spool.

**Tachyon** · 10-14-2013

I showed your mom some stock like spool last night, HA!

I don't even know what that was suppose to mean...

**Kracka** · 10-15-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tachyon

I showed your mom some stock like spool last night, HA!

Recirculated blow-off or did you dump it in her face?

**Murlo26** · 10-15-2013

Hey now, leave the mothers out of this.

Just remember the rules...no touching of the hair or face.

**Murlo26** · 10-30-2013

New MAP rev3 goodness

Also, you can see I had them plug my PCV port no longer used. No more blue hose with wheel stud to cap it off that I fashioned with turbotalons help at Simulated's place last summer

Also, you can see my new fuel pressure gauge and girodisc 2 piece rotors underneath

evotuner · 10-31-2013

Very nice sir, Im assuming with the girodisc two piece youre going to road course the bish next yr?

**Murlo26** · 10-31-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by evotuner

Very nice sir, Im assuming with the girodisc two piece youre going to road course the bish next yr?

Maybe...we will see lol. Honestly, I just want it back together now, if I race it that is a plus. I will have a new fuel setup by then complete with surge tank so I will be ready to do it.

Realistically though I am going to try 1/4 more first, I feel a lot more comfortable doing that and I want some 11's with this turd.

**Murlo26** · 11-06-2013

Parts came today

Another fuel pressure gauge (have one in my engine bay) for in the cabin.

Girodisc 2pc rotors (rears, I'll pick up fronts sometime over winter):

Ported goods!

Hughes, not sure what you wanted pics of, but let me know and I can take more.

**Kracka** · 11-07-2013

Pics look good! Just deciding between a Mil.Spec or a MAP for the 2014 I'm doing the build on down here. One thing, verify there is Loctite on the throttle plate screws...don't want you to pull a Buschur.

**Murlo26** · 11-07-2013

I will double check the screws tonight.

**Murlo26** · 03-20-2014

So the Evo will probably sit for the summer as I planning to spend bonus money this year on other things non evo related (potentially expensive rock for woman, we will see

) but I was curious as I am looking at wheel/tire setups.

Has anyone had experience with these?

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...StreetRadialII

I would run these in the 265/40/18. I would then sell my current rims for some 9.5" ones with the same offset. Also, question on offset, since I would go from 10.5" wide rims to 9.5" wide ones (both +15mm offset) would they still sit in the same position with regards to how far they stick out? I am guessing yes and they would just be less concave? I just don't want my fender roll/pull to look weird.

I am looking at 18's because I would like to keep my braking power so if I ever chose to do road course stuff I don't have to change much.

However, my end goal is just street and 1/4 mile for this car and then if I keep the car running long enough maybe try other stuff.

The other option, is change front brakes out, there are several options here, but then move to 17's or less even and slicks and maybe keep my current rim/tire setup for street.

No idea where to go with this just yet. I bought new rotors from MAP, girodisc 2 pc for the rear as they were on clearance and was planning to go 2pc for weight savings etc but I could sell those and change strategies.

I like the idea of running the MT street radials as I have heard a lot of the really high HP guys run those on the street so they must be decent. But I am guessing they suck in rain and turning...dunno.

**cmspaz** · 03-20-2014

Offset is how far the seating surface of the wheels is from the center point. A 15mm offset is the same seating position from center on all wheels. If you go down in size an inch, you lose a half inch on both edges of the wheel, so the inside is 1/2" further away from the strut, and the outside is 1/2" further inboard. Also, this generally means that the spokes are closer to the caliper, but by how much depends on how much the manufacturer changes to face of the wheel at that offset in different widths.

Here's a good resource: http://www.willtheyfit.com/

**Kracka** · 03-20-2014

Changing out the brakes is a really dangerous idea considering you're still wanting it to be a street car plus have the possibility of taking it on the road course sometime. You already have some nice lightweight rotors...leave well enough alone. If you want to shave weight, a lower weight wheel and tire combo will be more beneficial anyway.

Mark Berry did the small lightweight drag rotors on his 2200 lb. Evo VIII and he said they're fine for autocross due to his car being so light, but said he'd never consider taking them on the road coarse or even a fast/spirited street cruise.

**asshanson** · 03-20-2014

I agree with Kracka on the brakes, don't go to a small brake kit. Especially with how heavy the X is. A lighter wheel/tire combo will have a greater effect because a lot of the mass is further from the center which is what takes the most torque to spin.

Or, if you're just wanting the 17" wheel for tire options, I'm sure there are plenty of R compound tires available in the 18" size. How about the Nitto NT05-R or the NT01? Or the Toyo RA-1? Why are you changing from 10.5" to 9.5" width?

**Murlo26** · 03-20-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by asshanson

I agree with Kracka on the brakes, don't go to a small brake kit. Especially with how heavy the X is. A lighter wheel/tire combo will have a greater effect because a lot of the mass is further from the center which is what takes the most torque to spin.

Or, if you're just wanting the 17" wheel for tire options, I'm sure there are plenty of R compound tires available in the 18" size. How about the Nitto NT05-R or the NT01? Or the Toyo RA-1? Why are you changing from 10.5" to 9.5" width?

The wheel change was simply to find a solid drag radial tire, like the ones from MT i linked above. They don't have a 275 or 285 so my wheel size won't work.

I have thought about something like what you have listed.

My bottom line, I want to be able to cut decent 60' times at the track. I don't necessarily need the 1.3-1.5 from slicks, but I would like to get consistent 1.6-1.7 times that an AWD car should be capable of (keep in mind, taking out of the equation driving skill, that is another topic lol).

I am not crazy about the small brakes either, which is why I am asking. But many people on the national forums said even wide sticky summer tires like star specs or others won't cut great times. Most guys recommend if you are serious about getting times, get some 17's and slicks. I was trying to find a middle ground.

I don't honestly drive the car a ton and I "could" make it into a dedicated drag car but not sure I want to. I still want to be able to do things like the mitsu cruise etc, which I will need brakes for.