Serious Issue

[goodhart]

I put my gasket in the freezer overnight. shrunk it down enough to fit.

[Halon]

I'd personally run one of the bypass plates that block off the FIAV, but still allow you to run an ISC.

[viridionplague]

if the gasket doesnt seal it off i would guess that the Fiav portion of the lower half of the throttle body is damaged internally somehow.

also if your talking about rtv sealant your supposed to let it cure for 24 hours before use. so if you have done gasket sealer twice since this topic was posted i would guess thats why it didnt work.

either way the fiav portion of the throttle body is janky and old school plus prone to failure. after so many heat cycles the wax breaks down or the mechanism can fail inside.

i got the bypass plate myself and it solved a lot of my idle issues and boost leaks.

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by viridionplague

if the gasket doesnt seal it off i would guess that the Fiav portion of the lower half of the throttle body is damaged internally somehow.

also if your talking about rtv sealant your supposed to let it cure for 24 hours before use. so if you have done gasket sealer twice since this topic was posted i would guess thats why it didnt work.

either way the fiav portion of the throttle body is janky and old school plus prone to failure. after so many heat cycles the wax breaks down or the mechanism can fail inside.

i got the bypass plate myself and it solved a lot of my idle issues and boost leaks.

I waited over 24 hours. I'm kinda confused about this.. and before I look even dummer with asking more questions im gonna crash for the night lol

[asshanson]

I would run the bypass plate and still retain the ISC if you are intent on removing the FIAV. I'm guessing a new gasket will fix it though, better than RTV.

[Halon]

Install the new gasket and see what happens. If that doesn't fix it, go buy a bypass plate to bypass the fiav, install it, loop the old coolant lines so that coolant is no longer being fed to your TB, done.

[Yiddie]

So I installed the new o-ring gasket. Got everything hooked back up...

When I first started it, the air/fuel was reading good(14's), but then the longer it ran and the more times you reved it the worse it got.. adjusted the tps a little bit and had it steady in the 13's. Took it out for a little cruise and it went to reading 10-12's super rich on my gauge.. In idle it's reading rich also.

It just doesn't seem right in general.I know my car and it's just not right at all..... I don't fucking know anymore, Just Irate about this.

[CornFed2.4]

boost leak test

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by CornFed2.4

boost leak test

I will today. But still doesn't explain why its running rich while cruising tho.

I'm gonna hook up a scan tool n see what my tps sensor is at, and see how my o2 sensor is reading.

For the tps sensor on a 2g suppose to be 5-10%? Or whats the exact number?

[C3L1CA]

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinktpsadjustment

'The ECU wants to see 0.63v from the TPS sensor when your foot is off the throttle and greater than, say, 4.6v when you're fully on it. You can datalog TPSvolts to see what the ECU is really getting. The value at idle (foot off the throttle) is probably more important than the value at wide open throttle. A value that's too high at idle can prevent the idle switch from activating or it will prevent the “simulate idle switch” functionality from working properly.'


Hopefully somebody will correct me if that is wrong or doesn't apply if he isn't using link...

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by C3L1CA

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinktpsadjustment

'The ECU wants to see 0.63v from the TPS sensor when your foot is off the throttle and greater than, say, 4.6v when you're fully on it. You can datalog TPSvolts to see what the ECU is really getting. The value at idle (foot off the throttle) is probably more important than the value at wide open throttle. A value that's too high at idle can prevent the idle switch from activating or it will prevent the “simulate idle switch” functionality from working properly.'


Hopefully somebody will correct me if that is wrong or doesn't apply if he isn't using link...

Thanks for the info! Hopefully somebody will reply to what you said haha

[Halon]

Just start from scratch and get this thing setup correctly for starters. Adjust your tps exactly like brad wrote. Set your base timing and idle properly, refer to vfaq if you don't know how. Verify your idle switch is working. Verify your isc is working. Get a bypass plate to block off the fiav to rule it out, plus you will never have to worry about it again. No idea what injectors you have but ensure your injectors settings are decent. Make sure your o2 sensor is working, or just force it into open loop.

[Yiddie]

Hooked up a scan tool today. Adjusted the tps to 0%.. air/fuel is a little better not 100% idle is sitting at 12.8-13.2 and cruising its at 14.8-15.2... ideal would be idle n cruise to be 14.2-14.6. Still gotta do a boost leak test and I did not install the bypass plate yet. My tuner told me idle should be at 5% so after I do a blt I'll adjust the tps to 5% n see what happens. Scan tool only shows % not volts. O2 sensor and maf sensor seemed be to okay also.

[GsXtUrBo98]

I run a bypass and mine works fine

[Yiddie]

So that didn't work.. I took off my TB again and gonna install that bypass plate.. Do I still use the o-ring gasket with the plate? and do I use some sort of sealant with the plate on either side?

[Yiddie]

Even with the bypass plate installed im still having issues with it running rich but it is better than before. It'll run good for a awhile then go rich again, So I'm thinking it's the tps, Still gotta adjust that to the right %.. Hopefully I can get a tantrix cable hooked up and get more in-depth with it and see what's going on.