Getting the Laser ready for AutoX - Page 8

123abc · 04-02-2009

I did that last spring.

Had the alternator rebuilt due to it leaving me on the side of the highway. Threw it in and I'm happy to say it runs great. Very rich though. Gets down to 10 by 6500. Need to tune it since its still on the base adjustment for 560's on my Translator.

But right now I's happy.

123abc · 04-06-2009

Took a couple pics tonight and a video.

Here's the video. 20-135

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKeweSBkLCk

Here's some more pics I took. Show off my shack of a garage. They didn't run electricity out to these things, so I got my own extension cord and run it off our deck.

Here's a shot of the interior. Notice how clean it is (needs a vaccum) and the repaired lower door panels. For those who remember, there were like 4 speaker holes. I took it into work a week or 2 ago and cleaned it up pretty good. I scrubbed the shit out of the carpet and then shampoo'd it. Looks dirty right now, but thats from all the dirt being lifted out and of course I have been daily driving it.

This is what it looked like when I first got it:

You can't see it in the pic above, but I mounted my AEM UEGO inside the stock gauge cluster where the stock oil pressure gauge was. Front and center.

123abc · 04-08-2009

So I think my clutch is fucked. I have fluid and my lines aren't leaking. My clutch won't disengage.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 04-08-2009

Did you try adjusting the pedal? Can you see the slave rod moving at all?

123abc · 04-08-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin_1G_Drummer

Did you try adjusting the pedal? Can you see the slave rod moving at all?

I highly doubt its the pedal, it was working fine up untill I was on my way back to work today from my lunch break. Going down a hill and notice I couldn't get it into gear. So I had to drive it back to work then back home with the clutch always engaged.

I inspected the lines, including the ss line I have for it, and there's no leaks. Fluid level is full. Got down and tried wiggling the fork, seems solid to me. My guess is the pressure plate is done.

MustGoFaster · 04-08-2009

My bet is a spring broke out of the disc and is wedged on a PP fin.

123abc · 04-09-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by MustGoFaster

My bet is a spring broke out of the disc and is wedged on a PP fin.

Thats the exact thing that happened to me about 2 years ago or so. It was then that I decided to have Mr. Vogel rebuild my engine.

I'm trying to look at this as a positive thing. I can now take the time to pull the pan off, the vc off, and many other things to fix the many oil leaks. Do a compression test, etc.

Last time I did a compression test I don't think any of the cylinders were over 130.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 04-09-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by MustGoFaster

My bet is a spring broke out of the disc and is wedged on a PP fin.

Sounds like this is probably your issue.

123abc · 04-09-2009

Since I'm more than likely going to need a clutch, I'm stuck between two transmissions. I have a nt tranny with shorter gear ratios and a turbo tranny with longer ones. I have heard the nt transmission is a bit weaker, but the idea of shorter gears makes me lean that way. Thing is, depending on which tranny I use, I'll need a different clutch for each. The bellhousing on the nt is smaller, therefor needing a smaller clutch.

twack · 04-09-2009

seriously, 130? what are all the numbers. is your tester reading low? i would think you would have better numbers. iwould stick with the turbo tranny, its treating you good. if it ever fails toss in the nt. now rip that trannsmission off, and get to work, ill get down when ican. didnt that happen to your last clutch, i thought it did when i saw it out

Kevin 1G Drummer · 04-09-2009

I would also stick with the turbo tranny. The gears aren't really that tall, and you'll still be able to wind out first and second in no time flat.

carltalon · 04-09-2009

I'd check the Master and slave cylinders before pulling the tranny.

123abc · 04-09-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by carltalon

I'd check the Master and slave cylinders before pulling the tranny.

Oh yes, I will. I need someone to help pump the pedal while I watch it. I've been busy so I haven't gotten out there.

123abc · 04-11-2009

Everything that I can see from the outside looks fine. I looked inside the tranny behind the dust boot over the fork and can't really see much. So I started taking my tires off up front and broke my 3/8 ratchet. lol Need to get my dad's 1/2 inch drive set.

I did however pull the exhaust side off the motor. I can already see a lot of the oil leakage is from the valve cover and some from the middle exhaust stud that has an oil passage behind it.

I have a wedding to go to today at 1 but when I get back I'll get out there and get some pics and get dirty.

123abc · 04-11-2009

Some pics:

It looks to me like the valve cover is leaking good and the middle exhaust stud seems to be leaking too.

This is my first time pulling the valve cover. Does everything look alright in there from the pic? lol

Figured out my pcv valve is actually preventing the engine to breath which would explain how much shit is in my catch can. I can just drill it out or hollow it out right? I do not have it hooked up to the intake manifold.

twack · 04-11-2009

haha ya the head looks ok

123abc · 04-11-2009

I saw some insane wire tuck jobs on vw's and honda's and really got inspired:

What the hell is this^? Can I cut it off and leave just the metal line?

twack · 04-12-2009

i did i think its the tank vent.

MustGoFaster · 04-12-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by twack

i did i think its the tank vent.

+1 Normally attached to the charcoal canister I think.

4g63tcrazy · 04-12-2009

That line is the vent for the gas tank. You shouldn't have it blocked off cause when the fuel vaporizes it needs somewhere to go. But yea remove the rubber hose and you can just leave the metal line open. Too bad you're so far away otherwise I'd gladly help out.

Here is some inspiration for ya!