HID retrofit discussion

[mx3twinturbo]

Originally Posted by totaleclipse_05

I disagree.

When you go to ignite the HID bulb, the current can double or even triple the amount needed compared to when it's completely on. This load can, over time, melt the wiring jacket around the stock wiring. This happens so fast that it will not blow the fuse. That is why you should install larger gauge wiring hooked up the battery and use a relay to tap into the existing wiring for the headlights.

Looks like another test will be done tomorrow. ARGH! lol.

[mike55112]

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo

I tried talking to him about it, around then,
but he really didn't have a great explanation of what happend.
though if I had done a shoddy wiring job and burned down my BMW, I don't think I would have admitted it either.
-Jesse

Maybe I will call jared and see if he actually found out that it was the Lights that caused the fire..

[Jakey]

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo

I will post up a spec sheet on our product,
1 cold starting electricity 6.5-7.0A
2 stable electricity 3.5A/12V
3 hot starting electricity 3.6A/12V
4 stable power 35W
5 open circuit protection automatic protection in 1s
6 short circuit protection automatic protection in10s
7 over voltage protection automatic stop working reaching18v
8 low voltage protection automatic stop working reaching 8v
9 lighting test no ignition in 23kv anywhere
10 flashing test turn on and off in every second ,every time the bulbs can
11 aging test work continuously 24 hours normally
12 ignition test normal
13 high temperature test work normally reaching 105 centigrade
14 low temperature test work normally reaching minus 40 centigrade
15 waterproof dustproof test immerged in water for 12 hours,
16 anti-vibration test good
17 salt fog test good
18 anti-electromagnetism test meet regulation requirement
19 ignition voltage 23kv 20KV-23KV
20 time to stable in cold starting process 4s
21 isolation function ≥300megohm the power is isolated to outer shell≥300 megohm

if you need an explanation please ask.
Thanks,
Jesse

I have had a number of HIDs hooked up to an oscilloscope and have yet to ever see one with a startup current draw as low as mentioned in your post.

[mx3twinturbo]

Originally Posted by Jakey

I have had a number of HIDs hooked up to an oscilloscope and have yet to ever see one with a startup current draw as low as mentioned in your post.

I will test this tomorrow. ;-)

[Jakey]

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo

I will test this tomorrow. ;-)

With? What will the sampling frequency be?

[clean2g]

Originally Posted by Jakey

With? What will the sampling frequency be?

Let's see if I remember my statistics: so you mean that he will have to find a sample size or number of samples that will give him an accurate reading? And then he'd have to make like a bar chart or a scatter plot and all that good stuff? Because one or two readings is not technically accurate since you have variability; the more samples the better. Dang.. I can't believe I remembered all of that.

[asshanson]

I'm guessing he meant actual frequency since he mentioned using an oscilloscope. Though I'm not sure why, thought that was for AC only.

[At-Least-It's-An-Evo]

meh guys, that's why there's car insurance!

[green hornet]

holy! ppl he's just trying to get every one a good deal on them, if you are worried then pass on the sale! it's a simple as that

[At-Least-It's-An-Evo]

Originally Posted by green hornet

holy! ppl he's just trying to get every one a good deal on them, if you are worried then pass on the sale! it's a simple as that

That's pretty much what I'm saying. I've had "cheap" HIDs in my car for two years and it's been fine. I'd buy a few sets from him just cause but I'm broke right now.

[sleepydsm]

Originally Posted by green hornet

holy! ppl he's just trying to get every one a good deal on them, if you are worried then pass on the sale! it's a simple as that

Agreed.

[Jakey]

When I am talking about sampling frequency, I am referring to how often is the measurement device taking a measurement. I have found a couple different multi-meters at work that do not sample fast enough to catch the initial current surge that HID ballasts have. That is why I ended up using a current transducer with an oscilloscope.

[mx3twinturbo]

Originally Posted by Jakey

When I am talking about sampling frequency, I am referring to how often is the measurement device taking a measurement. I have found a couple different multi-meters at work that do not sample fast enough to catch the initial current surge that HID ballasts have. That is why I ended up using a current transducer with an oscilloscope.

My DVOM is has a High sampling rate, with a Min max function, so If the readings are below 10A I will catch it, or blow my fuse, we will see Ill get it done soon.

[Swifty1638]

I have the ebay black housing headlights, with the hids..wired wrong when I got them, but fixed it, and it works just fine now. Yet to have any issues.

-A. Swift

[FattyBoomBatty]

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo

Results...
incandescent bulb(9006)
*surface temp #1 -857 degrees
*surface temp #2 -913 degrees
*surface temp #3- 970 degrees
HID Bulb(H7)
*surface temp #1 -658 degrees
*surface temp #2 -738 degrees
*surface temp #3 -823 degrees

Conclusion:
HID's run cooler than Incandescent's

I need to question this method of measurement. Did you use an optical temp sensor, like infrared stuff? If so, this can't possible represent the actual temperature of the surface, you could just as well be measuring the temp of the filament in the incandescants, and the gas or whatever it is in the HID's. You need a non-optical reading for surface temps of glass.

My guess is that it will be very different (lower for both). If my headlights are reaching 900 degrees, my car would have caught fire a long time ago.

And it was already addressed, but I would think poor wiring would be the culprit, not the bulbs or ballasts themselves.

[mx3twinturbo]

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

I need to question this method of measurement. Did you use an optical temp sensor, like infrared stuff? If so, this can't possible represent the actual temperature of the surface, you could just as well be measuring the temp of the filament in the incandescants, and the gas or whatever it is in the HID's. You need a non-optical reading for surface temps of glass.

My guess is that it will be very different (lower for both). If my headlights are reaching 900 degrees, my car would have caught fire a long time ago.

And it was already addressed, but I would think poor wiring would be the culprit, not the bulbs or ballasts themselves.

agreed to the point of accuracy, just to prove the point that the HID bulbs run cooler,

[mx3twinturbo]

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

I need to question this method of measurement. Did you use an optical temp sensor, like infrared stuff? If so, this can't possible represent the actual temperature of the surface, you could just as well be measuring the temp of the filament in the incandescants, and the gas or whatever it is in the HID's. You need a non-optical reading for surface temps of glass.

My guess is that it will be very different (lower for both). If my headlights are reaching 900 degrees, my car would have caught fire a long time ago.

And it was already addressed, but I would think poor wiring would be the culprit, not the bulbs or ballasts themselves.

agreed to the point of accuracy, just to prove the point that the HID bulbs run cooler,

[xveganxcowboyx]

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo

My DVOM is has a High sampling rate, with a Min max function, so If the readings are below 10A I will catch it, or blow my fuse, we will see Ill get it done soon.

Did you ever get around to this test? This thread is making me nervous about the 55w DDM kit in my Bimmer. They sure do spark bright when turned on...