Took some time today to play with teh beater. Here's the new injector adapter on the left, old one on the right. See the two kinda 'wings' on the side on the new one and not on the old one? That is what helps keep it straight in the plug and not necessitate zip tie racing :P Also the 'hook' on the top is bigger so it seems to hold more snug. The EV1 connector (dsm/ct9a evo-style) is revised as well. It is more sold too, although seating them and getting them off is tougher as it is tighter:
Here's the new spacer setup installed. The one end of the fitting is machined a bit so it slides into the fuel rail or IM properly, and the outside donut (see previous pictures) helps keep it flat and properly supported. The injectors fit absolutely *perfect* now, I am SO HAPPY! These things are fidgity when installing and I always drop them, so I went ahead and put a few little dabs of RTV inbetween the three pieces to just keep them from falling apart on install (and hopefully uninstall whenever that day comes):
Cobb BOV installed, that took all of 3 minutes! Only item of note is that the boost source nipple faces 6 o'clock and the stocker points to around 10:30 so I had to adjust the hose for that:
Driving impressions? I am *really* impressed so far, even turning it about 3/4 to full tight (I think) it is stock-like driveability on the freeway and around town and it seems to hold boost just fine, I'll be reviewing logs this week.
After everything under the hood was buttoned up, I decided to yank the fuel hanger. Spaz got me some 30r10 hose and I had to see if it would fit.
First item of note, the filter/screen is bent but NOT kinked, so no fuel blockage there:
Then I removed the bendy hose and test fit the 30r10...bad news. Even if it was long enough it just wants to fold over on itself once the pump is where it would be in the tank. Boo. Really need the cobb-style S-shaped fuel line for this I think...maybe it wouldn't get kinked and I guestimated placement wrong...but still it is close and it wants to kink flat.
So back in with the bendy-straw hose, I routed it more smoothly this time:
Notice how it doesn't get kinked when the top is compressed as it would be in the tank:
Also took apart the little return filter that lomker linked to in his thread, mine is debris-free but I can see why people might want to mod that stuff, its like a needle-hole!
Back together it runs like a champ! I even put the engine cover back on, I am officially done messing around under the hood for a while.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlomker
I offered to let scheides test the Jays 340 pump. Not sure if it's enough difference or not.
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I just need to figure out how to rewire the stock plug for it and I'm all over it. Do the pins on the stock plug pull out easy, or did you have yours hardwired?
Also noted the guy from evomn.net who simply re-wired his Jays 340 pump and is using the stock FPR....tempting to say the least!
We'll see I guess but he was very honest and plain about running into the limit and rewiring it helping. To me the kinda downside to a rewire vs a BAP is that 14v is all you get. If I go with a BAP at least I can turn it up later if need be 
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