Motor Build Time Questions

[DSM-is-LOVE]

Hey all. I was looking into finally retiring my 7 bolt motor in my spyder and doing a build of a motor. I have a 6 bolt block that I had bought as a packaged deal when I was going to do a 6 bolt swap in a Talon I use to own but sold last winter. I got the motor with another complete 6 bolt but sold the complete one and kept the other long block. Block looks good, no scuffing, but not so sure about the crank. I have no history of how many miles on the motor or anything like that, but it was beaten on at some point cause the pistons had what looked like some detonation on them.
My plan would to be is to have the block cleaned, machined, etc. along with the crank, and to just run a OEM bottom end, and keep my 7 bolt head, and just go from there, but after talking with sleepy, he told me another good route would be doing the 2.4 block and going from there.
Now i've seen both be done, and they would both be about the same work it seems like, but I wanna know from you guys what would be the better route? I'm not exactly looking for 1000whp or any of that, but i would like to make 350whp and higher. Money is somewhat of an issue, but I am not the kind of person to go out and be cheap buying all Egay parts just so I can make my car run sooner. Eventually with that much power i'd like to do AWD at some point cause even at around <300whp with just FWD the tyres still like to break loose.

Or should I just sell the car completely and get something else?

Just looking for people's opinions and so forth to help my decision out.

[93gtpeater]

Dont get rid of the car. I would have the block and crank checked out first before think about a 2.4. If the block and crank are good build it. What turbo you plan on running? sorry about other night when we went on the highway and did a pull

[DSM-is-LOVE]

I was thinking for the time being just maxing out my 16g but i'd like to do either a SCM44 or something like a FP3052, or a frankenstein 20g. Something within those 3.

where did we do a pull? lol

[93gtpeater]

Couple saturdays ago. we were at holiday on hwy 280. I had the purple beater 1g 14b.

[Kracka]

Agreed on first step should be have the block and crank checked then go from there.

[DSM-is-LOVE]

lol you don't have a 14b. scm 61 eh?

yeah i'll have the block and crank sent out next week. hopefully I won't have to do it sooner than later. I'd like to run my car at proving grounds. see if I can't get kicked out for running too fast without a cage. lol

[93gtpeater]

Yep scm 61. You should be able to run up too 11.5 in the 1/4. I can check the rulebook.

[DSM-is-LOVE]

i heard it was 13.5 then they kick you. cause you can trap a high enough speed at that time I guess.

[CornFed2.4]

You need to run an 11 to even get looked at. Good luck with ur build!

[goodhart]

11.49 and 135mph for normal cars, pretty sure you need a roll bar for 13.49 or faster in a convertible though.

[93gtpeater]

Iam pretty sure they changed it. Cause some cars stock would need a cage. Like the cobra, vette, and viper. Aslong the car is close to stock you should be fine.

[goodhart]

Just a roll bar, not a cage. Anywho, just use

[Goat Blower]

2.4 is always a good idea if money allows. And don't worry about track regs, get out and run the numbers first, then you can worry about rollbars and such.

[sleepydsm]

I was suggesting building a 7-bolt 2.4L.

No piston squirters, full block girdle, should be able to use all stock 2G parts.