Project Lex - Page 38

**goodhart** · 12-22-2012

I forgot, which rear diff are you using now? What will your speeds at redline look like for each gear?

311evo · 12-22-2012

Brake set-up is looking pretty solid.

**scheides** · 12-22-2012

Awesome! Glad this part of project went well for you and you can kinda 'close the book' on it before moving forward.

turbotalon1g · 12-22-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

I forgot, which rear diff are you using now? What will your speeds at redline look like for each gear?

Try him and find out next spring?

**Halon** · 12-22-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

I forgot, which rear diff are you using now? What will your speeds at redline look like for each gear?

My stock SC300 manual rear diff is 4.08, which 1st gear is basically worthless once you're making power on my 5spd. So once switching to a 6spd, it'd make it even that much more worthless. The stock 98+ SC400/SC430 is 3.26, and is what I'm now running. That is the same ratio as the JDM TT 6spd Supra's. USDM have a 3.13.

Speeds I don't know, but it should end up being very similar to a stock TT 6spd Supra. The rear diff is close, the 350z trans gearing is close.

**goodhart** · 12-22-2012

**Halon** · 12-28-2012

Game on, time to start draining fluids, and get that pig outta the engine bay!

Also, picked up a set of BC valve springs from MAPerformance. Thanks again Chris!

**Halon** · 12-28-2012

Well got about a 2hr start on it today. Got the oil, coolant, and PS fluid drained. Got the work area taped off since I know it's going to become a tool rack and I'd like to keep the paint as nice as possible. Got the front bumper removed, FMIC and piping removed, bunch of stuff unplugged and labeled. Slowly but surely is the way I work now-a-days

Leaving it like this for the night, will hopefully get another couple hour crack at it tomorrow!

**goodhart** · 12-29-2012

Is this the ignition/forward facing intake and ghetto-pipe delete portion? Will this allow you to do something with the MAF then as well?

**Halon** · 12-29-2012

Basically I'm still trying to do one at a time as much as possible. So this will just be replacing gaskets to eliminate leaks, some other clean up stuff, and new trans. When I out it back in I want the ignition, intake, all that to still be the same so it hopefully starts and idles nice still. Will probably also do some freshen up in the head, along with the new springs and cams too. I just really feel like the the FFIM and ignition is going to take a bit of dialing in to get things running right, so I don't want to do that at the same time I'm doing everything else. Want to make sure I start with the car working well, then do those so I know if something isn't running right, its that and not something else.

93gtpeater · 12-29-2012

Thats the best way to do it. Step by step. Can the stock bottom end handle the power you want to make? Are you going to do thicker head gasket?

19TsiAwd90 · 12-29-2012

^ sounds like a good idea, install 10 diffrent things.. having an issue, you'll end up trying to trouble shoot the issue for days.

**goodhart** · 12-29-2012

I agree. I tore everything apart with the 1st Talon and kicked myself for doing it. One step at a time is the best approach.

**Halon** · 12-30-2012

The stock bottom end can take tons. People have made 1000hp on the stock bottom end, but it can't really sustain that level. I personally would trust it up to around 800. 2jz bottom ends are tough as hell. The NA bottom ends are pretty much identical to the turbo ones, just no oil squirters, and higher compression pistons. That's it.

No thicker gasket, I'm keeping it stock 10:1. Just some MAP headstuds. With e85 and full standalone control of ignition and fuel, I should be fine.

Mark Leasure · 12-30-2012

Nice work, I like all of the attention to detail the rear parts. Awesome that the stock block can handle that much too!

**goodhart** · 12-30-2012

If you do take the head off, which head gasket are you going to run? Seems like a lot of the mk3 guys like the HKS stopper or whatever its called.

**Halon** · 12-30-2012

I will run an OEM NA headgasket. I like the idea of 10:1 compression. I don't really see a good reason at this point in time to get a thicker HG. It will lower my compression, and move the squish outside of the ideal range. If for some reason it just turns out to not work, I will re-asses it then.

**Halon** · 01-01-2013

Made a little progress today.

**scheides** · 01-01-2013

Nice! Engine out of the car makes it so easy to work on, love this part. Fram oil filter, really?! LOL.

I see a 4x8 sheet of plywood under there, did that work ok with the hoist or did the wheels get caught on it?