beaterX project thread

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Time for a valve job.

[Mark Leasure]

Time for a valve job, maybe some better valves too? Are the factory X valves SS and do they have bronze guides?

[scheides]

Originally Posted by TheBlizzard

Low compression = Moar boost = No more problem

Heh, I did that already, see fall dyno day thread

Originally Posted by Halon

2jz swap. Found you a whole engine for under 1k !

Hell yes!

Originally Posted by Shane@DBPerformance

Time for a valve job.

Originally Posted by Mark Leasure

Time for a valve job, maybe some better valves too? Are the factory X valves SS and do they have bronze guides?

Yea, thats the plan. Gonna get through the holidays and then rip the head off and try to get it fixed asap. The head already has supertech +1mm valves in it, not sure they'd be not good enough...

[Murlo26]

Supertechs are nice ones. They have been solid for me, I have the same ones and those have been through two motors on my car. I don't think quality or durability is the problem, at least with the valves, maybe another weak point?

[Kracka]

What springs do you have Murlo?

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by Kracka

What springs do you have Murlo?

Supertechs.

I was going to do Manley's with my build but for whatever reason the Manley ones for the 4b11 are not "manly" and couldn't support the lift on my cams.

edit: sorry for going OT.

Scheides what springs do you have again? Maybe that is your issue? I doubt it though.

[Kracka]

I think his are the same as yours; that was my initial hypothesis.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Things do just wear out on cars like this. Stiffer springs, more aggressive cam lobes, higher rpms, etc take their toll over time.

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by Shane@DBPerformance

Things do just wear out on cars like this. Stiffer springs, more aggressive cam lobes, higher rpms, etc take their toll over time.

You mean our 600whp+ race cars don't last forever!?

Sad times...bye bye money, bye bye.

But on a serious note, I would've hoped 40k miles would've been more likely but maybe ~20k is just time. That sucks.

[Halon]

Are the supertechs dual springs? I'm not a head guru at all, but I always thought dual springs increased the pressure quite a bit, to the point I personally don't want to run them on a car I put a lot of miles on as I'd imagine that large increase in pressure would start to affect other things like valve seats and what-not. Would rather just run upgraded basic single springs, or beehive single springs if I needed something more than that.

But again, I'm no expert on that type of stuff so maybe I'm way off.

[Murlo26]

They are duals, I needed them though to handle my lift and not many other people have shown any issues with them. But not a lot of people DD with them and get to 20k miles +.

I think Scheides could've used the Kelford springs as they were designed for his cams but the supertechs have proven themselves for power anyway.

GSC also has some now for the X, not sure on the ratings though, I'd guess good enough for 8500rpms+ and their GSC s2's.

[Halon]

Originally Posted by Murlo26

They are duals, I needed them though to handle my lift and not many other people have shown any issues with them. But not a lot of people DD with them and get to 20k miles +.

I think Scheides could've used the Kelford springs as they were designed for his cams but the supertechs have proven themselves for power anyway.

GSC also has some now for the X, not sure on the ratings though, I'd guess good enough for 8500rpms+ and their GSC s2's.

GSC beehives I've always thought were awesome and what I'd buy if I was going all out. Again they are single springs so I think of them being gentler than duals. But they also seem to have extremely light titanium retainers (lighter than most of the competition) which also helps significantly. So you basically get dual spring performance out of a single spring setup.

I can't speak on the Evo X ones they make though, only just in general.

[scheides]

I have supertech duals. Wondering if they were overkill for the setup and caused premature wear? Not sure. Thinking of trying some more basic beehive springs instead this time; the supertechs have always been loud.

[Halon]

Exactly my thought, if you need them because you are reving that high, or running that aggressive of a cam profile, then OK. But if not, and they aren't necessary, a less aggressive spring may be better for longevity. That's where I always kind of thought beehives stood out, better than standard single springs, but gentler than duals.

I'm just a cheap ass and always run cheap Crower style singles and don't run extremely high lift cams, or try to rev to the moon.

[Murlo26]

The X loves to rev high, like a honda basically, so I wanted maximum revs. Especially with the short gearing of the X, more revs helps.

Not sure what Scheides' feelings are but I'd vote to keep the high revs on this car. Just my thoughts, especially with a 2.0L motor.

[Halon]

BTW, I'd be surprised if GSC only rated their springs to 8500rpm. They usually seem to rate their beehive stuff to like 9-10k, even with aggressive cams.

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by Halon

BTW, I'd be surprised if GSC only rated their springs to 8500rpm. They usually seem to rate their beehive stuff to like 9-10k, even with aggressive cams.

The reason I said 8500, I honestly haven't looked, is they only rate their GSC s2 cams on the X up to 8500. Or rather they recommend a rev range of 3500-8500 on them, so not sure what they really means.

You could be right though, I guess I'd have to check.

edit: checked while writing:

Says 9500rpms+ on MAPs website:

http://www.maperformance.com/gsc-pow...l#.UM-HAHfp5Jk

Id go with this springs/retainers if I had to all over again. They weren't out when I bought mine.

[scheides]

Got my ducks in a row, found a deal on some parts and pulled the trigger on a few goodies. You can probably guess what I got, but I'll wait until they're in my hand to say for sure :P

Head came off tonight. 4 hours flat, not bad for a computer dork and the fact that you have to strip the whole side of the engine down to get the timing cover off this thing. I still LOVE the 4b11's timing/oiling design over the 4G63, it is just simple.

Head gasket is clean as a whistle! I think the fact that the open-deck has less surface area between the head and the block lends to less likely headgasket issues, less hydrolic pressure to 'jack' the two apart. Seriously I'll hardly have to clean the block, surface, it's mint.


Bottom end is frickin MINT except for this carbon build-up. Yuck. But, walls are beautiful and pistons are in great shape otherwise!


more:


more build-up in the head too, maybe this is part of what's wrong. Doesn't seem to lend to the clearance problem I came across but it sure could help explain the leakdown results I had.


Day off tomorrow, gonna tear down the head and get it to the machine shop...then pray there are no complications or valve tappets miss-sized.

[mdost03]

Good progress, this thing will be back on the road in no time!

[turbotalon1g]

Man this thing comes apart pretty often.
Will it be making more power then or just where it should be again when you are done?