Dave's Evo X Build/The Life of Dave blog - Page 99

**Kracka** · 04-04-2012

I consider alignments a tune for your suspension; expensive, but well worth the returns.

**Murlo26** · 04-04-2012

Few better shots.

A//// Guy · 04-05-2012

Looks a ton better, any rubbing so far?

**Murlo26** · 04-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by A//// Guy

Looks a ton better, any rubbing so far?

Nope, none

DSM_421 · 04-05-2012

Hey, no more 4x4 look!

Looks mean!

**Halon** · 04-05-2012

Looks much better! I'd watch close over the next couple weeks though to make sure it doesn't rub over time. I thought I was fine on my talon and then on one of our cruises we started to notice a groove in the rubber from rubbing on my fender.

**Murlo26** · 04-05-2012

If it rubs I will just pull/roll it more. I have some pretty good clearance though. Honestly I think I could prolly throw 285's on there now and get away with it, maybe 295's. I don't really need wider tires but I could I think.

turbotalon1g · 04-05-2012

The springs will settle, so if its close now well you get it.

6266 on the way?!! You hardly drive this one, just get a 6466 or 6765 and not waste time.

**Murlo26** · 04-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

The springs will settle, so if its close now well you get it.

6266 on the way?!! You hardly drive this one, just get a 6466 or 6765 and not waste time.

Yea I know they will settle some, so I think it will be perfect when they do. I still think I will have clearance then.

The 6266 was a joke at the "I buy stuff that other people make fun of me for" comment about my turbo being too small

I don't plan on any power modifications this year. Next purchases will be helmet for the track and a GoPro hero2. Then just paying for gas, fluids and insurance hopefully.

**Kracka** · 04-06-2012

Quality springs don't "settle" unless they weren't seated correctly during installation.

**Murlo26** · 04-06-2012

After doing the install, I don't really see how you could not seat them properly though, they have slots where everything sits nicely on the bottom and the top has to align with the bolt holes.

I think all is well, springs work, yay

A//// Guy · 04-06-2012

My Eibachs actually did settle from initial install, not a lot just from driving around a bit. From when you install them, load isnt 100% yet...

turbotalon1g · 04-07-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by A//// Guy

My Eibachs actually did settle from initial install, not a lot just from driving around a bit. From when you install them, load isnt 100% yet...

X3 on a DSM, and a lot on other cars.

**Kracka** · 04-07-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

X3 on a DSM, and a lot on other cars.

I guess I'm just a lot more particular with the assembly than most; I've installed lowering springs on numerous cars and never had one "settle" after initial suspension compression. Oh well, either way, doesn't matter.

**Murlo26** · 04-06-2012

Well found out why the star specs got eaten up...toe was all screwed up in front. Everything feels awesome now! Time to let er rip!

After my alignment was done the car stopped at MAP for them to do my downpipe gasket as I had an oem one and exhaust was leaking between the exhaust stream and O2 dump below wastegate pressure and it was loud all the time. After they fixed a cross threaded bolt that was all good to go, yay! They also fixed my heatshield for me quick. I did screw it up, was using the wrong bolt hole, so they moved it over and bam, it fit

Some bad news, they found my oil leak...its coming from the timing cover

There is RTV there from the motor assembly but it looks like it still leaked through. Mitsu has a TSB for this but I have already had them fix it once so that ain't happening. For now I am just going to watch it, but essentially the head has to come off to fix this leak...FML. MAP was like, anything that we can do to the head to make it worth while? I said not really, its pretty much all done up. The only thing I could think of was put the new timing chain in there so that will wait. Hopefully it stays within reason for a few months as its like a 14 hours (book time) job.

**scheides** · 04-06-2012

Wtf are they talking about? It's the timing cover that leaks. Just pull off the acc belt and pulleys (you know how to do this now!) and unbolt the cover. Clean and apply fresh RTV and re-assemble.

It is def a PITA job but not 14 hours as you do not have to pull the head, just about a billion little bolts holding the cover in place.

Unless the leak is coming from somewhere else?

**Murlo26** · 04-06-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

Wtf are they talking about? It's the timing cover that leaks. Just pull off the acc belt and pulleys (you know how to do this now!) and unbolt the cover. Clean and apply fresh RTV and re-assemble.

It is def a PITA job but not 14 hours as you do not have to pull the head, just about a billion little bolts holding the cover in place.

Unless the leak is coming from somewhere else?

I don't think its the actual timing cover, unless I misunderstood. They said the timing cover has to come off and the head to seal this leak. He said something about two little tabs that stick out on the back of the motor and you need to RTV them and one of those is leaking or something.

Obviously before I do anything I will try to figure out what they were talking about, but regardless, still something is leaking.

**scheides** · 04-06-2012

Oh! Yea I remember now, there's one or two spots on the head that is supposed to get a dab of RTV...where the head and block and cover all meet, front and back. Kinda silly really. Maybe try the tsb yourself? You just sand/clean the area that it's leaking from really good and slather some RTV over the outside of that joint...pretty ghetto but....it works I guess

FattyBoomBatty · 04-06-2012

Buy a vacuum pump and put the crank case in a vacuum, then it won't leak.

**Kracka** · 04-07-2012

Sounds like whoever built/assembled the engine should be responsible for that leak, not you. Any reputable place offers at least a defect warranty. This was ERL or something, right?