Dave's Evo X Build/The Life of Dave blog - Page 153

**Murlo26** · 03-20-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

At your power level, dumping the clutch at 6k RPM, be glad your tires spun. Honda guys do that to keep axles from snapping; if their tires hook w/o spinning, bye-bye axle

There is always going to be a weak-link in the drivetrain, you've already eliminated the clutch, next up is obviously the tires. If you eliminate the tires...what's next?

I guess we will find out. I don't think I should run bad tires to save other stuff, I would rather break shit and upgrade

And actually, my clutch needs attention too. At the track after 2 passes it was hot and locking me out on shifts.

Also, running it this past year to 750whp and 550wtq I think finished it off in terms of doing any racing, still fine for street driving.

I am planning on going to a twin disk but who knows when.

**JET** · 03-20-2014

Yeah, if you are only looking for 1.6-1.7 short times then you can do that on good street tires if you learn to slip the clutch a little. If anything you could run nitto DR's and run them on the street too. I have heard a lot of good things about the new ones.

**Kracka** · 03-21-2014

Lower your tire pressure on the strip too, that will give you a larger contact patch to the ground.

**Murlo26** · 03-21-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Lower your tire pressure on the strip too, that will give you a larger contact patch to the ground.

Oh, I did that, trust. I just was driving like a noob, that was the biggest issue.

Well, maybe I will just aim to get back to track and see what I can do on my current setup, with maybe some new 275's (thinking rivals) and then go from there. I should probably learn to drive better and see what I can get out of the current setup before I assume I need more traction.

turbotalon1g · 03-21-2014

I vote just go to a track and drive, then go from there.

**Murlo26** · 03-21-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

I vote just go to a track and drive, then go from there.

Starting to think that is the best option and it helps its the least money. I am not spending the same kilobucks I once did on this thing, so saving is good.

**goodhart** · 03-21-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

I vote just go to a track and drive, then go from there.

X2

**Murlo26** · 03-21-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

X2

Yea, I am just going to focus on getting it fully functioning again and then just hit the track and see what happens. It probably won't be ideal but oh well.

**goodhart** · 03-21-2014

Won't be ideal, but by actually driving the car you will know how it reacts and what it will need by the feel of the car instead of just speculating.

evotuner · 03-21-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

By actually driving the car you will know how it reacts and what it will need by the feel of the car instead of just speculating.

Couldnt agree more

URV8SUX · 03-22-2014

Have you thought about running some like this that will allow the clutch to slip?

http://tiltonracing.com/product/flow-control-valve/

**Kracka** · 03-22-2014

Evo X has a restrictor pill stock from the factory. Not sure about the guys with 6-puck clutches, but it's almost a must to remove it if you place to drive hard with a full-face disc. Removing the one from my ex-X is what allowed the stock clutch to last so long (71k miles and counting) at 425/400.

evotuner · 03-22-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Evo X has a restrictor pill stock from the factory. Not sure about the guys with 6-puck clutches, but it's almost a must to remove it if you place to drive hard with a full-face disc. Removing the one from my ex-X is what allowed the stock clutch to last so long (71k miles and counting) at 425/400.

Well 71k and....lol

**JET** · 03-23-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by evotuner

Well 71k and....lol

Yeah, that shit can probably stop. Everyone knows what happened and Hughes feels bad enough about it.

evotuner · 03-23-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

Yeah, that shit can probably stop. Everyone knows what happened and Hughes feels bad enough about it.

That was a joke, I have no ill feelings toward Hughes, MAP or anyone involved and wouldnt wish that upon anyone either. If it happened to me I'd expect some laughs as well. If everyone is going to get butthurt about that I'll edit my post or a MOD can delete it.

**JET** · 03-23-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by evotuner

That was a joke, I have no ill feelings toward Hughes, MAP or anyone involved and wouldnt wish that upon anyone either. If it happened to me I'd expect some laughs as well. If everyone is going to get butthurt about that I'll edit my post or a MOD can delete it.

That wasn't me getting butthurt and it also wasn't funny. Since you want to QQ about it, enjoy your week off. ^banned

URV8SUX · 03-24-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Evo X has a restrictor pill stock from the factory. Not sure about the guys with 6-puck clutches, but it's almost a must to remove it if you place to drive hard with a full-face disc. Removing the one from my ex-X is what allowed the stock clutch to last so long (71k miles and counting) at 425/400.

Quote:

Originally Posted by evotuner

Well 71k and....lol

BANNED FOR THIS?^^^

Well if Marlo wants to have the car launch consistently then he would need a tire with a softer sidewall to allow the tire so catch up or something to allow the clutch to slip a little whether it's his foot or a flow control valve.

Personally I think it's easier to to just side step the clutch and allot the tires to do the work.

I believe Magnus makes one that will just slip a litte on the launch.

http://magnusmotorsports.com/product.../#.UzAyve29LCR

But then again what do I know my fwd car only cuts mid 1.5 60fts.

turbotalon1g · 03-24-2014

BECAUSE RACECAR

**Murlo26** · 04-21-2014

Thoughts on IC size for a stock turbo?

ETS only has 3" cores in stock and I was hoping to order a new IC this week.

I was planning to get a new ETS bundle which is there #1 package or some shit.

It comes with the intake, UICP, LICP and the FMIC, all of which I need to get my car running again and its a pretty good deal. ETS recommended to me to go 3.5" even though their 3" is rated at 700HP. They said the extra cooling will be necessary with the extra hot air I will be pushing with the stock turbo at 30psi+. To be honest, I am not sure the stock turbo will make 30psi on my setup as I think it will be maxed out but yea.

So I am struggling on whether to wait on ETS to get more 3.5/4" cores in stock or risk the 3".

Some people i have talked to said just stick with 3", less weight, plenty of cooling for 400whp and cheaper. Others have said you want the bigger IC's for more cooling and denser air etc etc.

I could look at getting a different IC besides the ETS to get a bigger one I guess, but I like simple and ordering a package deal from ETS seems simple and I wanted to do it this week so I can get my car running soon.

Also I have heard conflicting information on pressure drops and what not.

**Kracka** · 04-21-2014

Get AGP's FMIC instead and pair it with Depo's aluminum IC pipes. For real, I've installed a few sets and they are nice; fairly thick aluminum so they don't crush yet are still a fraction of the weight of steel pipes. As far as the AGP FMIC: large core, perfect fitment (I've installed a few), 3" outlet to match the Depo LICP, and cast end-tanks.