OEM VS. Aftermarket Bearings

blageo23 · 11-15-2005

For a 6Bolt. From mitsu I can get main and rod bearings for $150. Or I can get Clevite ones for $100 from SBR. What would you guys get? Tell me about bearings and what to get cuz I have no clue.
Thanks,
Mike

**JET** · 11-15-2005

I have not been impressed with the Clevites. I would go with ACL or Kings. I have ACL's in my car and they were pretty nice. Clevites have a lot of burrs on them that you have to clean up.

niterydr · 11-15-2005

Or you could buy kings from me for $85 which are better than clevites and oem's.
Just let me know the size.

Jakey · 11-15-2005

Anyone use Calico bearings?

blageo23 · 11-15-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

Or you could buy kings from me for $85 which are better than clevites and oem's.
Just let me know the size.

Is that both the Rod and Main Bearings? If so Then Id probably buy those. Maybe when I get My engine apart I can bring the Crank in there and you can tell me if it need to be resurfaced or whatever.

niterydr · 11-16-2005

Bring the crank buy and we'll set you straight.
Odds are it atleast needs a micropolish, and then to just order bearings to size.
Thats for rods and mains.

niterydr · 11-16-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakey

Anyone use Calico bearings?

How are those clevites I sent you doing?
Use them to shim a coffee table or something?

Jakey · 11-16-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

How are those clevites I sent you doing?
Use them to shim a coffee table or something?

They're sitting on top of my dresser still in the box with the throttle body. I haven't figured out yet what I'm going to use them for.

dsmdude · 11-22-2005

or you can order clevite and pay for clevite through sbr like i did and they will send you some cheap no name crap bearings instead. then when you call them back and ask them why they sent you the wrong ones you can listen to them tell you how these crappy ass no name bearings "are softer" and "better" than the clevites (aka because we have these in stock and we send you whatever we feel like sending you)

ohh yea, for the question asked- i have used topline, cleavite, and acl with good luck and always use standard size or get a different good crank. i've heard of some horror stories when cutting down the 4g63 cranks something about the outer few thousanths of material being nitrate hardened or something.

sleepydsm · 11-22-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsmdude

or you can order clevite and pay for clevite through sbr like i did and they will send you some cheap no name crap bearings instead. then when you call them back and ask them why they sent you the wrong ones you can listen to them tell you how these crappy ass no name bearings "are softer" and "better" than the clevites (aka because we have these in stock and we send you whatever we feel like sending you)

ohh yea, for the question asked- i have used topline, cleavite, and acl with good luck and always use standard size or get a different good crank. i've heard of some horror stories when cutting down the 4g63 cranks something about the outer few thousanths of material being nitrate hardened or something.

Cant you just get it re-nitrided? Isn't that one supposed way to "fix" crankwalk? New bearings, nitride coat the 2g crank, blah blah

niterydr · 11-22-2005

DSMDUDE-The factory 4g63 CAST crank can be reground just fine. Re-nitriting is recommended, and the cast should work just fine. I have had personal experience with a few renitrated cranks that have been undercut and they work just fine.
Is a factory crank that isn't undercut nice? Yes, is it required, not always when on a budget.

dsmdude · 11-22-2005

how much does the regrind cost with the nitrate? a good used crank is like 50 bucks wouldn't this be cheaper than the undercut?

i could see doing it possibly with the 2.4l as it is getting harder to find the 2.4 blocks and cranks.

dsmdude · 11-22-2005

i would do it more for piece of mind. even if it did cost a little more at least that is 1 less thing the machine shop has the possibility of screwing up. curious- how much does the grind job usually go for?

niterydr · 11-23-2005

Typically grinding runs about $90 bucks, I think the nitrating is $100-200ish (I am thinking $100, but it could be more, not sure)...so you are looking at roughly $200 into the crank. Sometimes its cost effective, sometimes not, just depends upon the availability of cranks. Compared to a good used crank, not cost effective, compared to a new crank from mitsubishi at list price? yes its cheaper.

**JET** · 11-23-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

DSMDUDE-The factory 4g63 CAST crank can be reground just fine. Re-nitriting is recommended, and the cast should work just fine. I have had personal experience with a few renitrated cranks that have been undercut and they work just fine.
Is a factory crank that isn't undercut nice? Yes, is it required, not always when on a budget.

Me thinks the Swanster should check again, as the 4G63 cranks are forged, not cast. Almost all import cranks are forged, most american cranks are cast though.

niterydr · 11-23-2005

Uhh..Jet, I am not sure what you put in your motor, maybe an Eagle forged crank or something, but I am pretty damm sure they are cast. Actually I KNOW they are cast. They are a good casting, but they are cast. Go look at the casting marks on a crank and tell me that is from forging. The 1993+ 3000gt vr4 cranks are forged. I don't remember about other cars from the top of my head.
I dunno, I've only delt with about a hundred 4g63/4g64 cranks, maybe I've just missed all the forged ones.

Just giving ya shit buddy, everyone makes mistakes.
Back to on topic:
Did you ever figure out your bearing situation Mike?

Pushit2.0 · 11-25-2005

I thought the 4g63 cranks were cast, and I have looked all over the net, Only to find ither they are cast or forged. There are a number of people saying both for the 4g63/4g64, ither forged or cast. I hit a cast crank(spare 3/s crank we know is cast, and a spare DSM crank) lightly with a hammer and they sound almost the same. Then we tried Ryans forged 3/s crank and that was a higher pitch ring. Also the casting or parting line in the crank is another way to tell. A cast crank has a thin or "sharp" ridge to it and a forged crank has a flat and wide parting line. So ither way the DSM crank is good for all the power the block can handle, if its forged or not.

~John