Building a motor, where to start?

[turbotalon1g]

So I have my old block at home and a 2.4 crank. I'm wanting to slowly collect parts for it but I'm not sure where to start.

I want to build a basic eagle/ross or wiseco motor, nothing fancy.
I do wish to use a kiggly main girdle as well.

I believe my next step is to clean the block and get it checked out so I know what bore pistons to get.

Can anyone confirm this? I was told that I'd have to get the block align honed (?) if i get teh kiggly girdle.

Thanks
Aaron

[golden763]

Have to get the block line honed if u use main studs which is required for the girdle

[C3L1CA]

Who is going to do the machine work? I'd give them a call and see what they recommend.

[URV8SUX]

Motors by Gosh. (763) 898-3992

[turbotalon1g]

Thanks dudes.

[CornFed2.4]

When I did my girdle and arp mains I align honed mine. I'm positive it's required.

I got my stuff done at gosh. No complaints as of now.

[Goat Blower]

Yep, Gosh can do all that. You'll want to give him the pistons so he can bore with the appropriate cylinder to wall clearance, book specs are good enough, he checks each piston. You'll want the usual stuff you hear about, align hone the mains because of the girdle, torque plate hone the cylinders, sonic bath, new freeze plugs, etc. He can do the assembly, but it's not that hard, follow the manual closely and ask questions if needed.

You'll need to clearance a 2.0 block depending on the rods you get, you'll do that after machining and such, but you could also probably do it just dropping the 2.4 crank in the block with junk bearings, bolt up the old rods and pistons and add a few mm to how much you'd take out with the thickness of stock rods. I probably have a few aftermarket rods laying around you could mock up with.

Other things like keeping or removing the oil squirters, BS's, stuff like that is all pretty self explanatory.

[Goat Blower]

I also remove some casting flash from the water and oil ports off the deck, clean up the water passages on the side of the block and remove and casting flash high points on the main webs. I also needle gun the outside of the block to remove rust and dirt to pretty it up for paint.

[4seasons69]

Bring to map and have them build it...

[turbotalon1g]

Thanks, I was going to remove all the flash from the block as much as I can and get the inside of the block nice.

Won't I need to get the block checked before I buy pistons though so that I know if I need .020" or .040".

I'd like to assemble it myself with help from friends, its just an experience that I'd like.

Sounds like I need to pick up a girdle and main studs first for sure.

[4seasons69]

Or just buy my block hahaha

in all seriousness I would say have it checked so you know what size pistons to get.
I when my engine was built they had to line bore it for the girdle

[Tachyon]

You bore the block to the pistons you buy, rather than buying pistons to the bore.

Decide what heat range you are building the motor for, buy .020 over pistons (if it's a true stock block), calculate your PWC based on the metal alloy expansion calculated from your intended heat range, then have Gosh bore to that spec.

[Goat Blower]

Actually, you have to know if the block is .020" over already, so you do need to measure it, but you can do that yourself with a cheap caliper. Most aftermarket pistons for DSM's come in .020"(.5mm) or .040"(1mm) although I've heard of going up to .060" for that mythical 2.7L build from a decade ago.

[turbotalon1g]

As far as I know its a stock motor, I thought that you check the cyl. bore then machine to whatever it needs then throw in pistons.

I'm gonna need some assistance on these one. In better news, it appears wiseco HDs are down a bit in price at 10.5:1 comp!!

[Goat Blower]

If it's never been bored before, you order .020" over Wisecos, the honing is where the final cylinder wall to piston clearance comes in generally. I put those 10.5:1 HD's in my Evo, that car was a monster on the street. I wouldn't mind upping my compression on the GSX, but I'm having fun just driving around on good old pump.

[turbotalon1g]

[4seasons69]

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

So New HD's retail for $520, but I found a set of .040" for $340 BNIB...
What's a girl to do?

I wouldn't go 0.040 over right off the bat unless you have to. If you have a engine failure that marks up the cylinder walls and you're already 0.040 your block will be junk. That's just my opinion though.

But that's a good price!

[JET]

Yep, grab a caliper and check out what the bore is now, then go .020" over what it is. If it is stock then go .020" over. Not much work you can do to it besides collect parts since you aren't building it yourself.

[goodhart]

Ok since I am in sort of the same situation here I'll add/ask something.

What benefits are there to doing a torque plate hone? I know its recommended when boring, but how bout on a hone on a stock bore motor? Or more specifically a stockish rebuild? (2g piston/1g rod motor) Is it really needed? Or would a normal machine hone or even just a bottle hone do the trick? I'm just looking to do things right the first time and be done with it. I am also looking to assemble it myself like brownman is.

[JET]

It is not needed on a hone. The hone is not really taking much material off, just scuffing the walls up.