bad idea or terrible idea? - Page 5

**scheides** · 11-06-2008

Run it! You can always upgrade later!

Kevin 1G Drummer · 11-06-2008

Just run the 14b at 18 pounds or so. It should be fun till you can find a decent upgrade

iceminion · 11-07-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by User Name

What issues are you running into on the kit?

I have ABS, and they clearly say that it will fit... i think i will be ok with a 2G throttle body elbow and a longer coupler.

Also the AC is very much in the way.

And you need to loop the power steering cooler.

Got the turbo on tonight with the stock "fire" ring in it between the hotside and the manifold. (leaks less when installed)

**scheides** · 11-07-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceminion

Got the turbo on tonight with the stock "fire" ring in it between the hotside and the manifold. (leaks less when installed)

WEAK! If you're gonna run a 14b, you gotta port the shit out of it!

iceminion · 11-07-2008

i really don't have a grinder...plus im going to be using a stock 2G manifold.

I do have a 7cm SBR cast manifold, so all i would need is a mitsu flanged turbo with a 7 cm inlet.....anyone have one? I have 2.4 blocks and cranks, willing to trade...

Ill ask modern, I traded them 3x 4g63's back in the day for a used SC61, back before I built engines.

iceminion · 11-09-2008

Well, I got the new motor put in there, hooked up the bare minimum to get the car running...wouldnt turn on at first, no firing...forgot to plug in the Power transistor because the intake mani is off a 90, so I dug around and found a 91+ plugged it in, turned right on!

Really lumpy... 272's are pretty ugly sounding in a closed garage.

>>>>>WhAT ArE GOLDen FLaKeS Doing ON my DIPSTICK?<<<<

they could be from the massive quantities of coppercoat i used during assembly, but i have a sneaking suspicion that this engine that I got from andy is bad....so im gonna ask him to help me do this next engine swap if it turns out to be bad

this car is a nightmare! it is bankrupting me!

I'll bet this thing thinks it can win....little does it know that I am far to stupid to give up on a lost cause

UPDATE: after several minutes of run-time the flakes are gone. I still need to get the car buttoned up and boost on it for a bit before I can trust the engine. Maybe I used an oil pan from a motor with spun bearings...thank god for Napa Gold (wix) filters! (im gonna cut this filter up and look at what kind of shit is in there after I switch over to synthetic)

bluedeath · 11-09-2008

Quote:

I'll bet this thing thinks it can win....little does it know that I am far to stupid to give up on a lost cause

i think our cars have the same idea...are we related? lol

iceminion · 11-10-2008

its freaken strange....the brass flakes are GONE. I will know more after i get a couple miles on the car and drain/inspect the oil.

i have a couple of theories:

1.Copper-coat spray and dirty oil pan/oil cooler were contaminated with flakes and in my haste to get this bitch together I did not clean adequately before assembly.

2. Engine bearings were/are damaged due to shit/rocks/sand getting pumped through the engine on initial startup. Now the shit is gone, filtered out, but the damage to the bearings is either:
a. Not bad - the engine will run great forever
b. Bad - the engine will spin a bearing after several miles of driving

3. The bearings are bad, and they will grind themselves to death after several miles.

again, i will know more over the next couple days

Kevin 1G Drummer · 11-10-2008

You should have drained the oil as soon as you noticed the shit in the oil. By running it like that you're just asking for trouble.

joesushi · 11-10-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin_1G_Drummer

You should have drained the oil as soon as you noticed the shit in the oil. By running it like that you're just asking for trouble.

CORRECT! Oh, wait his car probably has an oil filter. lol. nvm.

niterydr · 11-11-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by joesushi

CORRECT! Oh, wait his car probably has an oil filter. lol. nvm.

Oil filters can fill up quickly with crap.

iceminion · 11-11-2008

I highly doubt that a handfull of metal flakes would clog a napa gold, they have alot more filtering materal then stock filters....which by themselves is overkill.

car idled to operating temp this morning, still has a CEL

niterydr · 11-11-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceminion

I highly doubt that a handfull of metal flakes would clog a napa gold, they have alot more filtering materal then stock filters....which by themselves is overkill.

car idled to operating temp this morning, still has a CEL

Good to hear it is running okay, well at least idling. I was mearly stating why the filters are a good idea to be changed out. But I guess with your vast knowledge base you knew that.

Sorry for the inconvience I have caused you o great one.

joesushi · 11-11-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

Good to hear it is running okay, well at least idling. I was mearly stating why the filters are a good idea to be changed out. But I guess with your vast knowledge base you knew that.

Sorry for the inconvience I have caused you o great one.

Why it would be so important to change the oil filter in the first place, IF the engine is spitting up enough metal shavings(from the bearings) to clog the filter lol. I guess if you didn't hear any noise and kept driving, managing not to SEIZE the crank, there would be enough to clog the filter and the bypass would open. The oil would then start to distribute the metal to the cams and lifters.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 11-11-2008

Let's see.... $25 for a filter and oil, or $200 to rebuild a motor on the cheap end... Choice seems obvious to me...

joesushi · 11-11-2008

I think you missed what I was getting at. When bearings go out enough to clog a filter there will be a horrendous noise way before the filter is compromised, right? At that point a rebuild is required. At that point you are telling me to do an oil change?

Kevin 1G Drummer · 11-11-2008

I'm saying the oil change could have drastically reduced the chances you'll have to rebuild.

iceminion · 11-12-2008

Ok, kevin, what you are saying is:

Crap in oil = Change oil, or your engine will be ruined from the chunks

now that might seem ok to the n00b mechanic, i must insist that

crap in oil = GREAT

under the CONTEXT that i just put this engine together in a messy garage with messy parts.

remember all of the oil that gets pumped to the bearings/head/squirters goes through a oil filter.

Yes, oil filters have bypass valves, but thats only under extreme circumstances.

Chunks of crap in oil does not = oil change
chunks of crap = keep driving, all of your oil has not cycled through your filter yet.

And to those who think that filters get clogged....um....no, completely incorrect, under the context of < 10,000 miles on the oil change

Eventually the carbon content of the oil increases and the lubrication properties break down to the point of not being safe for the bearings....

But again, that is around 10,000 miles

BTW: I drove it around the block tonight, lots of smoke, no more flakes in oil.

jhaan_dude · 11-12-2008

i bet if you change the oil everyone will shut up about it....

niterydr · 11-12-2008

Oil cycles thru the engine pretty quickly guys, but what would I know...

Whatever. I am sure it will turn out great like every other project has.