Engine Building-What Products?

blageo23 · 10-28-2006

Im researching prices on engine parts but dont know what to go with.
Shortblock: (2.4L)
Im set on eagle rods, wiseco pistons(8.7:1), Mitsu Front cover and BS elim.
What Bearings are good?
ARP mains or stock?

Head:
Im set on 5 Angle Vavle Job, HKS 280 cams, Greddy Cam Gears, Cometic HG and ARP Headstuds.
Im thinking Manley 1mm over valves, Manley Springs and retainers, New mitsu Rockers, New "revised" Lifters.
Do I need better Valve guides, Vavle stem seals, Keepers?

Also Over all are the parts I am set on good? Whats a good local machine shop(shoreview)? Ive been trying to research this and cant really find a solid answer.

Thanks,
Mike

**1ViciousGSX** · 10-28-2006

Power level you are building for? 1g or 2g head?

Stay with stock main bolts (new only please).

I hear good and back about the Weisco pistons. Buy the Magnus designed Ross pistons 8.5-9.0:1cp and set them at their recommended clearnce.

Never tried the Manley valve train on an import. I have Supertech components with no problems yet.

I'm on my second Cometic HP HG, I pushed the first one a little too hard. If this one starts to go, I'll switch over to the HKS "Stopper" HG.

blageo23 · 10-28-2006

Power level... I have no idea. Anywhere from 300-600 haha. Its a 1G head with a 6bolt 2.4l.

Super Bleeder!! · 10-28-2006

sounds almost identical to my setup. i used new stock mains, new front case, eagles, wisecos, 272s, arp headstuds, cometic non-hp HG, crower springs and ti retainers with stock size SS valves.

all that in a 2g head though, hyundai bottom end.

like you are doing, i did some research and just went with proven parts. i'm not trying to set any records here, i just want a running motor.

**v8klla** · 10-28-2006

Sounds like you are on the right track, as far as bearings go we prefer King or ACL which we get a pretty good deal on btw

As far as main studs we have made over 650whp without them. It also saves you the cost of getting it align honed which is a must if you go that route.

blageo23 · 10-28-2006

Chris could you send me a price on the above listed parts at you convenience. Thanks! Thanks for your input guys.

**Halon** · 10-29-2006

MAP built me a motor comparable to what you're looking for. I went 2.0 with mahle pistons, eagle rods, King Bearings, Stock Mains, Cometic HG, crower springs/retainters, stock valves, 272's, etc. So far so good.

niterydr · 10-29-2006

Are you going to be doing the assembly?
I would recommend King or ACL bearings (I've been using them for 2+ years without problems).
A turned down balance shaft is a good option, it gives you the rear bearing support.
ARP Mains are nice, but the stockers hold plenty of power. Since I have seen stock motors that aren't "perfect" we have all of our blocks inspected and most of them atleast honed. You get what you pay for when it comes to engines and machine work. I would highly recommend having the block machined with a torque plate.

Any stainless steel valve will be happier in a brass valve guide. We have had excellent success with SI products.
If you need help fell free to send myself or John a pm. Combined I think we have the most 4g63/mitsubishi high performance engine experience (motor assembly, machining, parts research and development) in the twin cities. (Minus a few machine shops that have been used by multiple shops. The assembly techniques are not the same, but they do know what "we" like to see for machining tolerances).

blageo23 · 10-29-2006

I will be doing the engine build myself. After taking the class at school it brought up my confidence a bit to do it myself AGAIN. Maybe this one will make it past the 1000 mile mark! Thanks for the advise.
Josh, and Chris as Im doing prices right now could you send me prices on the listed parts above at your convenience. That would be great!

**JET** · 10-29-2006

Be sure to have them set the valve guides a little under stock height. That will give you room for big cams. Go like .050" under just for good measure. Mine were all over the place when I got mine back, I took it back and had them redo it.

I have an almost identical engine. Wiseco 8.8's, eagles, ACL bearings, ported head with Crower springs, Fidanza cam gears, SI 1mm over SS nitride coated valves. You will be really happy with the setup.

blageo23 · 10-29-2006

Ive thought about it alot more and I think right now I am going to scrap the head project. Right now I just want my car up and running so I can actually drive it.
Will the stock head be ok with a 2.4? The head was just rebuilt.

**JET** · 10-29-2006

Yeah, just toss the cams in it and probably springs/retainers. All that will transfer into a new head too.

**v8klla** · 10-30-2006

That head will work, you will need the dohc 2.4l cam gears and timing belt though. I sent you a pm about the parts as well.

Oh, and in case you didn't already know when it comes to 4g63/4g64 engine building we have made 686whp on a 4g64 and ran 11.08 @ 134.77 on a stroker 4g63 running 25 psi on E85. Proven results speak for themselves...

Chris

niterydr · 10-30-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by blageo23

I will be doing the engine build myself. After taking the class at school it brought up my confidence a bit to do it myself AGAIN. Maybe this one will make it past the 1000 mile mark! Thanks for the advise.
Josh, and Chris as Im doing prices right now could you send me prices on the listed parts above at your convenience. That would be great!

Mike-What parts are you looking for?
King bearings, $85/set, any size you need. This is for Mains and rods.
Wiesco Pistons.
Part number K564M87. This is the 4g64 piston. .020" overbore. 8.5-8.7 comp ratio. Standard pin (you will be fine with a stock piston pin for the power levels you are looking for, upgraded pins can be purchased for around $9 a piece). LSE Performance price $449.99 plus tax.
Eagle rods.
Part number: CRS5900MA3D. This is the 6 bolt 4g63 standard length rod.
LSE Performance price $309.99 plus tax.

ARP Head studs. 207-4201
6 bolt un-cut. $94.99 Complete set with studs, nuts, washers, and arp moly lube.
ARP Main studs. 207-5401
ARP Mains. $64.99. Complete set with Studs, nuts, washers, and arp moly lube.

Now on your motor, I would recommend to switch to a 4g63 cap style or to "pin" the caps. If you have any more questions feel free to call or pm. Finally you can re-degree your stock cam gears or purchase new ones from a DOHC 2.4 7 bolt galant. Last time I checked I think the cam gears were $40ish each? I don't remember, Jet would.

niterydr · 10-30-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by v8klla

That head will work, you will need the dohc 2.4l cam gears and timing belt though. I sent you a pm about the parts as well.

Oh, and in case you didn't already know when it comes to 4g63/4g64 engine building we have made 686whp on a 4g64 and ran 11.08 @ 134.77 on a stroker 4g63 running 25 psi on E85. Proven results speak for themselves...

Chris

You have a pm regarding "proof".

Pushit2.0 · 10-30-2006

The 1g head should work just fine, head work if done right will help later for sure, I would deck the head and have a valve job done to start. Also I would buy ARP mains and have the block line honed, because the 6bolt 2.4s use individual main caps, the 7bolt 2.4 has a main girdle and stock main bolts and a line hone would be good for most applications with a main girdle.

~John

blageo23 · 10-30-2006

Thank you guys for the Prices!Those are the parts I was looking for.

The head I have now has like 1000 miles on it, Got a 3 angle valve job, valve seals, one new valve and I got it decked.

I have heard a little bit about the "pin" for the caps, Could you tell me what that is. Also if I ask the machine shop to do it will they know what im talking about?

Also whats a good machine shop for DSMs? I brought my head to Motors By Gosh and I was happy with the service I got. But is there any other place. LSE and MAP where do you bring yours?

niterydr · 10-30-2006

The pinning is something we do and unfortunally is only available thru us. It involves making sure that the main caps can't move. Something needed on the HIGH HP items. (good safety item for someone that spares no expense on machine work).
Another item that is available only thru us is the turned down balance shaft. I did a HUGE batch so they are available at $60. We have the counter weights machine off. This gives you the lightness and the rear bearing support, best of both worlds!

I've used Motor's by Gosh before, they do pretty good work. John is a good guy. I heard he went to the Carquest in Ramsey,but might be re-starting his shop in Forest Lake now?
I have a few other sources that I wish to not disclose at this time.

The performance gains on a 3 vs 5 angle valve job are noticeable but usually not worth the additional port work required to make it worth while. As long as you have good quality valve seals, proper valve stem and valve guide install heights, and the head is flat, I would run with it. The DSM head flows VERY well for an oem product.

Jakey · 10-30-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

The pinning is something we do and unfortunally is only available thru us. It involves making sure that the main caps can't move. Something needed on the HIGH HP items. (good safety item for someone that spares no expense on machine work).

What's the difference between the LSE process and Quinn Whipple's CRCO process?
http://www.crco.com/

Mike, personally, if you want to dig deep into the main cap issue, I would drop Kevin Kwiatkowski an e-mail:
http://www.kigglyracing.com/Main_Girdle.htm
What are you going to run for a turbo?

niterydr · 10-30-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakey

What's the difference between the LSE process and Quinn Whipple's CRCO process?
http://www.crco.com/

Mike, personally, if you want to dig deep into the main cap issue, I would drop Kevin Kwiatkowski an e-mail:
http://www.kigglyracing.com/Main_Girdle.htm
What are you going to run for a turbo?

Very similar process, we just have had our own set of bushing made up with slightly different tolerances.
The kiggly main girdle solution looks interesting, I've just never seen it first hand.