Kenne Bell boost a pump wiring

**asshanson** · 04-05-2012

About to install my KB boost a pump, had a few questions from people who have installed them in the past. I am going to mount it inside my rear fender well next to the pump harness, but I have a two questions. Yes, I know my car is different than an Evo or DSM, but electronics remain pretty much the same.

1. The BAP only includes a few inches of wiring on both input and output. Do you think it's worth it to run a bigger wire direct from battery (with fuse close to battery of course) as the input to the BAP, and use the stock power wire as a relay switch? I'm thinking this will give it a slightly higher supply voltage which will in turn up the output voltage, if only by 1 volt, which might matter if I'm close to maxing out the pump. Is this sound logic? Or does the boost a pump deliver 17.5 volts regardless of input voltage? I'm not sure how the internal circuitry works.

2. The other thing I was curious about was the second long wire to the adjustable voltage regulator. I've seen many posts about just cutting this off and soldering/crimping the two internal wires together, and just bypassing the controller altogether. Will this give the full 50% boost that the controller would give if set that way? People say it's a safety measure so that the controller doesn't accidentally become unhooked or get dialed down, resulting in a lean condition. Is this also correct?

**scheides** · 04-05-2012

How much more fuel are you gonna need? I'd say start with the standard wiring setup. Running dedicated power wires ends up complicating things and will make troubleshooting that much harder.

Be sure to install the 30a fuse in the stock fuel feed/fuse box.

Definitely ditch the dial box, all the reasons you listed are good enough, but in top of that they simply fail (the dial). I just bought an RCA plug from RadioShack and soldered the connectors together on the inside. I started with the dial box and tweaking it and honestly it didn't make enough of a difference for me unless it was set at full.

**scheides** · 04-05-2012

Here's some pics of my setup:
http://www.scheides.com/gallery/evoX?page=20

I had to run extra leads from the BAP to the actual pump and back, just spliced into the wiring just before the pump.

I'm not positive but I would assume that the BAP unit itself can get a little toasty. Just something to consider when mounting it.

C3L1CA · 04-05-2012

I wouldn't bother running an extended power wire either, seems like a lot of work and you don't know if it would even do anything. I've never seen or heard of anybody else running an extra wire and they seem to work ok.

I had my voltage regulator break so I would reccomend crimping the two internal wires together. When the car was on the dyno the a/f were super choppy and leaner than it should be, I thought it was my crappy gm maf. Two maf's later I still had the same problem, crimpped the two wires together and the car went pig rich and a/f were stable. Easy way to just play it safe

Pushit2.0 · 04-05-2012

I have not installed a BAP on a c6 yet but the c5 cars it goes in the engine bay under the fuse box and works great. The c5 vettes have twin pumps from the factory and use a good sized wire, unlike the 20+ year old Mitsubishi technology.

You are not changing the fuel pumps or wire so resistance (ohms) stays the same and as you increase voltage you are going to make the fuel pump spin faster, as load in the pump increases it will draw more amps. So if you are using more fuel then the pump can supply you loose fuel pressure, by upping the volts and fuel pump rpm you get more fuel but if your fuel pressure does not go up a ton the fuel pump draw should be about the same.

I would look at instructions for a magnasen (spelling?) Super charger on your car and if they use a BAP fallow there instruction.

**asshanson** · 04-05-2012

Thanks for the input guys, guess I will just wire it up normally, and crimp the RCA connector wires. I have instructions for the C6 already, seems pretty straightforward.

http://www.aacorvette.com/pdf/aa_bap_install.pdf

toddrhodes · 04-09-2012

Thanks to this thread I wired in my KB BaP in about five minutes in my pretty-stripped 2G. I have a rewire already, so I just took off the "pump supply" line and used that to feed the KB. Grounded it at the same spot, and then used the output of the KB to feed the pump (the lead I pulled from the 30A relay output). Still need to plumb in the hobbs switch but that should be easy enough. She started right up - thanks for that link!

On a side note, I got the KB used and I think the guy I bought it from had it hooked up wrong. He was apparently using the rheostat/knob, but after seeing so many threads about just tying those two wires together, it was odd to see that he had spliced together the wires for the hobbs switch. Soooo, if I understand correctly, his KB never even "turned on" since it never saw positive pressure. I got a great deal on it too, score for me?

**scheides** · 04-09-2012

Yes, score! Make sure it works though :P

toddrhodes · 04-09-2012

Agreed - it looks brand new, almost as if the main unit was never screwed down. The bracket for the knob still had the stock sticker on it for the mounting tape and what not. Should be fine, and pretty easy to test if I just feed a few pounds of air into the system with the car off and the pump running. I should know tomorrow