It's just not on the cam gears. I marked the belt and cams so I know where they line up. The rest of the timing belt is still ran throughout. But it's not on the cams. I need to loosen up the tension to slip it over the cam gears
No not totally off. It's still ran throught all the pulleys, just not on the cam gears. I marked the belt and the gears so I know where they are supposed to be lined up at, but I need to loosen up the tension so I can slip it up over the cam gears. So I need the tool. Where is the best place to pick one up at? The dealer I'm assuming?
I would have got the tool first. Hopefully the belt didn't slip on the crank pulley. I don't trust leaving the belt on and doing it that way anymore. Every time I have done that its been a tooth off and I have to redo it anyway.
I got pretty fast at doing it so I just put the tensioner tool in and then remove the whole belt. Then just put it back on and line everything up and remove the tensioner tool. Then rotate the motor 6 times until the dowl pins are at the top and make sure everything is perfect.
I don't think its saves much time leaving the belt on if you are quick at lining shit up.
Jet and Nash have one of those tools if they can find it.
Yea Brandon you might not want to take the chance of letting the timing belt get loose and misalign itself on the crank pulley. I would make sure everything is lined up, just pop the timing covers off and take a look.
If you timing was off a couple of teeth in the first place, that could be the cause of your knock. I was getting lots of knock when my timing belt skipped a couple teeth, but then again I could hear audible knock after a bit of driving like that- eek.
Ya, the tool goes in nice and quick when I use my air socket. When I used to use a ratchet, there was so little room in there so it'd take me 15 minutes at times until I got that damn thing in there. But with the air socket, takes a good 45 seconds! You're probably right, I will line it all up again to be safe. But either way I need this tool. I'll give Jet a ring!
OK well after spending what seemed like all day, I finally found this freakin timing tensioner tool. In case anyone needs to know for the future, this tool is made by Miller Tools. No store locally could find anything with a part number MD998738 which is the part number all the DSM sites tell you. I ended up finding a site http://www.spxmiller.com/
and calling them, and they have it. So it's on order and I'll get it in the mail someday. I'm suprised nobody on here had one that I could borrow for 2 hours though. Oh well, now I'll have my own.
SPX is the same as OTC, they are based out of Owatonna.
I totally missed this thread, I could have gotton you the part number for both tools, as we have 2 sets in the shop. (threaded rod and tensioner tool x 2)
Good luck.
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My street car runs low 11's and my race car's personal best is a mid 11....
Yes but that number is no where in the OTC catalog apparently. I did dig around, and found some OTC number 6001 which was supposed to be the same as the miller one, but nobody could get that either. I tried Autozone, Checker, 2 different Napas, nobody could help me. They even called the company directly (so they say) and couldn't get any answers. But whatever, it'll be here next week now or something. I'm taking out my timing belt right now and going to just throw a new one in now while i got this shit apart.
Well I got it all done today. Started her up, and it was ticking a lot which I expected because I just cleaned the lifters so they aren't full of oil yet. I heard that the ticking should eventually go away, well after letting it idle for 20 minutes, then taking it on a 10 minute drive, it's still ticking quite a bit. So I just said fuck it and just bought a set of the revised 3mm hole lifters. I'm going to see if I can put these in without removing the cams, cuz I really don't want to do it all over again.
But I put in a new timing belt, so I suppose that's a positive!!!
Well the ticking has gone mostly away, but I can still hear it slightly. I will hopefully get the new lifters next week sometime. I bought one of those sets off ebay that are going for 105 for an entire set. Seemed like a damn good price. He said he'll ship them monday so I should have them next week sometime. The car is still knocking like a bastard like it's been doing. I put 5 gallons of that 111 octane in there today, probably had about 3 gallons of 92 still in the tank. Eitherway it didn't do a damn thing, so I suppose that is pretty much telling me this is some BS knock, not the real thing. We'll see how the lifters work out. Hopefully that's my cure!
And also I made a gasket for my O2/Downpipe connection as It was leaking pretty bad and was stupid loud, and I thought it could possibly somehow be affecting the knock. That quieted her down nicely! Now I just gotta make gaskets for the rest of the turbo back!
If you can't hear your lifters ticking real bad I would guess that its not your phantom knock problem. If the new lifters don't fix it, I would replace the knock sensor again even though its pretty new.
Well I got the lifters and the timing tool today in the mail. Installed the new lifters, went to crank it up, and something was wrong. Didn't want to start, it did start once but it sputtered horribly and died. Compression test showed 150-0-0-150, and the 2 spark plugs that came out of there looks really wet. I am not sure what went wrong as I've done about a dozen timing belt jobs before, and just the other week went over it all again with Craig. But anywho, head is coming off because I'm guessing something is fucked up in there. Kinda sucks since I was hoping to get it up today, and to the shop to be painted.
But on the bright side, I guess this will be my opportunity to get my some better springs and retainers in put in!
When I replaced them, I didn't do the VFAQ way which involves prying out the rockers so you don't have to take off the timing belt. I did take off the timing belr, removed the cams, took the lifters out, compressed the new ones, dropped them in, reinstalled everything. I really don't know what went wrong here. The only thing I can think of is maybe I didn't get all the oil out of a couple of the lifters when I compressed them, and they somehow pumped up really fast and caused a some valves to hit. But even now, I can still press the lifters in pretty easy with my finger now that I took the cams back out, so I don't know. And while I was taking this all back apart, I rechecked my timing marks, and they are all fine. I will have the head off here in a little bit hopefully. I had it all detached yesterday, but couldn't lift it off by myself. So I will be picking up a hoist today to help me out!
Oh and yes I took the valve cover off to see if any rockers were cocked or popped off, and they were all fine. It's really wierd, I don't get it.
OK WTF!! I took the head off, everything looks to be absolutely fine. I mean I suppose there could be something really minor in there, but I'd think if it's something so small that I can't see it that I'd still get a little bit of compression, like 25 or something. I'm getting straight up 0, and the head looks to be perfectly fine. Pistons look great, you can tell I just did the MCCC cleaning on them! I guess I'll get the head pressure tested atleast while it's out just to be sure, but jeez this is just retarded.
Just got a call back from Red Rooster. He said a lot of the valves are leaking, and they marked which ones are leaking. I'm going to pick it up from them later and decide what to do exactly. So my only guess as to what happened was that some of the lifters were too pumped up still, and I should have bled them better, and resulted in a some valve bendage!
I am trying to decide what to do. I'm thinking somewhere along the lines of just giving the head a good refreshing. Just order all new valves, and get some stiffer springs put in for when I install the new cams. I don't want to go too crazy with it because my goal is 400hp, and i think a nice refreshed head with stiffer springs is plenty for that goal.
I thought you ordered some Crower springs/retainers already? Maybe just sent it off to FFWD (or your head shop of choice) and get a "Level 1" upgrade; it should fit nicely with your goals at a decent price.
I am ordering the springs from FFWD, they just didn't have any of the crowers in stock, and so I was planning on ordering them once I return. But that actually is a great idea to just send it to them, I'm going to ask Darren about that. They seem like the have a nice thing going there, Darren is always willing to answer my questions and seems pretty cool.
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