upgrading to 2 10mm outside exhaust studs?

[bertrenolds5]

Is it worth it to risk drilling and tapping my 1g head so that I have 2 10mm studs on the outside of the mani just like the 2nd generations have? I will be getting a 2g manifold hopefully soon and I already ordered the 10mm studs before thinking about it. And would I use a 10mmx1.25 tap for the 10mm ss studs if I were to do it?

[Pushit2.0]

I would not install a SS stud, but thats just me. If you think you are risking something with the right size drill and the right tap with cutting oil, have someone else do this. Its not needed if your M8x1.25 holes are holding strong, antiseeze on the exhaust bolts will make them easy to take apart later. And if the bottom middle exhaust stud come out or is leaking oil, put some RTV on the threads going into the head (oil drain passage to oil pan).

~John

[desolate]

I have done it and noticed no ill effects.

[Pushit2.0]

The problem with SS studs is the expand to much from the heat and can loosen up on you. They do sell SS studs with a jam set screw to help hold things together. The mild steal stud is more suited for the thermal growth of cast iron manifolds and aluminum heads. But the SS studs are shiny and do work for most people.

~John

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

What is the advantage to the 10mm studs?

[HiImBrian]

I just replaced my studs 2 days ago with the fp studs from map for 25 bucks. The old ones came out and new ones went it great and so far I'm happy,

[Pushit2.0]

Originally Posted by Kevin_1G_Drummer

What is the advantage to the 10mm studs?

It is 2mm larger in diameter, "less" likely to strip out. Or they might help flatten out a warped JDM land weld L manifold flange.

~John

[bertrenolds5]

Someone told me I might run into problems with my tap being tapered, which it is? Think I will still be ok if I tap it normally by hand instead of taking it to a machine shop? I'm thinking of saving myself the trouble and just getting 2 new 8mm studs, what do you think?

[Pushit2.0]

If there is nothing wrong with the threads in the head then just get some new M8 studs. You do not need a bottom tap to install the M10 studs, the tapered tap would work fine.

~John

[OldSchoolMotors]

If you decide to tap them out to 10mm, I would suggest using a right angle drill.

Furthermore, if your tapping the bottom right (drivers side) be prepared to take off your power steering pump/belt, unbolt the motor mount at least the two bolts on top, and loosen the bracket that holds the power steering bracket and oil dip stick, you will need to remove those to get a good straight shot at the hole.

Make sure to put your power steering bracket bolts in especially the one on the pulley side before you mount the power steering pump or belt, the pump and belt block this hole when in place.

Good luck , I wouldn't fuck with them if the threads are clean.

[bertrenolds5]

Well if by some bad chance i mess it up, I can always helicoil. I have 2 10mm studs and a copper nut and washer set so I might as well go with the 10mm while I have everything apart. And the ss studs are not the shinny ones, they look like normal steel studs.