Starter won't crank, just clicks when I turn the key

[bertrenolds5]

There is something always wrong with my car lately, it never ends. Got in my car the other night after I parked it and she wouldn't start, I can't find out why the starter will not crank. The battery is new and I am getting 12.5 volts with ignition in the on position, tested the starter at orilleys and it passed, pulled the starter relay and I'm not sure how to apply 12volts to it to check for continuity like my chiltons says. With the relay pulled no starter click, with it in the starter will click when I turn the key so the relay must be good. I just put a new ECU in and I'm about to pull it to see if it's ok. I poped my clutch to get the car started to get it home so it runs, I just can't get it to crank.

If anyone is available to help me out I can throw you some cash because I'm out of ideas, or if you know something I should check please let me know. This is annoying the hell out of me, I'm in savage but could pop the clutch again and drive it somewhere. Somone please help me out, my number is 612-385-6378.

[D_Venable]

Check any ground cables from the engine to the chassis, and the direct positive cable off the battery.

[bertrenolds5]

I was just reading that the power cables get corroded and can cause symptoms like mine. How should I test the positive and negative lines? Volt meter between the positive cable and the positive terminal on the starter? What about the negative line? I don't have tons of experience using a volt meter to test voltage so please bare with me. Thanks for the help!

[TheBlizzard]

Sounds to me like you might have a dead spot in your starter, get a friend and have him try to start the car when you tap on the starter with a wrench, cables to the starter could be an issue.

[bertrenolds5]

I will give it a try, it tested out ok but I read somewhere they can test ok and still be bad. I'm going to check my voltages on my positive and negative lines to the starter. Is the little clip that connects onto the starter a ground from the ignition relay that completes the circuit? can I try bypassing it?

[tpunx99GSX]

verify that the remote wire has a good connection (smallest wire, this is a tell tale sign of this wire not getting a good connection)
Otherwise if you need a new starter, ill sell you mine off my partout for 35 bucks.

[bertrenolds5]

I checked my power wires, + & - both have over 12volts, small wire has continuity when I checked it with ohms from one end to the other end plug. How many volts should I be getting off the small wire at the starter when it is cranked? Should I disconnect the small wire then run my volt meter through it to a good ground somewhere and crank the car to test it?

Also, on the small black wire it goes from 1 wire and is split into two wires that go to a plug. Is that normal? seems like someone rigged it or is that stock wiring?

[1ViciousGSX]

Volt meter at each end of the cable (battery post & starter terminal) should not show more than a 1 volt drop when cranking over. Test from the battery post to the starter terminal post, same thing with the ground. Tell us what you get. Notice I said post and not cable ends.

[Pushit2.0]

Does the motor turn over? There could be a bad spot in the flywheel ring gear. Clean up the battery connections with a wire brush or terminal cleaner, make sure the negative battery cable goes onto one of the 2 bolts that hold the starter onto the tranny, try hitting the starter with a hammer. Good luck.

~John

[CarPsyco84]

When it just clicks, the lights on the dash and everything stays light correct? if not, its the battery posts. When you say it clicks, whats clicking, a relay, or the solenoid on the starter? If the solenoid is clicking the wires to it are most likely ok, and it would be a dead spot in the starter motor.

[bertrenolds5]

The clicking is comming from the starter solenoid, when ever I turn the key it will click once. And the lights on my dashboard stay on when I turn the key to crank the car. I'm getting -.115v dc when I put the volt meter between the little black connector and the negative post on the starter and turn the key to start and have it click at the starter solenoid once. And -.094v between the negative on the little black connector and the starter bolt negative when I crank. And from the little black clip to the negative post I'm getting -.109v when trying to crank the car. I get 12.6v from the positive on the starter to the negative battery post and about the same from the negative on the starter to the positive post. When I crank the car and hear the click the voltage drops from 12.7v down to 12.15v which should still be enough to start the car.
I brought the starter to orilleys and had it tested but maybe they were wrong when it passed? I have hit the starter but not while attempting to crank. It would be really annoying that I spent all this time and it was still a bad starter. I guess I could test the relay, can I run 2 lines off the battery to the relay and then test for continuity on the other posts on the relay? It says how to check it in my chilton's but it's not specific.

[talonite]

have you tried jumping it with another car? just because you got voltage doesnt mean you got cranking amps, and like a couple people have said have some one crank it and tap it with a hammer. Good luck

[bertrenolds5]

I went an bought a starter, thing was old anyways but not the problem... I tapped it and nothing. I'm gonna exchange my battery tomorrow because I'm feeling like that is the problem. I shorted it out on my strut bar because I tightened down my post while the battery was in the car so I'm guessing my dumb ass shorted the thing and it has no cranking amps. I charged the battery but didn't jump it and should have but I don't have cables so yeah, I like my car alot more when it works. Damn thing is an atm that only takes money.

[Halon]

You dont own jumper cables?

[bertrenolds5]

Funny hu? I only live here 6 months out of the year but I should have some in my truck, just never need them. Once I get some more money here that will be on my list.

Battery was charged and tested under load and passed, installed it and now the clicking is comming from the starter relay on the left side of the wheel so since I'm just throwing parts at it, anyone know where I can get a new starter relay around here for a 91?

[bertrenolds5]

It's not the starter relay that was clicking, it's actually another relay that is located right above my fuses. It's part number MB18386 12v omron 05Y0D0 relay. Here are pictures of it and it's location, anyone know what it is and if it's bad would it not allow my car to crank? I'm guessing I would need to go to the mitsu dealer to pick one up right? Anyone have one I can try in my car?

[bertrenolds5]

Wade, thanks for the offer of help and everyone else for their input! After several days I just realized what I thought was the clutch switch actually was something else. When I was putting my fuse box back together I noticed another switch that I pulled the plug from and that was the actual clutch safety switch and now she cranks right up. Wish I would have pulled the right plug in the first place! Atleast I can sleep at night now.

[CarPsyco84]

Heh, well that makes it easier lol, I usually disconnect that switch so I don't have to push the clutch in to start it, its hard on the thrust bearing specially with aftermarket clutches. And after crank walking a 6 bolt I decided to disconnect it.