1G Trouble shoot assistance needed

[Kracka]

Shane @ DB has a chip burner so he should be able to help you out and burn you a new chip if needed. He probably has more ECU experience than any of the other shops.

[Alpha D]

Next, regarding the eprom what exactly should i inquire of? I dont know much about the tuning aspect etc. If the chip was modified how can i go about getting it tuned properly? Does any body on the forum chip ECU? My cousin said the person that does the chips is on another web page.

[Alpha D]

Shane at DB performance. Thank you.

[Alpha D]

Following, jrohner's comment about the transmission. How should i go about the tranny. Take of the end cover purchase a new gasket before hand? What should i look for?

[Kracka]

Originally Posted by Alpha D

Shane at DB performance. Thank you.

He goes by "ecoli" on here.

[Alpha D]

When i finished checking for vacuum leaks. The car was started up again. It idle below 600 wanting to stall out. After slightly adjusting the BISS screw. Shutting the car of for about 30mins inspecting for potential hoses that could not be connected. Everything was connected properly. I started the car again and it idled at 1500. The car continued to pour smoke. The black fluid continued out the exhaust as well. The texture of the fluid does not feel like oil. It has a strong smell of gas as well.

[Alpha D]

The oil did not seem milky. It was rather thin and very dark not the proper honey brown. It did smell like gas as well. I came to the conclusion that due to the car burning rich. Some gas might be making its way past the piston rings. Maybe because they are not seated properly yet....? There for thinning out the oil. causing the smell of gas in the oil. I might very well be wrong.

[Kracka]

Take it for a drive and see how it goes. Just be easy on it and stay out of boost until you know its running well. If it seems to drive decently then take it up to DB for a custom tune. Sounds like it is running very rich and it might be a good idea to change the oil. Did you check that PCV valve?

[Alpha D]

4season. The motor supposedly was rebuilt by chimm and his brother. The turbo was from jhaan dude. A few things could have been improperly installed. If the rings are faulty the pistons would need to be pulled. Correct? if it is the valve guides the head will need to be pulled. This is not a to big of a job. Anything regarding the block will be terrible. Due to the fact i do not have the garage space or proper tools. Excessive bearing clearance i would really be in trouble. In order to check the lower bottom end i would pull the oil pan correct?

[Alpha D]

I have not been able to check the pcv. I have been to afraid to drive the car anywhere we pushed it out my friends garage. He needed the space for his vehicle. How to stay out of boost stay below 3000RPM i will have to take the highway to get to DB. Will the car be safe for that long of a distance. I was talking to a few people about a towing service. It would cost me close to $200 if not more.

-When i take the car for a test drive around the block what exact noises should i listen for?

- I really don't want to drive the car if it will significantly damage anything?

[Alpha D]

I would like to take the time to THANK EVERY ONE that took time out of there day to answer my question. As well as the people that are thinking about the potential issues with the car. I am sorry if a few points are not conveyed properly. I am trying hard to explain the best i can.

[Alpha D]

Also how should i go about braking in the motor? Since the Rich air fuel mixture could pose a problem.

[Kracka]

Don't worry about that for right now. Once you get it running right and tuned you can beat on it

[Alpha D]

A little confused. All this time i was paranoid about moving the thing 2yards, or idling it for to long. But i have to drive it to notice other problems. That rocks i can live with that. I guess i wont worry about the smoke in the engine bay or out the exhaust. Take the 1G in for a tune, and i should be golden.

[Kracka]

You will want to get as many as resolved as possible before going in for a tune though (boost leaks, fluid leaks, etc.).

[Alpha D]

No doubt. I will purchase new gaskets for everything that attaches to the manifold. Change the oil. Test drive it fix as much as i can. Then take it in for a tune.

[Alpha D]

A little update regarding all the issues i have. I have not checked the ecu yet or fixed the shifter cables. I did change the oil though! The oil was very dark lets put it that way. I am still trying to figure out how to post pictures and videos it would really help, in explaining.

The car started up and ran PERFECT after the oil change! I thought i solved all the problems in one go. I let the car idle to completely warm up. Just how i was advised. It idled at 900rpm. When it warmed though it shoot up to 1500rpm. Things began to go down hill from there. The tail started smoking really bad. It went from a light grey to a blueish smoke. It looked the same as oil burning cars.

I disregarded the high idle and smoke, as well as black fluid continuously coming out the exhaust (it is unburned fuel i was told) We took the car around the block. When putting it into 1st gear the clutch was depressed all the way to the ''FLOOR'' yet it would still grind really bad. Reaching the 1st stop sign the idle began to fluctuate up and down from 1500 to 2000. it continually smoked. I was hoping it would dissipate it did not. We parked the car and shut it of immediately. The test drive did not last more then 5mins.

I sat down on the curb thinking about what i did wrong. I thought about how rebuild motors operate. I came to the conclusion that the oil could be burning do to the fact the rings are not seated properly yet. Allowing some of the oil that is suppose to be scraped by the oil rings to get into the combustion chamber?!? Before packing up and calling it a day i smelled the dipstick again. You could already begin to smell the fuel in the oil.

[Alpha D]

''To Do List''
-Compression test

-Leak down test

-Adjust shifter linkage

-Inspect ecu/ take vehicle in for a Tune( It costs $350) So I REALLY WANNA MAKE SURE I NEED ONE!! I am a little short on cash as of right now.

-4th Boost leak test

If any body owns a logger, and would not mind checking out the ECU i would much appreciate it.

[CarRacer]

You do not need a tune. If the injectors and MAS that the chip is burnt for are currently installed on the car you are fine.

You do not need to take your ECU anywhere to have it looked at for damage. Remove the ECU from the car and remove the case on the ECU itself. Inspect the circuit board near the capacitors ( little cylinders sticking up) for acid damage. They are basically little batteries and will leak acid onto the circuit board after a decade or so.

I don't think the burning oil is ring related. My car only smoked white smoke before I broke it in. When the rings are seating, the motor generates a lot of heat in the cylinders and will produce some condensation out the exhaust. Anything besides that is abnormal in my opinion.

With that said, I doubt you have ring issues. It is probably a PCV issue. That could also be causing your idle issue too. Buy a new OEM PCV, they're cheap, the one on the car currently is probably as old as you are so replace it.

I'd also reroute the vacuum line off of the j pipe directly to the wastegate on the turbo for now and simply run it on the spring. That will help limit your boost, as well as with your left foot. :P

If the car is driveable and the smoke isn't horrible after completing the above fixes, I'd try and break the motor in. Have Nate text/call me and I'll tell him how to do that. There's a ton of stuff to do before that though. I'd try the above stuff I suggested and see where you stand after that.

[Alpha D]

Thank you very much. My PCV. I don't mean to sound stupid or ask irrelevant question, but can i get those nice filters for the PCV? Or do i have to get the replacement hoses. As well as replace the actual valve? Interestingly the Current PCV was pretty nasty looking.