Shaft Play.....?

howslowcanyougo · 06-13-2005

I know this is another n00b question, but thats what I am, and why I'm here asking you the "wiseguys" <in more ways then one>.....

Tearing out my Big 16G, and notice now there's some shaft play.

Nothing, side to side yet , but there is maybe 1/16 of "in and out" shaft play?

It seems to still spin ok?

Just how much of an issue is this amount of play generaly speaking?

TIA.......

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 06-13-2005

Some up & down shaft play is normal. Side-to-side (pushing and pulling the compressor nut directly in and out) play is not good.

howslowcanyougo · 06-13-2005

So if I need to go cheap, for now, get it rebiult or? If so where?

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 06-13-2005

Run it until it atleast starts blowing some oil maybe?

**Kracka** · 06-14-2005

The more you fiddle with it the worse it will get. Put it back in your car and don't worry about it until it starts giving you troubles.

howslowcanyougo · 06-14-2005

There is already some smaller puffs of blue smoke at WOT when I go "through the gears" now, but it's not fogging blue yet.

I just WAS going to pay to have this turbo, the exhaust mani, and o2 housing, all match ported but I guess if the damm things on it's way out maybe I should save that $ for a new damm turbo now?

Since I'm now installing a new FMIC, will this affect any kind of greater or lesser load on this failing turbo?

What's the chances of this turbo letting go, and blasting peices into the rest of the motor and screwing it ALL up?

Many Thanks in Advance........

**1ViciousGSX** · 06-14-2005

Save your money for something better.

**Kracka** · 06-14-2005

Get it all port-matched, my guess is the turbo still has a lot of life left in it. A ported turbine housing will always be worth money, especially since you can buy the FP 18G's so cheaply. The turbo will not "let go and blast pieces" into your engine, when the bearings start to go it will just burn oil and not build boost as well.

howslowcanyougo · 06-14-2005

After looking at this closer, now I can hear the turbine hitting the housing with a "ting" when I spin it by hand. I think I'm just going to white flag this, and start looking for a new turbo.

Looks like even more moneys gotta go down this never ending DSM vortex?

Suggestions wanted as to make, model and vendor for a NEW turbo.

Please keep in mind the car is a auto with a FMIC, 650 injectors, 255 FP, and dsmlink.

It also is my DD

TIA.......

**1ViciousGSX** · 06-14-2005

FP Green, PTE 50 trim, GT series, etc.

howslowcanyougo · 06-14-2005

That FP Green does look very nice, but $1400 is just way out of my range!

Looking at this 18G cart replacement here?

http://linux.forcedperformance.net/m...egory_Code=DSM

Looks like I could use this to repair my blown 16G?

And that lower price could save my bacon right about now.

But I'd need it to really work!

Anyone ever done this, how hard is it to reassemble this parts combo into a working turbo?

**JET** · 06-14-2005

Not a bad option, but it won't last as long on your DD without the water cooled center section.

Wizard · 06-14-2005

It'll work fine without a water-cooled center section. If you allow it to cool-down properly....you will not have any problems. The main reason manufacturers made turbos water-cooled was because most humans don't let their car idle down enough after running it hard. Which means the bearings coke up and seize. With a good quality synthetic oil and proper change intervals as well as adequate cool-down time will be more than satifactory for long turbo life. Liquid cooled or not.

Come to think of it, I don't run into a lot of diesels with turbo problems relating to 'lack of water-cooling'. And they run some serious psi (rpms).

Wiz

howslowcanyougo · 06-14-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

Not a bad option, but it won't last as long on your DD without the water cooled center section.

Very good point , Thanks!

"The bearing housing is a dry casting which means that you are free to eliminate the water connections to the turbocharger to simplify installation and R&R during those pesky HG swaps."

What good is this thing if it's not water cooled?

Just for the track and not for extended hwy runs or?

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 06-14-2005

Read what Wizard wrote above. Water cooling really is only needed on dual ball-bearing turbos that don't use much oil for cooling and OEM applications that need to last 100,000 miles on cars that don't get regular oil changes or a short cool down period after a hard run.

**JET** · 06-14-2005

I wasn't saying that it will burn up quickly, but it won't last as long as a water cooled one. Most of the PTE's aren't water cooled and they last pretty good. As a rule of thumb I bet you cut the turbo life in 1/2 with a dry center section. Granted you could still be looking at 40k+ miles. If you plan on keeping this turbo for a very long time, it is something to consider. If you will get rid of it soon or upgrade in a few years, then it is a viable option.

Diesels are a whole 'nother ball of wax. They run cooler and spin larger wheels at slower speeds with larger shafts.

**Kracka** · 06-15-2005

A rebuild on your 16G will cost about $300, for a bit extra I'd get that 18G they offer. Stop spinning your turbo by hand, you're only making it worse. With that said, all turbos will make that "ting" noise w/o oil in them since the bearings ride on a film of oil and w/o that they will wobble around slightly. I still say your turbo is fine and to continue using it. JUST STOP SPINNING AND WOBBLING IT!

john · 06-15-2005

Chris, I dont think his finger pressure will sieze it up... Imagine the load turbos are used to.

Enes · 06-15-2005

the diesel turbos make more cfm generaly and they spin just as fast as gasoline turbos..

you should hear the poor turbo in my truck

**Kracka** · 06-15-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carlos

Chris, I dont think his finger pressure will sieze it up... Imagine the load turbos are used to.

Yes, but they also have oil preasure while under that load. Would you crank your engine over without any oil in the crankcase?