Upgrades to my car - everyone please let me know your opinions

[rk4g63]

I have a 94 Talon Tsi AWD, 132k. New timing belt setup at 90k, new act 2100 at 90k.
Equipment:
Stock 7 bolt/4 bolt,Tranny and t-case replaced and oil changed a week ago. Big 16g (at 90k), Evo 3 manifold, Supra TT SMIC, 2.5" non-SS exh with a few bends, MBC

Intentions for the car:
Make it a street car and a solid 12 sec car on the track. Mostly a highly reliable street car, with rare occasions on the track. I don't drag race, just street race. Need to give high gas mileage as well.

Question 1 - What's the max boost level thats safe to run on my setup currently?
Question 2- Whats the max boost that my stock BOV can take?


Upgrades suggested by JET (he's been a big help) and I'm following those closely (keep in mind I'm trying to keep it cheap for now):
650 cc inj
SAFC 2
electronic Boost controller (I wanted this)
2g maf
greddy egt gauge and greddy/TRE probe
datalogger to check knock and O2 volts - I already have a P3 laptop.
190 pump


Question 3: What is the max boost that I should run with the projected setup? I will never run more than 22 psi anyway. I mean to stay REALLLY safe on the boost though, so I need to know when I am pushing the limits of the projected setup.
Question4 : What boost level should I run on the street to get best gas mileage?
Question 5: I'm trying to avoids fuel cut, which is why I'm going for bigger injectors, afc2, etc. Can I get away using just 550 cc? I'm asking coz I'm getting them for 100$ shipped.
Question 6: Trying to use a walbro 190 coz I dont want to get an afpr. Can I also use a low pressure 255 and still not have to use an afpr? Jet, let me know - I forgot to ask you this. I think I asked you only about the high pres 255.

I'd like everyone's opinions so I don't start off wrong and fuck it all up. Main goal is to stay on the safe side, make it reliable and still get a 12 sec car. If I end up being late 12's in the interests of safety of my powertrain/drivetrain, even though I might get to early 12's if I push it, so be it. Just as an example.

Thnaks for the help, guys.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

#1 Different for every car. Depends on the gas you run, how well your intercooler works, how easily your motor likes to knock, etc. How you tune the timing and fuel will greatly effect what you can get away with for boost.
#2 Who knows. Uncrushed, maybe 17psi. Crushed who knows, some get worse with crushing some will hold low 20s with crushing.
#3 Maybe 28 on race gas.
#4 You shouldn't boost it at all, if you want good gas mileage. The more boost you run the more fuel you will need. Try not to boost at all in normal driving. Put your boost controller at whatever and don't give it enough throttle to make boost and waste gas everytime you try to accelerate.

[rk4g63]

Can you recommed a BOV that will hold at least 20 psi? I'd like an inexpensive option. I know I'll definitely run 20 psi, but never over 22.
A buddy ran 18 psi with a boost controller on a stock 2g plastic bov and blew his turbo coz it went over.

I agree with what you mention on #1. So there really is no ballpark either?

[Jakey]

Does the car have an Eprom ecu? Personally I'd forget about the datalogger/S-AFC combo and go straight to DSMLink.

[rk4g63]

Dont know about the eprom ecu. I bought the car from Kenny and he didnt know either. I guess I'll have to pull it out and check.
Dont have the cash for dsmlink.

[Jakey]

Originally Posted by rk4g63

Dont have the cash for dsmlink.

DSMLink & socket service is $595 + shipping directly from DSMLink. DSMLink capable laptops can be found for very little $$$.

SLS sells the S-AFC II for $275. Pocketlogger is $125, plus the PDA (we'll say $75), and the Serial hotsync cable (we'll say $20). Then you can figure in another $115 from DSMChips for a chip with injector compensation and 2G Mas compensation. So you've spent $610 and still don't have the abilities of DSMLink. Plus shipping still needs to be figured into the $610 if applicable. DSMLink makes sense to me.

[rk4g63]

Do I still need a chip if I just go with the afc2?
I already have the afc2 - just need to get the pocketlogger.

[rk4g63]

Updated question 5. Added question 6.

[slowbubblecar]

Originally Posted by Jakey

DSMLink & socket service is $595 + shipping directly from DSMLink. DSMLink capable laptops can be found for very little $$$.

SLS sells the S-AFC II for $275. Pocketlogger is $125, plus the PDA (we'll say $75), and the Serial hotsync cable (we'll say $20). Then you can figure in another $115 from DSMChips for a chip with injector compensation and 2G Mas compensation. So you've spent $610 and still don't have the abilities of DSMLink. Plus shipping still needs to be figured into the $610 if applicable. DSMLink makes sense to me.

?
You can tune a 1g with those mods fine with an safc, a cheap laptop and a cheap logger cable. If you buy pocketlogger and a palm, ou don't need to buy a serial cable either if the palm came with the cradle. You don't need injector or mas compensation for 650's either.

[rk4g63]

Originally Posted by slowbubblecar

?
You can tune a 1g with those mods fine with an safc, a cheap laptop and a cheap logger cable. If you buy pocketlogger and a palm, ou don't need to buy a serial cable either if the palm came with the cradle. You don't need injector or mas compensation for 650's either.

I have an safc2 for 2 maps. I also have a good laptop. Don't have the logger, cable and palm though.
Are you tell me that I don't need the chip for the 650's at all and I can get away just tuning this stuff? If true, then does that still hold good for 550's?

[slowbubblecar]

A safc, laptop and cheap cable would work perfectly fine for your setup. We didn't have a problem on my brothers car with that setup. When he went to 780's, we had erik burn a chip for the ecu to help for the injectors. He had a 2g mas also. 780s were too far negative on the safc to work very well. 650s or 550s should be no problem at all. You wouldn't need the palm if you have a laptop though. All you need is a cheap cable.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

The low pressure 255 has almost exactly the same flow properties at 40psi as a 255HP, so it will have the same possible overrun problems under idle/cruise.

You will want some sort of datalogger to get half of an idea of what is going on. The main problem with big injectors and an AFC is that when you have too go much negative on the AFC you can end up in a timing map that is too aggressive. On race gas it is less of a problem, because the gas can usually handle a bit more timing and you usually run a lot more boost on race gas, which helps push you farther away from the higher timing maps. Some people have to lower their base timing from 5 down to 0 on pump gas to keep the knock down. With a DSMLink, there is no fooling of the ECU going on.

Don't forget to rewire your fuel pump. I would probably try some cheap used 550s first. A few people on here have gone 12s on the stock 450s. My girlfriend went 120mph on her 550s.

[rk4g63]

Originally Posted by ecoli

The low pressure 255 has almost exactly the same flow properties at 40psi as a 255HP, so it will have the same possible overrun problems under idle/cruise.

You will want some sort of datalogger to get half of an idea of what is going on. The main problem with big injectors and an AFC is that when you have too go much negative on the AFC you can end up in a timing map that is too aggressive. On race gas it is less of a problem, because the gas can usually handle a bit more timing and you usually run a lot more boost on race gas, which helps push you farther away from the higher timing maps. Some people have to lower their base timing from 5 down to 0 on pump gas to keep the knock down. With a DSMLink, there is no fooling of the ECU going on.

Don't forget to rewire your fuel pump. I would probably try some cheap used 550s first. A few people on here have gone 12s on the stock 450s. My girlfriend went 120mph on her 550s.

So you think I can use 550's with the setup I've described (2g maf with dejon intake, safc2, datalogger, walbro 190 etc) and still achieve my goals? I'm just asking to see if I can get by with this stuff to meet the 3 goals I have:
High gas mileage
12 sec
good reliability

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Should be able to. Only in the last couple years has everyone thought they needed 880s to run 12s. You could achieve your goals with a 14B, 450s and a new O2 sensor, if you really wanted.

[rk4g63]

With the 450's - I'm scared of reaching fuel cut around 16-18 psi. Might damage the engine too. I want to be able to run 20 psi boost safely. Also, I dont know if my stock BOV will hold up to that pressure.