Rebuild But Don't Know what to do?

dsm_98 · 09-26-2005

I am looking forward to rebuilding my 98 GSX but I don't really know what to do to the motor to make it quick? I was thinking about a 2.3 stroker kit, but I dont know kinda of parts I would need to build it. If you guys got any suggestions for me let me know.

Thanks

Jakey · 09-26-2005

What modifications do you currently have?

rk4g63 · 09-26-2005

What's the budget in terms of time, money and patience?

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 09-26-2005

Why are you rebuilding it? The stock motor will take all kinds of power.

chengsta · 09-27-2005

Only modifications my friend dsm_98 has is a 1g BOV, Injen Intake, custom 2.5 cat back exhaust, air/fuel & boost gauge. As for why he's rebuilding it I have no clue, I think it's because he couldn't beat a 99 civic SI with headers, intake, exhaust :P. Haha just kidding man, don't take it to seriously.

**Goat Blower** · 09-27-2005

Don't rebuild unless it's knocking like a jackhammer.

niterydr · 09-27-2005

Why not get rid of the t-2 small first?
Then more supporting mods. Only reason to rebuild a 7 bolt are crankwalk, crankwalk, and over 400whp...oh and crankwalk.

dsm_98 · 09-27-2005

Ok I guess rebuilding it wont be a big problem, but wanted to rebuild it because its got over 100k on the motor and its probably a good idea. If you guys got any advice let me know.

Jakey · 09-27-2005

What does milage have to do with needing a rebuild? It the compression is solid, a leakdown test does not surface any severe issues, and your car "runs" well, why start messing with things until something actually happens which requires major engine work?

AJ · 09-27-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

Why not get rid of the t-2 small first?

That's a SIN!

niterydr · 09-27-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSMStyle

That's a SIN!

Don't make me hit u with a sin!
on topic:
2.4 is a better option compared to the 2.3.

GVR-4579 · 09-28-2005

What you really need to do is look at what kind of power you want to create/ end with and then you can figure out what you need or want to do.

Erik

Jakey · 09-28-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

on topic: 2.4 is a better option compared to the 2.3.

Could you further expand upon this?

niterydr · 09-28-2005

I don't like using hammers and such to 'clearance' oil pans for cranks

.

Honestly.

The 2.3 use to be a huge issue, now pistons are shelf stock, granted 2.0 pistons are easier to find, and 2.4 pistons are easy, but the 2.3 pistons are becoming more of a commonly stocked item by the major manafacture.

Rod ratio is the same as a 2.4 obviously, I just don't like the idea of grinding main caps, denting oil pans, and grinding block material.
Other than that, it is a cheaper option versus a true 2.4 4g64, but 4g64's are becoming more of a rariety.
I dunno, imho its 'better' to go with a block and crank made for each other (from the factory).
a year ago: 2.3's sucked the big one
now: easier to work with, fairly good option.
So I guess, they are even, with the cheapness option going to the 4g63 based 2.3 or '2.4' (pending overbore).

**JET** · 09-28-2005

I have found the 2.4's to be cheaper. Most people doing a 2.3 end up having to buy a new crank which is more expensive than a used 2.4l. Having the wrist pins lower in the piston is also a bonus of the 2.4. And like Josh mentioned, no grinding of the block on a 2.4.

sleepydsm · 10-05-2005

Hmmm... just now I realized how inexpensive it would be for me to build my own 2.4L... muahahaha the ideas are churning.

ther1pper · 10-06-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepydsm

Hmmm... just now I realized how inexpensive it would be for me to build my own 2.4L... muahahaha the ideas are churning.

yes kevin me too

niterydr · 10-06-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

I have found the 2.4's to be cheaper. Most people doing a 2.3 end up having to buy a new crank which is more expensive than a used 2.4l. Having the wrist pins lower in the piston is also a bonus of the 2.4. And like Josh mentioned, no grinding of the block on a 2.4.

Good point, that new crank thing can really throw the price comparison out of whack!

Outlaw1 · 10-06-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

I have found the 2.4's to be cheaper. Most people doing a 2.3 end up having to buy a new crank which is more expensive than a used 2.4l. Having the wrist pins lower in the piston is also a bonus of the 2.4. And like Josh mentioned, no grinding of the block on a 2.4.

Some of the 2.4 kits use a longer rod.

sleepydsm · 10-07-2005

I'd say run 'er 'til she blows. Well, thats what everyone told me when I said I had bad compression.