Engine Oil

[Halon]

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

I've always ran mobil1 15w-40 in my dsm during the warm months.

The Synthetic, or the diesel stuff?

[Kracka]

All Mobil 1 is synthetic. I don't think they make a "gasoline" 15W-40 though (I could be wrong, worth looking into).

[Halon]

Guess this is what I was referring to when I said Diesel stuff.
http://www.mobildelvac.com/usa-engli...elvac_Home.asp
Because that is what I'm running at the moment.


When I said synthetic I was referring to the stuff in the silver bottle that everyone is familiar with.

[cmspaz]

The Diesel stuff comes in that same silver bottle

[Halon]

Look at the link. No it doesn't. The stuff I was referring to, and supplied a link for, comes in a black jug.

Jackass

[scheides]

Please post only:
Oil Brands/weights you recommend
Oil Brands/weights you recommend against
Mileage/power on a specific oil
Seasonal changes, if you make any.


Let's try and keep this a technical discussion

[scheides]

1G DSM (7-bolt): Mobile1 10w30 from 63k-95k miles over 3 years, stock-280whp@RS
issues:
-I sprung a leak somehow and it got all over the timing belt
-I broke an oil squirter. Pulled oil pan and replaced it, then above leak occurred)

2G DSM (6-bolt swap): Mobile1 10w30 from 70k-105k miles over 2.5 years, 180-300whp@DB
issues: none.

Evo8 (7-bolt): Mobile1 10w30 from 21k-81k miles over 3.5 years, 210-430whp @ DB. Occasionally ran M1 5w30 in the reeeeally cold parts of winter, but idk if it was worth doing (this was when the car was under 350whp).
issues: none, I'll have to take pics when Jim pulls the bottom-end apart.

EvoX (7-bolt 4b11t): Mobile1 5w30, 10w30, and 5w40 mix, whatever I had leftover b/c I had no idea what was in it when I bought it. Will be sticking with M1 10w30 for now.
issues: will report back

[Kracka]

We already have an oil tech thread. I'll merge this into that one.

*edit*
Threads merged.

[Kracka]

As many of you know I'm a big advocate of conventional oils which is what I ran in my 5 DSM's, my S2000, and my wife's WRX. The only reason I run Mobil 1 (synthetic) on my Evos is because it's factory-fill and I'm also a fan of picking something and sticking with it for the life of the engine. I ran M1 10W-30 (factory-fill) for the life of my IX but just switched my factory-fill M1 5W-30 to 10W-30 in the X.

In the DSM's I was always a fan of the Rotella-T (either 10W-30 or 15W-40). The WRX gets 5W-30 Chevron Supreme and my S2k got 10W-30 Chevron Supreme. Chevron Supreme is one of the top conventional oils and if you catch it on sale or with a mail-in-rebate it can be very cheap. Havoline is probably the best major conventional oil there is, but you pay for it with prices nearing that of synthetics.

Oil change intervals are something that the majority of people do way too often. I ran my S2k and run the WRX on 5k change intervals with conventional. People need to remember that color is of no indication to the oil's quality or remaining life. To learn that info you will need to send a sample in for analysis (Blackstone Labs for example) and look at the remaining TBN which basically shows how much active additive package is remaining. Extended drain intervals are the one major advantage that synthetics have over conventionals. Most of us could easily run 10k+ miles with any of the available synthetics and never see an issue. On the X for example, Mitsu recommends oil changes every 5k miles, but filter changes only every 10k miles.

The better oil filter you run the longer your oil will last. OEM Mitsu's filters are a great filter to go with because they work and they are <$5 with the discount at dealerships. WIX is another popular filter but I've had issues with them so I won't personally recommend them. The Bosch/Mobil 1/K&N filters are all very good (and identical internally). The best bang for the buck filter is the Purolator PureOne gold oil filter available for ~$4; it's quality rivals that of the previous three mentioned but with superior filtration ability. I run these "gold" filters in the WRX and am tempted to switch the Evo over, but Mitsu filters have served so well for so long it's tough to argue with something like that.

The only oil that I really recommend against is Royal Purple and that is due to it's very weak additive package. Fresh from the bottle it's a great oil, but the additive package is junk and gone within 2k street miles.

[simulatedwood]

Everyone has thier opinions on this subject, when it comes down to it, I listen to what this guy has to say.. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php

Plenty of good info and lots of good reading when you have time. I am not an expert on the subject ,at all.

[C3L1CA]

I've always run M1 10w-30 in my car and I've been pretty lucky. Motor has around 10k since the stock rebuilt and has usually been run at around 450-480awhp mark at DB. It seen as high as 597 for one nitrous pull and when I usually spray I would think it should be around that 550awhp mark at DB. I've been lucky and will switch to a heavier weight if I ever have any money to build a motor.

[Halon]

My understanding is OEM Mtisu = WIX = Napa Gold.

TALON:
Napa Gold Filters (I run an RX-7 filter)

I usually run either 10W-40 or 15W-40. I usually run whatever synthetic is on sale, with the exception of M1 (I never run it because of lifter tick issues I've heard of). I have experimented with some diesel oils too like Rotella, and have nothing negative to say.

I change the oil usually right in the spring, then sometime mid/late summer, and that's usually it. Simply because it doesn't get driven in the winter, but it does see some abuse during the summer.


ENVOY/DD's:
Walmart Supertech Filter

Walmart Supertech Conventional 10W-30. Great bang for the buck, for a vehicle that's simply a DD and doesn't see a lot of abuse.

Oil Change is done appx every 5-7k miles as 3k is way too soon.

[Kracka]

Originally Posted by Halon

My understanding is OEM Mtisu = WIX = Napa Gold.

I doubt this is true since Mitsu filters are made in Japan. WIX does manufacture Napa's filters though. One feature that I really like about the Mitsu filters is they are pregreased then sealed with plastic. I am basing my info off the Evo filters though and it is possible the DSM/other filters are from elsewhere. For example, the only Honda filters made in Japan anymore are the S2k filters, the rest are Fram junk. Subaru recently switched from Japanese made to Fram junk too.

[mlomker]

Originally Posted by Halon

I change the oil usually right in the spring, then sometime mid/late summer, and that's usually it. Simply because it doesn't get driven in the winter, but it does see some abuse during the summer.

I was planning on the same schedule for the Evo.

What's your guys' opinion on putting synthetic in a higher mileage motor? Is the fear of doing that real or imagined? I ask because Amsoil advertises their 0w30 as having a 17,500 mile change interval on motors with more than 100k miles on it. Throwing that in my beater and changing it once per year is kind of appealing.

[Kracka]

Any major synthetic is good for a year and can do 15-20k miles in a "normal" car during "normal" driving as long as you use quality gas a good filter (probably smart to chance the filter at the halfway point though). Purolator actually touts the high contaminant capacity of their PureOne gold filter ($4 at Fleet Farm; this is the great filter I mentioned earlier).

You can switch to synthetic whenever you want, but there is a chance you'll burn more oil and/or the detergents in it can clean away sludge that's otherwise plugging leaky gaskets. For a beater, I'd do exactly what Brandon does; Supertech oil/filter every 5-7k miles.

[Super Bleeder!!]

found this randomly while perusing FP's site.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

excellent info, especially in the tables!

[Halon]

That's an interesting read. I've poured in zinc/phos additives before into my oils on my Talon before. I'd usually run some cheap synthetic, or the occasional "diesel" oil, and would sometimes pour in a bottle of that additive. I wonder if those over the counter additives really make a real difference though?

[goodhart]

I used that exact document when choosing oil to run in the Evo. I ended up choosing Amsoil 10w30 Dominator. With a WIX filter of course

[cmspaz]

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

found this randomly while perusing FP's site.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

excellent info, especially in the tables!

The only PDF I have ever read that is on letterhead, starts with "official announcement", and then calls the target audience "MFr's" before the third paragraph.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Nice to see what people use in various applications. I went about 8k on regular 5w-30 in my kia beater. When I changed it recently, it vibrated less. lol. I won't go that long before the next change, or the car will be sold, who knows.

In the quest, I now use 20w-50 conventional because I got a lot of beef swinging around in there and I don't want to leave a lot of hard work and money in the hands of some thinner oils. And why not? It's a "race" car anyway. And I don't want to use synthetic.