My Pile Won't Start!

123abc · 03-18-2009

This last monday, me and twack changed out my fuel pump for an evo 9 pump. While I was buttoning up the rear of the car, I gave twack the okay to extend my maf-t harness. Got that all done, hooked it up, and nothing. At that time I was getting no MAF signal on my logger. So, yesterday I shortened it back up, hooked it up, still nothing. Just cranks. The only time I get anything is when I unhook all the injector clips. Then it sputters a bit but still doesn't start. I'm getting plenty of fuel, the pump is working so I've ruled that out as a problem.

I would check the plugs, and 3 out of the 4 are soaked in gas. The car was running tip top up untill we did the fuel pump and extended the maft harness.

Anyone have any ideas? I spent 3 hours searching threads on tuners but can't find any case that was similar to mine. I let the car sit over night with the plugs out to dry so when I get off work today I'll fuck with it some more.

niterydr · 03-18-2009

Sounds like the injectors are leaking/constantly on. Did any of the MAF wiring get crossed?

123abc · 03-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

Sounds like the injectors are leaking/constantly on. Did any of the MAF wiring get crossed?

It was messed up before, but I shortened it back up yesterday and I am getting a reading of .37 or something like that on the logger during cranking. After twack had extended it, I wouldn't get any maf reading. I had thought the injectors were to blame, but it doesn't make much sense because no body messed with them. Only thing we did was take the feed line off the rail to check to see the pump is working.

Another thing, I have messed with the translator trying to lean the shit out to get it started but it doesn't make a difference.

I have kracka's evo9 injectors on the way, you think that will fix it?

**scheides** · 03-18-2009

Do you get any reading (in hz) on your logger? When my maf-t got wet a few times or it was hooked up wrong I would get like exactly 4hz no matter what I did. You should see something register while cranking.

Make sure your CAS is hooked up, maybe try swapping that out. They are sensitive. You sure somethign else isn't unplugged? The coilpack/igniter/etc?

123abc · 03-18-2009

I have cop, i've tried my old coil pack and wires, the maf-t is fine, i read about 37 hz under cranking, 3% injector duty cycle, 27 something for a pulse width. I just put in Kracka's 560's today and it's doing the same damn thing.

The only thing is the translator's green led blinks sometimes.

**Kracka** · 03-18-2009

What does the green LED mean?

123abc · 03-18-2009

I have no idea what the green led means. The translator seems to be working as it always does. I've tried it with no rpm wire, trying to lean it way out on the dials, but no luck. I'm about to start doing some custom body work real soon...

**Halon** · 03-18-2009

So it ran before. And all you did was swap in a new fuel pump, and messed with the MAFT wiring, and now it doesn't work?

Have you checked to make sure the MPI fuse isn't blown? Have you checked to make sure you didn't knock any connectors loose while doing any of this? Do you have good compression? Have you tried playing with the gas pedal while trying to start it? I believe if you hold the gas all the way down while turning it over, it should shut the injecors off, which may be useful if everythings all flooded. Do you have an extremely high coolant temperature reading on whatever logging application you have? Do you have a spare ECU you can swap in? Are you certain you are getting spark?

123abc · 03-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

So it ran before. And all you did was swap in a new fuel pump, and messed with the MAFT wiring, and now it doesn't work?

Have you checked to make sure the MPI fuse isn't blown? Have you checked to make sure you didn't knock any connectors loose while doing any of this? Do you have good compression? Have you tried playing with the gas pedal while trying to start it? I believe if you hold the gas all the way down while turning it over, it should shut the injecors off, which may be useful if everythings all flooded. Do you have an extremely high coolant temperature reading on whatever logging application you have? Do you have a spare ECU you can swap in? Are you certain you are getting spark?

Which one is the mpi fuse?

Yes I'm sure. I did a semi wire tuck myself and I know where each connector is. I've checked them 4 times each.

Yes, good compression. Always have.

I hold it to the floor, nothing.

Coolant temp reading is about right.

No spare ecu.

Thanks guys for trying to help me. Its too damn dark out right now to try anything though.

**Halon** · 03-18-2009

mpi relay is basically located right on the battery. There are 3 fuese that are on one of the power cables that attaches right to the battery terminal. It's the one you typically pull when doing a compression test.

123abc · 03-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

mpi relay is basically located right on the battery. There are 3 fuese that are on one of the power cables that attaches right to the battery terminal. It's the one you typically pull when doing a compression test.

Yeah, I have 3 fuses on that block. I haven't done a compression test in over a year, so idk which one it is. If im getting fuel, why would it be the mpi fuse?

Kevin 1G Drummer · 03-18-2009

I'm pretty sure the green LED should be constantly on if the key is on. With mine, the green and red LEDs both come on when I turn the key to the on position, but the red one goes out after a few seconds.

123abc · 03-18-2009

Thats a really old pic of my car. Which fuse is what on that fuse block?

123abc · 03-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin_1G_Drummer

I'm pretty sure the green LED should be constantly on if the key is on. With mine, the green and red LEDs both come on when I turn the key to the on position, but the red one goes out after a few seconds.

On mine, both come on for a second or 2, then both go off.

Super Bleeder!! · 03-18-2009

No LED blink at key on: check power feed to Translator, check connections, check fuse.

RED LED is blinking: The MAF Translator has internal trouble codes that are blinked out using the RED LED

Green LED
OFF = idle
DIM = Part throttle/cruise (In RPM mode, the green LED turns on at 1000 RPM)
ON = MID

Red LED
OFF = No WOT modes are operating
DIM= WOT mode
ON = WOT mode and AUX Trigger is activated.

**JET** · 03-19-2009

I've got dibs on the fuel pump. Are you sure it is installed correctly? Even if there is fuel it may not be high enough pressure.

twack · 03-19-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

I've got dibs on the fuel pump. Are you sure it is installed correctly? Even if there is fuel it may not be high enough pressure.

it sucks on a fwd but im guessing this to

123abc · 03-19-2009

Is there a way to check the fuel pressure with the stock regulator in place?

Kevin 1G Drummer · 03-19-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

No LED blink at key on: check power feed to Translator, check connections, check fuse.

RED LED is blinking: The MAF Translator has internal trouble codes that are blinked out using the RED LED

Green LED
OFF = idle
DIM = Part throttle/cruise (In RPM mode, the green LED turns on at 1000 RPM)
ON = MID

Red LED
OFF = No WOT modes are operating
DIM= WOT mode
ON = WOT mode and AUX Trigger is activated.

Well there ya go. It's been a while since I looked at mine, and I thought I remembered the green one being on all the time. I guess I was wrong.

123abc · 03-19-2009

If it wasn't under enough pressure though, how come if I let the car sit for 5 seconds after trying to start it, and try starting it again, it stumbles and wants to start?

To me, it seems like I'm not getting enough spark or I'm getting too much fuel.