Evo X upgrades - Page 58

turbotalon1g · 07-15-2010

If you need a ride or something, or someone to cart back teh beater I'm usually around my list is getting smaller everyday so that means i have more free time to help out.

Good to hear its running

**mlomker** · 07-17-2010

Went over to Shawn's Dad's tonight. Installed the Torque Solutions driveshaft bushings, the o2 sensor, and some adjustable end-links for the rear sway.

As usual the o2 install resulted in both the o2 and the boost gauge not working. I guess I'll be fiddling with wiring, yet again.

Might be my imagination but those driveshaft bushings seems to have made shifting smoother. Even small improvements are noticeable since the 6 puck has made smoothness more difficult for me.

**scheides** · 07-18-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

Might be my imagination but those driveshaft bushings seems to have made shifting smoother. Even small improvements are noticeable since the 6 puck has made smoothness more difficult for me.

For sure man, less slop in the drivetrain! See how you like the rear diff bushings when they go in, they should help a bit too

**mlomker** · 07-18-2010

Got the gauges working. Now my front o2 keeps throwing CELs. Not sure what's up with that...did it the first time on my way home from DB a couple days ago. Always something.

**mlomker** · 07-19-2010

I have an appointment for Wed at Stellar Autoworks for corner balance, alignment, and Road Force balance on the tires. I went to their open house the other day...the owners seem nice.

I'm debating between -2/-1 and -2.5/-1.5 on the alignment. I'm leaning toward the former since I care more about road course than auto-x. I have a little time to ponder it.

simulatedwood · 07-20-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

I have an appointment for Wed at Stellar Autoworks for corner balance, alignment, and Road Force balance on the tires. I went to their open house the other day...the owners seem nice.

I'm debating between -2/-1 and -2.5/-1.5 on the alignment. I'm leaning toward the former since I care more about road course than auto-x. I have a little time to ponder it.

Depending on the tire pressures and how aggressive you drive will determine the "correct" number for car camber settings. The type of racing does not really matter for camber, the goal is even tire wear depending on how agressive a driver you are. No one wants to throw away a set of tires prematurely. I would focus on the rear toe and caster setting as this will determine how fast the car rotates. What are some of the track guys telling you?

**mlomker** · 07-20-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

Gonna daily drive it?

Not really. The car is no fun in stop-n-go and I won't drive it in the Winter, other than to a shop.

Quote:

Originally Posted by simulatedwood

What are some of the track guys telling you?

There isn't much agreement on the alignment threads other than a difference of 1 front to back. CBRD runs -1.8 and -1.

I'm surprised that you run -2.5 considering your long commute. Most people say that it'll wear the tires.

simulatedwood · 07-20-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

There isn't much agreement on the alignment threads other than a difference of 1 front to back. CBRD runs -1.8 and -1.

I'm surprised that you run -2.5 considering your long commute. Most people say that it'll wear the tires.

I showed you my tires, they have nice even tire wear @ 7000 miles most of that a 80 mile a day commute. Id say dont listen to all the interweb hype

2.5 is fine.

FattyBoomBatty · 07-20-2010

Gonna daily drive it?

**Murlo26** · 07-20-2010

^I agree, Robispec and some other very trusted people run -2.5/-1.5. That's what is on my car right now. But my biggest factor was trying to get as much as possible to fit my wheels, lol.

**mlomker** · 07-21-2010

The PLX gauges are a pain. They use a .NET app and it wasn't written to use Admin permissions on Vista but yet they try to write a file to C:\. So the app crashes with the flash memory wiped out. Nice. I spent an hour getting them back to defaults again. I think I still need to upgrade the sensor database on them because they are only half seeing the AFR/Boost sensors.

The NAV is acting like the GPS antenna is unplugged. Need to find a diagram for that.

I'm dropping the car off at Stellar at Noon for the corner balance/alignment. Good equipment and friendly guys, so hopefully they have some skill as well.

**Murlo26** · 07-21-2010

Wiring/electrical issues FTL!

Have you talked with Primo yet? Just curious how long they will take when they get the MAF flange...Bill@MAP said end of this week for those so I will probably drop that off on Monday or Tuesday to them hoping for something done by next friday. You can PM if you want. Did they ever give a price either?

**mlomker** · 07-21-2010

Stellar is keeping the car overnight. They gave me an `01 A4 to drive. That's kinda fun since I'd never driven an Audi.

**mlomker** · 07-22-2010

Picked the car up. It feels very different at -2.5 front, that's for sure.

I noticed that the black coating that Perrin put on my fmic has begun peeling off. Nice. I dropped them an email to see if they can do anything for me. Not sure how good of a fix rattle-can would be if other sections keep flaking off.

311evo · 07-22-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

Picked the car up. It feels very different at -2.5 front, that's for sure.

I noticed that the black coating that Perrin put on my fmic has begun peeling off. Nice. I dropped them an email to see if they can do anything for me. Not sure how good of a fix rattle-can would be if other sections keep flaking off.

Sand blast it and either do a good rattle job, or powder coat it. (Can you even successfully powder coat an fmic?)

**mlomker** · 07-22-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by 311evo

Sand blast it and either do a good rattle job, or powder coat it. (Can you even successfully powder coat an fmic?)

Perrin customer service is pretty quick. Their guy told me that it is a powder coat. My guess is that the surface wasn't prepped well enough, otherwise this big piece shouldn't have come off.

I'm going to take a pic to send them when I get home. I hope they swap it for a new one. $650 (or whatever) should look good for more than six months.

311evo · 07-22-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

Picked the car up. It feels very different at -2.5 front, that's for sure.

I noticed that the black coating that Perrin put on my fmic has begun peeling off. Nice. I dropped them an email to see if they can do anything for me. Not sure how good of a fix rattle-can would be if other sections keep flaking off.

Sand blast it and either do a good rattle job, or powder coat it.

edit, wtf I posted this twice.

**scheides** · 07-22-2010

Yay for badass alignments! Audis are fun too, but idk...evo is so much more fun!

**asshanson** · 07-22-2010

Why not do a thermal dispersant coating to release heat instead of keeping it in? Or anodize it. That is if Perrin won't do anything for you.

**scheides** · 07-22-2010

Zac had a black perrin FMIC and the same thing happened after like 6 months. He ended up just getting a silver/unpowdercoated one.