cant remove axel from hub.... need help! - Page 2

Matt D. · 12-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

did you try one of those hub pullers that bolts to the lug studs and pushes in on the axle? I find that those work great.

That's what he said in his first post. Nearly stripped it out.

We even applied a lot of heat to the hub after letting PB Blaster soak on it with no luck with either the puller or the sledge.

TalonFiero · 12-17-2010

Man those axles were annoying and I only spent a couple hours over there.

Don't you dare say Rosey's car has 80,000 miles!

**cmspaz** · 12-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

That's what he said in his first post. Nearly stripped it out.

We even applied a lot of heat to the hub after letting PB Blaster soak on it with no luck with either the puller or the sledge.

LOL, you better hope I'm there when you return it.

One thing you might try, I've used it with success on bolts, never on anything as big as an axle, would be to heat the axle and hub up a lot, then spray PB Blaster onto the axle, sometimes the quick change in temperature of one part and not the other is enough to break free some rust.

That's just crazy though, my Talon was never this bad.

Matt D. · 12-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmspaz

LOL, you better hope I'm there when you return it.

Haha, it's not that bad, still turns in and out just fine. We stopped before it was too late.

tpunx99GSX · 12-17-2010

i have a hub puller/Slide hammer if you need to borrow it. I used it on my sisters car and it worked great. Not sure how it will work on yours though.

Matt D. · 12-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by tpunx99GSX

i have a hub puller/Slide hammer if you need to borrow it. I used it on my sisters car and it worked great. Not sure how it will work on yours though.

If an 8 pound sledge hammer won't break it loose I doubt a slide hammer will do much good.

A//// Guy · 12-17-2010

I think its time to heat it up a bit. But if this is the part that slides into the hub, that may make the grease in the bearing cook.

Moar force.

tpunx99GSX · 12-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

If an 8 pound sledge hammer won't break it loose I doubt a slide hammer will do much good.

well the offer stands.
Is the hub getting cocked to one side or another? did the sledge hit at an angle by accident and cause the hub to drive into the axel causing it to be stuck? I wouldnt think rust would cause this much fuss.

Also, im pretty sure you are doing this, But do you have someone pushing the hub out while you are slamming it with the sledge? If your just hammering it, its not doing anything but driving the axel into the transmission.

C3L1CA · 12-17-2010

It will not matter if some one is pushing on the hub or not. The axle would have to move in order for it to pushing on the transmission.

I had this happen on both my dsm's. First one I just pulled the whole knuckle like you guys did and the damn thing wouldn't even press out. I had to get a whole new axle/hub setup. Actually same thing happened on my other car as well.

Just keep hitting it with PB blaster and try an air hammer. Eventually it SHOULD break loose.

**Halon** · 12-17-2010

Good example of why I don't drive my toy cars in the winter

Makes working on them a million times easier!

Matt D. · 12-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by tpunx99GSX

well the offer stands.
Is the hub getting cocked to one side or another? did the sledge hit at an angle by accident and cause the hub to drive into the axel causing it to be stuck? I wouldnt think rust would cause this much fuss.

Also, im pretty sure you are doing this, But do you have someone pushing the hub out while you are slamming it with the sledge? If your just hammering it, its not doing anything but driving the axel into the transmission.

Huh? We aren't hitting the hub, we're hitting the axle. The knuckle was bolted to the car in all places, it was being held firmly.

Regardless, the axles are out of the transmission.

tpunx99GSX · 12-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

Huh? We aren't hitting the hub, we're hitting the axle. The knuckle was bolted to the car in all places, it was being held firmly.

Regardless, the axles are out of the transmission.

i realise that. on dsms if you had everything unbolted and started smacking the axel on the end of it, (which the transmission side still in) all it would do is drill the axle into the tranny.
Again this was on a dsm, im not sure how evos look under there. have you taken the hub side boot off and axle out? so that all your hitting is the end of the axle? (btw those ends are surprizingly cheap to replace on dsms)

Matt D. · 12-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by tpunx99GSX

i realise that. on dsms if you had everything unbolted and started smacking the axel on the end of it, (which the transmission side still in) all it would do is drill the axle into the tranny.
Again this was on a dsm, im not sure how evos look under there. have you taken the hub side boot off and axle out? so that all your hitting is the end of the axle? (btw those ends are surprizingly cheap to replace on dsms)

Same difference, but it would still break it loose. We tried removing the knuckle from the strut and bracing the knuckle against the frame with no luck as well.

blackrosenova400 · 12-18-2010

These scenarios happen on a daily basis working on semi trucks for a living. You DO NOT want to heat up the axle at all unless you want to shock it. The point of using heat is to expand the metal, so you want to heat up on side of the hub as fast as you can. If you heat up the axle your just expanding the axle even worse.

Now the whole problem wth heating up the hub is the axle is in the inner race of the bearing. When you heat up the hub, your heating up the hub and outer race of the bearing, when we want the inner race to expand faster than the axle. This just wont happen heating the outside of the hub.

#1. Heat up the inner race with an acetylene torch as fast as possible, one side only of the inner race if you can get to it, I cant see it to tell if you can. Do this this while you have pressure on the shaft, and it should pop.

#2. I dont know how evo hubs are put together, but maybe you can take the bearing out with the axle, especially since the bearing is possibly shot now that heat has been applied to it. What holds the bearing in? Is it pressed in? You could then heat up one side of the hub as fast as you can and pull the bearing out with the axle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmspaz

LOL, you better hope I'm there when you return it.

One thing you might try, I've used it with success on bolts, never on anything as big as an axle, would be to heat the axle and hub up a lot, then spray PB Blaster onto the axle, sometimes the quick change in temperature of one part and not the other is enough to break free some rust.

That's just crazy though, my Talon was never this bad.

aaronspeed · 12-18-2010

Lets face it with all the hitting on the axle the bearing is toast anyways. You will be replacing the bearing and the stub axle by now. Remove the complete assy and press the axle out. I work on these cars with 200k miles on them all day and it is the fastest method.

TwoTalons · 12-18-2010

Had that problem with a front DSM hub/axle. Took it to a machine shop. Put it on a huge press and couldn't budge it. Rust welded. Tossed it and got another one. Hope you have better luck.